More nitro will make your engine run cooler, you will have more power, and you will use more fuel. Adding Oil to your fuel will make your engine run hotter. Yes it may lubricate more but it will create more heat.

I appreciate the comment...thank you. I gave my experience, if you have a different point of view, express it. Don't just call my way bullshit and run. Play nice boys and girls.:cool:

By the way, I run at high altitude and run 40% or 50% nitro. Have an RB with many gallons of high nitro run thru it and no failures. Engine life depends on the owner changing filters and tuning the engine.

Chris, you posted in between while I was writing. I was using 30% Sidewinder and couldn't get my motors running right, even blowing a on road RB classico 10. I switched to 20% with a ounce of caster and my temps went down 20-30 degrees and I didn't pop another rod.

I don't dought you, but I've had a different experience with 30%. I've asked for help on this forum because I don't know as much as most. The advice I've gotten helped me, and I've passed it on. If it's wrong and doesn't work for others, bad on me.

Sorry bro...didn't intend to be rude !

Adding oil increases heat...running 30% nitro does not wear an engine any faster, in fact engines should last longer... tuning is also easier on 30%... 30% requires you to run a richer mixture then 20%< which means more lubrication passes thru engine, also because 30% makes more power the needles do not need to be leaned down as far .......All in all I have best results with 30% nitro..... 20% does give better mileage and costs less money tho....

Its a very touchy thing this feul subject, no harm done.

I'm heading to Arizona in Febuary for some kind of big nitro race. Jim from Fuzion x Motorsports will be there, I'm hoping to learn how to better tune motors from him.

I actually run the Sidewinder Purple Strike Team fuel. That is what I have 50% of. The application I read you were running the engine in sounded much more like an extreme on-road situation. If your running at very high sustained RPM's like that your going to need to have your tune PERFECT and yes the extra castor will help you. As for the Nitro... well many onroad guys run the lowest possible Nitro so they can make runtime during a qual. otherwise they run out of fuel trying to run 30%. Also if you are running constant high RPM's you should look into changing your rod every couple of gallons. I know a lot of the on-road guys talk about adding castor to a lot of the newer fuels because they are just too low in castor for their liking at sustained high RPM's. You might get some good advice in the Nitro On-Road Engine section about this stuff as well.

But in General more nitro is going to cool the engine more. Higher Oil content will increase the heat. Your drop in temps was more than just the nitro reduction. Changing fuel changes your tune in many ways as they don't all use the same oils in the same percentages.

So is the shim rule put 1 0.1mm shim for every 5% increase in nitro over 25%? Also, after some more digging I discovered that the piston/sleeve/con rod in the Shark 10 is the same as the Buggy 11 engine, but I don't see it available for sale anywhere.......any thoughts? :confused:

Honestly you should be just fine to run 30% with the stock engine shimming. You can add the .1mm shim to help the breakin process go a bit easier but there will be no problem pulling it out after breakin is complete. If your going to run more than 30% then you should start adding shims.

As for the P/S/R I am not sure where you can get that set. I would think A-Main should have them available soon if they are out right now. Many of RB's engines use the same piston sleeve and rod.

Thanks for the reply Chris. I will likely keep it stock for now...I'm assuming the Buggy11 is a relatively new engine, so maybe spare parts aren't available yet? I'll keep my eyes peeled:eek:

Can someone confirm bearing size of the Shark 10?

Front: 7 x 19 x 6
Rear: 14 x 25.8 x ???:confused:6?

I would like to grab a set of ceramics for down the road...

Thanks fellas!!;):tire::tire:

Anyone??:confused:

Hey man sorry I was racin yesterday. You are correct on the size of bearings that you need.

Thanks Chris!!....kinda what I thought, just making sure!! ;):tire::tire:

Chris what do you recommend for a buggy engine from the RB Line-up? Usually medium size tracks. No blue groove where I live.

Don't know what is coming down the pipe.

Pipe and Header as well please.

Thanks

For a medium size track and not grooved up I would run the X11 with the 2045 pipe and short 198 header. If you can only get the engine with the new 2087 pipe combo that will work as well. If you already have a 2058 pipe sitting around give that a try as well!!

If you were choosing a all around engine what would you pick and pipe.header. Traveling would require a engine that can do it all.

Thinking B11?

Anybody know where a p/s/r for C6/B9/B10 is in stock?

Yo ham. I checked all my stuff last night and I don't have a P/S/R set anymore. I will call Jim today and see if they have any in stock there.

The B11 is a lot of engine. Yes it's fast and performs well all around. Unless you have a track with a really long straight I don't think you will notice a big difference. The B11 is going to make more power but that can also get you in more trouble at times too. The X11 feels a lot like the Shark9 with is one of my favorite engines ever!!! Drop a ceramic bearing in the X11 and it screams and gets great economy, but still not quite the power of the B11. So if it's the power your after the B11 would be it.

Thanks Chris.

Thanks Chris! I'm just looking at my options and make a decision. Looking at B11/X11 or Fusion X7. Jim will get my business no matter what. Still using my Crono RS5. The last RB I owned was the original WS7 and I struggled with that carb to get it just right. I know the new ones are very good. A friend bought a Rally 9 and put it in his son's Mugen Truggy and he was extremely surprised and very happy.

Looking forward to the RB engine warmer.

Thanks for your input.

Will a Nova 9901 or a Dynamite 053 work well with an X11?

Both pipes will work on the X11 fairly well. I would say the 9901 would be better tho.

Hey CP! Nice work this weekend man! Hope all is well in D town...;)

Thanks man!! All is well here, but the season is coming to an end :mad:

How's it going up North?

The track in Burlington for this race was awesome!!!! Here is a short vid of one of the qual rounds man. You gota make it back out one day :nod:

+ YouTube Video

Will definately try and get to State next year! It would be good to see everybody again! Ok... Sorry for the thread hijack! Take care!

K10
 

Thought i would add my experience with RB engines.
Bought myself a K10 for my buggy as it was a great price with good reviews. I will say now i have only run Novarossi in my buggy but was always interested in RB as they are a very similar engine. So far i am very impressed with the performance of this engine. Its a screamer. It tunes very well, no mid needle but its not really needed anyway. Im running it with an RB 2045 pipe. It produces a lot of power and as a result i have run a bigger clutch gear (15T) as it pulls it so easily, and the engine tunes so well you can use variable throttle for long periods (not full or full brake) with no issues of fuel loading up, or stalling. So now i have a buggy with more top speed potential and more throttle control due to the very precise carb.
I have only run about 9 tanks through it, so i cant really comment on life span, but, i can say it still has a pinch when dead cold between sleeve and piston, which is a good sign.
Comparing to Novarossis is a hard task for any engine, but so far it looks good. My experience with Novarossi has been all positive. Amazing life span when looked after, best i have ever seen. In fact, i run an old Novarossi BX21SBK01 short stroke in an old Ofna Dominator truck still to this day and it holds tune and pulls very hard! Lots of comp. It also pulls a bigger clutch gear than the stock truck came with (i have a video on youtube of the Ofna running it if anyone is interested ;)
Sorry for the long post, but, if your on this thread looking for info on RB engines i feel i got something to add.
Cheers.

Hello guys ...

What RB model is more like NOVA PLUS4?


There is much difference between the X10 and X11?

Thank you, sorry my bad english: D

The X11 would be the closest RB to a +4 IMO.

The only difference between the X10 and X11 is the crankcase and the etching on the cooling head. I put a ceramic bearing in the X11 I have and it really woke the engine up and the fuel economy improved as well.

Chris,
I thought of buying a GO GXII 5RHO, you have some experience with this engine? It is stronger than X11?

I like the engine smooth and balanced, with good bottom end and top end. also fuel economy

I'm in doubt between three engines.
RB X11
GO GXII
B6 Werks

tks!

I have not even seen a new GO run in person only in videos. I myself am just a believer in the old saying of you get what you pay for. Sure almost all engines you get these days are going to make good power. My RB's all last me 12-15 gallons of fuel, many times I run an engine for an entire season and let another racer run it the following season.

Of course you need to do what you feel most comfortable with so make sure you get what your wallet allows, times are tough these days. I have always felt the carb is where you see the biggest difference between a $200 engine and a high dollar engine. I don't think it's a coincidence that OS, and Novarossi manufactured engines are the high dollar engines, and those seem to be the two carbs people always use on the low buck engines when they start having problems.

Again this is just my opinion and there are thousands of people out there who have awesome luck with the cheaper engines.

Hi friends someone has tried this product rb, is useful and what exactly improves, we need another type of flywheel and clutch.
Thank you.

Most flywheels, like the serpent 811 and the losi 8, have this bearing gaurd already incorperated in the flywheel. Look at this picture, that flang under the flywheel does the same job.

http://www.serpent.com/product/600298/

That engine protect actually helps protect even better than the flywheels that cup the engine case. The engine protect fits very snug where it would take small sand to get back in there. I run the Losi flywheel and the front bearing stays much cleaner with the engine protect than without it.

Thanks your advice is very good buy this product.

Chris, thank you!

I'm happy with my ws9, 6 gallon and this like new.

Most want an upgraded engine and do not like to motor with brute force, I am worried about not finding a lot of spare parts for engines. But see that an engine takes 10.15 gallons, worth more than change the engine reform it.

I'll buy a X11, and install ceramic bearings as you indicated. Pipe 2045 + 192 it runs fine?


Once again thank you for your help!

Yep it will run great with that header and pipe combo. If you do have other pipes laying around you can always try those as well. The Orion 2058 works great on them as well. I have never been a big fan of any of the JP line of pipes on an RB but some people really like those pipes so it's all what feels best to you.

As far as parts..... RB no longer has the square stroke engines like the WS9 you have so basically all of the offroad engines except the K series are interchangeable when it comes to parts. bearings, rods, pistons, sleeves, cranks, and carbs will all work with one another. Of course the crank and the sleeve are going to change the characteristics of the engine if you end up using one from one of the other models.

Question about shims for break in
 

I'll be breaking in my RB soon. I know if I run 30% I'm supposed to add a shim..My question is should I remove the shim after the break in process or should it stay in there??:confused::eek:

b11 carb settings
 

Hi everyone,
I just finished breaking in my new b11 and I am wondering if anyone can give me a ball park on the carb settings for race tune.
Thanks,
Mark