RB Killer 9
 

I've got about 7.5 gallons on my K9 and this has been a geat engine. I'm running it with a RB 2045/192 combo. I'm getting right at 10 min tanks in my RC8T. this engine hasn't had one leak the entire time. It been really competitive as far as I'm concerned. The only thing I did is add one thin shim.

The K9 has more bottom than the ws7 and c5/c6 motors. that being said, it's not the same quality. my k9 needs a new oring in the hsn and the crank is worn where the clutch bearings ride. It's only a 10 min motor if you are easy with the trigger where I could do 10 with my c6bbt regardless.

I'm looking at a new motor and all of RB's new lineup looks good lol. I drove a HB D8T with a classico 9 and it had crazy power...go figure an on road motor with a different head. I think in order to run the Pro Series the K9 can do it, but I'm tempted to try something like the Rally 10 or Classico 10. I just don't want to lose that strong bottom end.

any thoughts?

Hmmm I usually get the best fuel mileage on a tight technical track as long as there is traction. If you also notice you are lacking a little bottom to mid with the C6 in a buggy I think there is something else going on. What kind of a car are you running and what is the gearing you are running? I am a huge believer in gearing your car for the track as well as the engines power band as all engines are a little different. Your clutch setup is also going to be a factor in fuel mileage, you want it to engage hard enough to get you over jumps with short runs but you don't want the tires spinning either. Your fuel can also play a part in fuel mileage, what do you run for fuel?

More than any of the above factors the tune on the engine will be the greatest. Your LSN should be very close to flush on a good race tune, the HSN can range from just out from flush to just in from flush depending on weather, fuel, and elevation. I have seen a lot of people in buggy set the engine a little rich because it is easier to drive, this can work to a point but in a race situation your fuel economy is going to suffer from it.

The part number is 01082

looks like A-main has them in stock. It is the same head button the C6/B9/B10 uses so you can probably find one on ebay as well.

Funny that you say the D8T was fast with the on-road motor. The C6USA actually uses an on-road crankshaft with the standard C6 piston and sleeve and it is a beast in a truggy. The on-road motors are designed for all out power for a car with a TON of traction so it can be a pretty violent power band in an off-road car.

The K9/10 engines have a pretty aggressive timing on the crankshaft somewhat similar to what an on-road engine would use, the B10 is not as aggressive but like you said it also gets better fuel mileage. If you really do like the K9 a lot I would say get yourself a new K10 and stick with what you like.

I´ve bought a used mbx6 with K9 and Rb 2045 Reso.

Can anyone tell me how I can see if I have a 192 or 198 manifold? Which one works better?

The easiest way to tell is look for numbers on the header it's self. It is most likely a 192 header as the combos all come with 192 headers and the 2045 pipe combo comes with 192. Unless they purchased the header and pipe separate you should have a 192.

that's the best way to describe the classico 9, a violent powerband even with a 6.5 restrictor! I really liked how it felt a lot stronger than my k9 on bottom and top, but not as smooth. most of the time was 1/4 throttle to clear even big jumps. on a loose track it would be a handful for sure.

Good info Chris, I was confused with all the new models. now to decide b/w the two or both.

Ok guys, The K9 is an excellent engine teamed up with the 2045 pipe and 192 header......ran it for the first time today in a race situation and had no tuning issues at all and had really decent power considering that it only had about 8 tanks through it before I started the day...so it is still in the running it slightly rich stgae....next weekend I will get to lean it out a little more and realy start to see the power come in:D

RB Killer 9 with RB 2045/192 pipe combo
 

I can never embed videos!!

what is the part number for the c6usa crank
i lost my manual and i want to rebuild it

1164-14B/R or 1164-14/R It's the same crankshaft they just added the B for the parts listing for the buggy engine. This may be very very hard to find because these were Rody modified cranks and he has not been there for quite some time.

all of the RB 10 engines are in stock at www.absolutehobbyz.com
:nod:

im looking to get the rb hobby 9 5 port engine , which i know replaced the s5
im gone to use it. on my truggy whould the, jp3 pipe work good on this engine?

i dont have enough for a rb pipe, also is a 5 port more of a top end engine and less bottom or both? if the jp3 doesnt, work good than would the jp1 or jp2 work better?

and also i race on a techinal big outdoor track.

You would be better off with a 086 pipe, rather than the JP pipes, JP's tend to run hotter than most, and fuel mileage isn't as good. The 5 port, is more of a bottom end engine, it will run well in a truggy, if you get a Dynamite 086 pipe and manifold are about 50 bucks.

anybody know?

Funny that you say the D8T was fast with the on-road motor. The C6USA actually uses an on-road crankshaft with the standard C6 piston and sleeve and it is a beast in a truggy. The on-road motors are designed for all out power for a car with a TON of traction so it can be a pretty violent power band in an off-road car.

I stumbled onto a C6 USA and a 192/2045 combo for 50 bucks. It needed a p/s/r. I didn't even want it cuz at the time i only ran speeds. So i rebuilt it and had it massaged by Uriah and all i can say is it's one bad ass engine. Haven't ran it much since break in, enough to be quite happy with it. Too bad they aren't made anymore. When i get bored with my EB Mods nova fms the RB is going in. Life is good.

If you have the patience to tune the jp3 in im sure you can make it work. The s5 seems to run a tad hot no matter what pipes on it to get good power out of it that i found other than 9886 or 086. Next step is runtime and not running too lean then too hot. My guess is you will get 8-8.5 min a tank in truggy with jp3.

The 086 with short double bend is awsome for buggy but may lack torque a bit for truggy although not sure cause iv never ran an s5 in a truggy. To be honest i can see the s5 with jp3 in truggy working just fine...just watch temps.

With the rb pipe in buggy i was never satisfied. temps were hot and runtime was low. Actually about the same as what i can see a jp3 maybe being yet i never ran a jp3 on an s5. I did try a jp4 and it worked well. I tried a jp1 for a couple tanks too after a freind(quite a while ago)said put one on it cause its an rb and jp1 ran well on his c6 haha. Well the s5 and c6 are totally 100%diff:lol:

The S5 with 086 pipe will work fine in truggy, you will not loose any torque, it'll scream, years back ,I ran the GO 5 port with the 086 pipe, in a truggy, it used to pull wheelies on power!

ok cool il try the 86 pipe on it than , it saves me money lol.
so il still have enough bottom end for the truggy? the 86 pipe i have has the, stock header on it im not sure if its a long or short header. a longer header will give you more torque right?

correct. long header more bottom and short more top

You know nothing :lol:

ok i forget to mention that i race ,on a big outdoor track that is techinal .
im not sure if the 86 pipe, has enough torque for them kind of turns .

i whould think the jp3 whould. since its a combation pipe.
so your saying the this, engine will run hot with the jp-3 pipe?

The 086 pipe is your best choice if you cannot get the RB 2045. I personally ran a 086 pipe on the S5 and it worked well. The Jp pipes IMO are not suited well for any RB engine and yes they do run hot with them.

ok cool . do you think though that, the 86 pipe has enough torque for the truggy? at the track i was talking about that i race at?

Ya your fine my home track is the Nitro Pit which is big and technical. I ran the S5 in my Xray Truggy for a couple of weekends and it was fine. If you feel your not getting enough punch mess with the clutch springs/shoes until it feels good.

ok yea i seen the nitro pit is a bad ass track, and the turns are a bit similar to where i race at. yea im running a all alum, clutch setup so i guess i should have enough punch plus, im running a stiff clutch springs also . not the stiffest though.

Yes, but I try nothing also!:lol:

It is too bad they aren't made anymore. I have not tried the engine in buggy but in a truggy it flies and still goes 12:30-13:00 minutes on a tank. I can go a little longer with the standard C6 but the extra power is nice!!

They are not made, but they are still available. All of the parts are interchangeable with the B9, which is still made.

We are talking about the C6USA, this engine came with a Rody modified crankshaft, and head button. It's MUCH more than a C6 or a B9 as far as performance is concerned.

Everything is interchangeable but putting a B9/B10 crank in it will really change the powerband of the engine. If you have the USA engine already and the crank is in good shape drop a new piston sleeve and rod set in there and be set!!

I don't believe you understand what Uriah meant. It won't be a B9/B10 crank when he's done with it. I've never seen an RB run like a Murnan modded one. Trust me. Now i hafta run mine sat, can't stand it anymore.

how much difference is there between the 1164-14B and the 1164-14B/R crankshaft

I can see that is missing the counter weight and coating, but are the intake and turbo cuts the same?

http://www.mst-modellbau.de/motoren-...prod_2644.html

1164-14B is a designed offroad crankshaft that has a tungsten weight in it, that is all that is done to that crankshaft from a standard C6 crank.

1164-14R also has the weight in it and like you mentioned it has the coating on it but the opening on the crankshaft for fuel entry is opened up a lot, it is an onroad crankshaft so it's open sooner and stays open longer. Also the middle of the crank that funnels the fuel to the turbo cuts is opened up more, the turbo cuts are also cut in deeper on the face of the crank. The timing of this crank makes the engine seem pretty violent but I love it in a truggy!!!

It looks like the site your looking at might be showing the wrong pic with the part number. Look at the last two on this page. http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...x=0&image2.y=0

C6 is a beast!
 

I just bought a slightly used C6 from a buddy for my XT8. The motor has less than a gallon on it, and it is a beast. The problem I have is that I keep burning up clutch bearings. I am running the Xray alum 3 shoe setup, and I feel that I have more than enough play on the clutch bell. I can't make it thru a race day without changing clutch bearings. Anybody have any good ideas??

so my question is. seeing you cant but these rody cranks anymore. would you buy this crank and open the turbo cuts and throat up more?

tko clutch bearings the best, get them.

Well the only thing on the engine that would cause clutch bearing issues would be the crankshaft being worn out where the clutch bearings ride. When you pull the clutch bearings off feel the end of the crankshaft, it should be nice and smooth. If there is only a gallon on the engine this really should not be the case tho. If you have a clutch that really slips a lot and gets really hot that will kill bearings. If your gear mesh is too tight that can also kill bearings with all the chassis flex.

I think that would be the best option if you have access to equipment to do it, or if you have a modder that does a lot of crank work like that. It's not a drastic mod it's just opened up quite bit.

I think those cranks might still be able to purchase but they are expensive really expensive.

Don, the Shark 9 looks killer......time to break it in tomorrow:sneaky::D