AZ,
thanks for the page. i had seen that but looked over the factory settings on the 2nd page. I guess I was looking for more info when I read through that quickly.
I ended up pulling the K10 out of my chassis and reinstalled my other engine. I just don't have the time this week to really tune this motor in before saturday.
I still think the LSN is to lean(number of turns from closed), but I can't get it to run right any fatter then 2 turns from close. It wont even fire if its more then 3 turns open from close. To get it to accelerate with a little bit of load (read acceptable here)after 10 to 15 seconds of idle, the bottom end wants to be about 1.5 turns from closed. Can anyone tell me what their race settings are for there LSN and HSN? I know i will have to adjust it slightly for best performance but 5 tanks of fuel and its still not correct is killing me time wise. I want to try to tune it after racing saturday if time permits.

Reset your idle air gap at .5mm. Then you will find that four
turns out out on the low speed needle is still at little rich, so
lean it some from there. Running the idle air gap at .7mm to
.8mm will cause you problems. The one thing you will really
notice if the idle air gap is too much is a two stage idle down,
after a wide open throttle run.
Also, as far as pipes go, try a Jammin JP-3 pipe out on that
engine. I know, even I don't care much for the JP line of pipes
on any engine I own. But the JP-3 really wakes this engine up
and the engine temps didn't jump up twenty degrees, like I have
noticed happens on other engines. I never liked the 2045 pipe
on an engine that I've ran it on, RB's included. I have always
found someting better, without sacrificing much run time.

I have a the europa s7 in my truggy, still could use a little more bottom end.I have 2 different carb restrictors, I'm running the larger one.I was wondering if I can run it without a restrictor to gain a little power.

Sorry to bug this thread, but i am looking for an old first gen. RB WS7.

Please e.mail me at [email protected]

Thanks.

You will get worse fuel mileage going without carb restrictor, what clutch bell, spur gear are you running? Also what is your clutch h set up? Shoes? Springs? And what pipe and header are you using?

jp4 pipe,alumium shoes,1.0 springs(i tried to put 1.2 springs but couldn't get them on)I know this pipe is 4 mid to high rpm,its just the pipe i had and didn't want to send extra on pipe.

Are the shoes hard aluminum, 7075? You can also go with a taller spur gear, lighter diff oils, change pipes, what fuel Nitro content are you using? There's a ton of things you can do, nothing that will be free, so, its up to you how you want To get there.

Question please,

I've run 3/4 of a gallon in my Shark 10, o'donnels 20% RACING FEUL. My motor was always hitting 200-240 during the race, but on my last run I hit 284. With the engine cool and the plug out, it was still a little tight at TDC and it clicked, but I was able to turn it over by hand. With the plug in, it still had compression but no piston friction at TDC.

Is my motor done, or do I need to replace the piston sleeve rod?

You should be fine!!! I have run my engines up to 280 or more at times and they have been fine.... Just not the kind of thing you want to make a habit out of. Just keep running it, when it will no longer hold an idle and it seems to die a lot is when you will need a new P/S/R

Thank you Chris

Chris, aznitronut, and all you masters of RB Engines

I would like to know which piston i should get for my RB B10 engine, I broke the piston, i cant find any shops that carry a b 10 piston so I guess its going under another name or ?? and i have a race on Sunday!! ...

Best Regards

Daniel

Well I would not suggest changing just the piston. When you change those you should change the piston, sleeve, and rod.

1146-53 is the part you want.

1146-33 will work but is the X10/X11 so it is only 3 port, not 5 port like your B10.

1143-7 will also work but is a 7 port not a 5 port.

Thanks for the fast reply,

Well even though I have only had around 5 liters through the engine?

Daniel

The piston and sleeve fit is a very precise fit. I don't think the pistons are even sold separately... have to get at least a piston and sleeve.

Allright, and could you tell me what the difference in character is for the two other p/s/r (1146-33 and 1143-7) ,
compared to my B10? 1146-53.

1146-33 is going to be less all around power that what your B10 was.

1143-7 will be close to the same power of your B10 with more top RPM power and possibly a little less bottom end than what you were running. You will most likely get a little worse fuel mileage with this as well.

Im getting a x10 next week would a jp3 work intill i get enough funds for the 2045 pipe also i heard the 2013 siro works well for this engine. Any info on performance would be cool.Im looking for a smooth engine that can rev to moon.

The JP3 will probably be ok to get ya started but your fuel mileage will not be very good. The 2013 isn't gona be the pipe you want if you want high revs... you probably want the 2045 or a 086 pipe of some sort. I have been running my X11 with the 2045 and it has been great. Not quite as much power as the B11 but still plenty.

OK Chris, thanks again for the help and expertise!!

Best regards

Daniel

I took the restrictor out and ran it,I really think the problem was I was just running it to fat.I lean it out, still had good smoke and it ran good.I'll put one of the restrictors back in if I can't make 6 min. without it.The motor has got 1.5 gallons ran threw it since ceramic bearing and pinch so maybe it was still breaking in.Thanks for the help.

I ended up running the smallest restrictor i had and leaned it out.It had plenty of power for my driving skills.

DO THEY STILL MAKE RB 728 and a 928 motors or the inner parts my 929 looks pretty good needs resized who would be good at this job ??:nod:

Check out RayAracing engine service. He is also buddies with
Mark from PowerHouse. I sent you a PM with more info.

Finding a P/S/C for a B10
 

Hey guys,

Anyone know how to get a hold of this item? Is it the same as the B11? Local hobby store can't get ahold of it, and AMAIN always on BO.

Thx,
Lucas

The B10 and B11 sleeve are not the same. The B11 has a smaller exhaust port than the B10 does. It will work and fit just fine, but it won't run exactly like it did with the B10 P/S/R.

Just wondering if I would be losing something with the B11 P/S/R? Is there a way I could machine the exhaust port to normal size?

You could have an engine modder change that exhaust port if you like. The smaller exhaust port makes the engine better on fuel with a little less power.

Can anyone suggest a starting setup, ie venturies, pipes fuel etc.....for oval on road. I blew my classico 10 last race, granted there was something wrong with the engine to start, I don't want to go through the same s#!% again. I kept it at 230 max temp.

I'm running 20% odonnels speed blend with extra caster oil.

Any advice would be great.

did the rod bushing go out ?

The rod didn't just go, it disapeared. After I opened it up I saw the sleeve locator pin had been broken, probably from manufacturing mistake. So the sleeve was off by a couple of mm and seized at the exaust port. All that being said I don't know if serprnt 966 is made for high speed oval. I was averaging 96 kph, the track was 500 m and I was pulling 7 second laps.

So you had her a buzzin eh !!!

any idea of the RPM you were turning ? I am not familiar with the car at all

I'm sorry to hear about your engine coming apart, but I am glad to
hear about how it met it's demise. I to, push my nitro engines to
their limits on a huge dirt oval track. I've learned to fatten to hi-
speed needle up some to keep them from coming apart. Pulling the
back plates off of the engines to check the con rod bushing, after
each of what we call "Rod Stretchin Action" runs, is a must. Like I tell my
engine modder, "hey, if she comes apart she comes apart. I know
I was pushing it way to hard in the first place".

I always get a laugh when one of the, blip-blipity-blip, off-road guys
post that his engine threw a con rod at or near the two gallon mark.
After all, he stated that he had done the proper six tank break-in,
hammered the engine at the track the next day and never heard of
pulling the back plate to check the con rod bushing after evrey gallon
of fuel has been ran through it. :lol:

Hell, I thought if you hold it WOT, that's how you get a long stroke!:D

I have to admit it was fun while it lasted, but seeing that I am not sponsored and I pay for my engines, I am in no mood of popping a engine at every race.

Ahh!, I just know that you won't quit. Add one or two teeth to your
gearing and go for it, again. I've thought about converting a 966 into
a GT car, but my buddys said my DM1'S were fast enough. Instead,
I'll be getting a belted GT car out of Europe next. As far as off-road goes,
I guess I'll be running Serpents next year. So, you know that there
will be one getting a dirt oval conversion on the workbench soon.
I may have to slap a two-speed on it and run some asphalt too.
By the way where is that big asphalt oval located ?

The track is at Sanair speedway in St-pie Quebec. Its a full size car track and they used to do pro karting. Since karting stopped going ther they turned them to RC on road. They have 1/8 and 1/5 racing there. They actually have three tracks all huge. One is a oval, the second is more of a kidney shaped oval and the third is a road course track. Plus they have a couple of aff road tracks for good measure.

RB Shark
 

I've tried searching:confused:....what is a good rule of thumb for engine head shimming? The manual states that if you run more than 25% NM to shim 0.1mm, but I'm not sure it's that simple. Can someone help? I am going to be running 30% Byrons with either 9% or 11% lube.

Also, does anyone know what piston/sleeve/con rod I will need once it's time to rebuild?

Thanks guys!!:tire::tire:

I'm running my shark stock, no shims added. There is no reason to run 30% for off road, all it does is make the engine run hot and hard to tune. I'm running 20% O'donnels speed blend with a extra ounce of caster oil added. I got the advice on nitro content and the oil from one of the top tuners in California. My engine had a smooth idle, no flame outs and nice throttle responce. Use any 20% with a little extra oil for security, you don't want to be popping that pricey engine. 30% nitro is a engine killer, only go to 25% when you have trouble holding idle or flaming out. He told me to use 25 if i get to my third or fourth gallon through a motor.

Wow... 30% runs great and last just as long... what a way to say that 30% kills your engine.... no issue here...


as for the original question u can run 30%.. i would run 30/11...

that is a bunch of malarkey !