only thing different is your ws7 would put my s5 in the dirt lol. id see parts of the track(or off track) thats unchartered with a ws7. do your temps go over 235?

Hello Midnight,
I ordered them directly from the RB importer in Texas. I work at my local hobbyshop and I do the RB orders for him. I was told they should be on their way from France very soon. I got four on order. I will let everybody know when we get them in.

Thanks bro.

8&stuff, I think I had temps up to 255. That usually happens when the tank is empty and leaning out. I will see the temp vary from the morning to evening. Might touch the needle mid day.

right on. sounds similar here

when i ran my s5 with jp4 it was rockin. i ran it for 3 tanks at crcrc about a month ago. i got off the stand after a 7 minute heat and several minutes of practice so tank was about empty and temp was 260 exactly. i walked out of pits and another guy running a couple c6's said it smelled hot and to put a jp1 on it. well the jp1 was crap. it could make jumps but no top end and i didnt have time to tune so i switched to jp4 for main. last weekend i ran a re11 and it was pushing 270+ degrees. the smooth powerband on an rb is hard to get used to after running vspec type engines.

How much difference in run time would I get with a 6.5mm restrictor instead of a 8.mm one in a WS7 II ? I have the 8.mm now and only get a little over 6 min. I know my pipe is a gas hog (JP-3) and will be changed soon to a 2045, but I need runtime now? I am going to add another filter and some fuel line, but need to make a 7 min heat, so I am looking to gain another min. or so.
Thanks Joe

Well, after chasing a tune for over a week I decided I'd go to the track today anyway. I had some good guys helping try to find the tune. We would find what we thought to be a good idle, and good bottom end, put it down on the ground for a few minutes and it would start to lean out and struggle to move at all. After about 30 seconds, it would get this horrible lean bog at half throttle or more. It would spit tons of smoke for those 30 seconds, then there would be a lot less, and the temps would soar up above 260. Same problems I've been having for a long time now. It got to the point that the bottom end was out so far that it just didn't make any sense to keep going. Then one of the guys noticed that the o-ring that sits at the top of the carb neck had been pushed out and was no longer seated in between the case and the carb. I couldn't explain this as the engine had never been taken apart. At that point we just assumed that was the problem, an air leak at that point. I packed everything up and spectated for a few hours.


On the way home I stopped at Canadian Tire(Department store specializing in automotive, outdoors and tools/hardware) and picked up some gasket sealer. I began to take the engine apart and quickly realized that there was in fact, still an intact o-ring on the carb neck. The o-ring wrapped around the case below the carb is beyond me. I noticed as I took the engine off the chassis that there was a puddle of raw fuel under the engine mounts, and a steady stream of it coming from the front bearing/crank area.


I guess the big question is, could my bearing be leaking THAT BAD as to render my engine completely and utterly un-tunable and incapable of holding a tune/not leaning out regardless of settings? It's weird, the engine is not very old, and has not seen much fuel. Less than a gallon, still.

I had to change the front bearing in S5 after about 2 gallons. It was leaking pretty bad but it wasn't really causing my tune to lean out. I would say change it if for no other reason than the mess it makes.

Did you turn the fuel inlet where the main needle is? If yes you gotta be careful to turn the whole assembly. If you turn it and mis-align one of the soft gaskets it will leak. This will look like a front bearing leaking but it is really the main needle assembly. This is very common.

Anyone know if the S3 L2G runs well with a Dyn 086 pipe? I know the 3 port Nova does and thought the S3 might be similar. I don't have the 2045 pipe I've seen recommended for the engine. I need to go through my pipes, but I have a couple of old RB's and I think one of them is similar to the 2045 (2020 maybe?). Thanks.

The 086 pipe is good for most all engines, just kinda an all around pipe, the 2045 works well with the RB engines best, the best fuel economy also, IMO, the 2020 will work well, but it is mostly a bottom end pipe, works well on shorter tracks, header for the RB pipes make a difference also, the 192 header is top end, the 198 header is bottom end.

I just took the main needle assembly apart to see what you mean. If I'm understanding correctly, you're talking about the two metal gaskets that sit between the fuel inlet piece and the needle housing, and between the inlet piece and the carb barrel? I fiddled with it and it seems as though the gaskets actually thread onto the needle housing and if not adjusted correctly, could leave a gap between the inlet piece and gaskets causing a leak.

Am I on the right track here?


I don't recall ever taking it apart, but it certainly seems a possibility for the source of my leak. Especially considering the amount of fuel there was under the engine mounts.

I think I've got it adjusted so there's no possibility for a leak from the inlet now. Should I reassemble and reinstall my engine and try it out, see if my problem is solved?

Yes, it is a pretty common problem if you turn the fuel inlet. It looks like a front bearing is leaking, but since the inlet is right over the bearing this can be missed. Those little washers can be filed smooth again or get new ones. After reassembling put some of that black airseal stuff all the way around those two areas.

What is a good pipe for the RB WS7??

JP4 is a great pipe

My JP-3 is only getting 6 1/2 min. a tank, and my JP-1 is about 7 1/2.
That's with a 8mm carb restrictor and running at 235-240*
I am selling them and getting a RB2045 with a 192 header, from what I have heard that will get me over 10min a tank and run about 225* with the same needle settings!
IMO a JP-4 on a WS7II would not have any bottom end!

I don't think the JP-4 would kill the bottom end of the WS7.

It already has tons on its own and would just calm it down a little and give you more top. Depending on the track size the JP-4 can be a great pipe and helps with fuel mileage as well.

Anyone know if the L2G head from a s5 will fit on old head c6bb?

16% nitro
 

hi,
i'm thinking of switching to 16% nitro for my ws7 and c6, anyone tried?
i gotta remove 0.1mm head shim right?

seems like nobody uses 16% for .21 and above engines, any reasons? :)

any one run the c6 on a truggy if so how is it

I got my c6 usa broke in.It toke a while and last i was at the track i started to race tune it.Im running it with the jp4 and the thing runs like a raped ape but im thinking the jp4 may be hurting it more then anything.Does anyone know if i can/should run the jp4 manifold with the rb 2045 or is there anymore recomendations?
Thanks

2045 with 192 will be your best bet for the c6. :nod:

Not as much power, hotter temps than 20 and 30%. These engines can easily handle 30% fuel.

What kind of run times are you starting to get with your USA? Buggy or truggy? I know its still new but......

About 7 min take it for what its worth the as she is not race tuned yet still spiting a little gas on bottom.Its supose to get more the regular c6 but ill see whenever it stops raining here.Rained for like a week allready:cry:

Anyone knows whether RB will open up the forum section?
Tried emailing them with no reply.

You might want to try a Dynamite 007 HT, I am running a modded S7 with
WS7 crank ( basically a WS7 ), Bryons RACE 25% Gen 2 and I am easily getting 10+ minutes on different tracks I have raced at. This is in my
Losi 8ight 2.0 buggy. Temps from 200-230f

has anyone compaired the the RB 3001 pipe to the 2045 pipe
i want to get a new pipe andim wondering if its worth getting the new pipe to keep in line with the EFRA rules we run here

I own a RB C6 BB L2G with a 192 and 2045Exhaust, but I'm having trouble finding the right carb settings.

When I use the stock settings (HSN : 3.5 turns from closed, Idle : 5 turns from closed), I don't know which setting for the LSN to use. Should it be flush ?

Or could someone post their carb settings, So i can see where I have to 'aim' at.. I'm desperate :nod:

Sorry for my crap english, it's not my mother tongue ;-)

if you look at the c6 manual carefully, RB refers to the LSN when they say idle...
adjust yr LSN to 5 and yr idle gap to about 0.7-1mm...:nod:

and tune from there.

I have a WS7 and have done a full rebuild on it .
The engine is really sluggish down low and then hits a power band at half revs .
It flames out all the time .
It has new bearings and the carbi and back plate is sealed .
Plenty of pinch and compression as it is new .
WHAT IS WRONG , PLEASE HELP :confused:

Ok, thanks. Will try :)

Try a hot plug too. Nova's C5 or O'Donnel's 77

Update on my c6 usa spec got the thing tuned to run at 225-230 and im getting about 11 Min of run time.Thats with a jp4 pipe im going to try to get the 2045 to see if it gets better:nod: Thing is sweet:)

what pipe set you're using? when does it flame out?
maybe yr LSN is not tune right? ;)

lastly, could be yr clutch setup too...

Glowplug. As stated, try anything hot.

I'm using the RB 2045 pipe with the 198 header combination
I tried an OS P3 plug , it helped a lot but still the same end result
It can flame out at any time , mainly in the pits . to get it running and keep it running when it is cold is a nightmare .:cry:

OS P3 plug is not a good choice for any RB engine. Try turbo Odonnell 97 or RB 5.
If it flames out during pit stop 99% of the time with ws7 or C6 the bottom end is to lean. Really have to run RB's on rich side on Bottom end. When you say it was hard to keep running when it is cold. The C6 & ws7 should get up to temp of 180 or so very quickly if they do not they are not tuned right. I have ran C6's at the Nitro Pit in AZ when it was 110 degrees in the summer and ran the same C6 in So Cal when it was 55 degrees and tuning was changed an hour or 2 on top and temps where exactly the same. Just have to find the sweet spot on the Carb.

I just got a phone call from my LHS, 09's have come in!!! Im going to pick up my "Hobby" 5 port after I am done work.:smile: