That didnt change anything either. So i am back to square one. The head was tight aswell.

Ok, the height of the taper is different, but how does that affect anything? As long as the angle is the same it's should fine.

For me it's the only plug i am ever going to use cause it's the only plug out of RB, OS, and OD plugs that my LHS has.

if you look at the bod of the plug below the threads.. you will see the OS is slightly smaller also... hence the taper being shorter... so the angles could very well be the same...

just an observation.. i myself have been going back an forth with os and odonnels plugs in the past with out any issue

After you heat the engine you say that you have to blow on the line to get fuel there?? When you blow on the pressure line do you notice the fuel hit the HSN and sort of jump back toward the fuel tank? It sounds to me like your carb got really hot in the pre heat process and you are vapor locking. I have had this happen quite a few times when using heat guns to pre heat rather than the comp head heater. If this is what you are seeing you can blow thru the pressure line with the carb at full throttle until the fuel stays at the HSN and no longer jumps back away from the carb.... You should now be able to start it, but with the stock needle settings it may not just idle away on it's own, you may have to adjust some for your location.

If you do use a heat gun or hair dryer try to hold a thin piece of metal between the carb and the head while you pre heat.

What's happening also, you are burning only the fuel you forced into the the engine, and the engines has not ran long enough to create pressure to the fuel tank to draw into the engine, you can try to throttle some on the carb, like your pumping the throttle, to get the engine pressure going. Also, a finger on the exhaust pipe, while turning over the engine, helps force fuel into the engine, while holding finger on the exhaust, you can watch the fuel moving to the carb, when its to the carb, remove your finger, don't hold it too long, you can force more fuel than you need, and kill the plug, and hydro lock the engine with to much fuel.

Yeah you are right this is exactly what happens when i blow into the line. Ive got a piece that came with the heat gun that will do the job and ill just try to keep the heat away from the carb. And i will prime it just a little by the exhaust. Also is it alrite to adjust the idle screw a bit to get it to idle and if that doesnt get it to idle should i adjust one of the mixture screws.
Thanks guys.

I'm not an expert tuner by any means, but once you get a good idle gap, you should pretty much always adjust the idle screw and low speed needle together to keep it the same.

Once again Chris you where right. as soon as i heated the motor without the carby getting to hot which wasnt as easy as it sounds, it started properly and i managed to get it to idle. I am although a bit worried about after completing the first tank i noticed and oily residue all over the low speed needle is it common for these to possibly leak from new?
Mitch

Well, I would say clean it off real well and keep an eye on it. When new, there is a lot of oil all over these engines as they use a lot of oil to assemble them and this may just be some of that assembly oil. The RB LSN has two orings on it and I have carbs that are 5 years old that don't leak past those two orings. Is it building up on the carb boot or at the face of the LSN where you stick the screwdriver? If at the face it may just be grease from assembling the LSN into the slide. If you don't have any cleaning putty I would suggest getting some. The cleaner you keep the outside of your engine the better, and that stuff works wonders!!

RB .12
 

RB .12 mod What would be the different in gearing for this motor coming from a nova flash .12???

Thanks

You will probably get a better answer in the onroad section.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-n...ngine-zone-71/

Yes it was only around the needle part so i think it will be alrite and its not doing it now after 6 tanks so it should be alrite.

So, I'm only on the 4th gallon through the WS9 but planning ahead as always...

What's the point of view on a full rebuild of the WS9 versus getting a B11?

The B11 is going to make more power and get better fuel mileage. The WS7 will probably rev a little higher, but the power it makes at those higher RPM's will still be less than the B11. Since the square stroke WS engines are no longer in production I would say your better off getting a B11 to make sure you can get parts if needed.

+1 I shoulda listened to this to.

Thanks.

I cant seem to find any decent fuels here in Germany were i currently moved to... its all this graupner and tornado shit.. do you guys know anywhere stey sell around here in Cologne. ?

Regards

Daniel

MBX6 B10 efra 20 24 sanwa futaba- BUT no FUEL!!!!

how is the F11 compared to the werksB5

First of all I'm sorry for my english mistakes,I'm from Brazil and only have 15,so give me a break.
Anyway,I have D8 with a RB hobby9, I only ran it two gallons.But last week I completely forgot to chek if my airfilter was decently oiled.The result,dirt in my engine and two burned glowplugs.So I got home and opened my engine cleaned everything the best way I could with my byron gen2.I don't have that much experience(neither my father) so I came here to ask what more could I do?And is the 'life' of my engine to compromised?
Final observations:I ran two or three tanks whith it that day.
Any help or coment will be very helpfull.
PS:If is a page talking about this sorry for not finding it,there are a lot of great stuffs in this forum,however is really hard to find.

Ok here is the deal. With odonell 30% (regular) in my ws7 I could get 11:00 easily and that's with a 7.5 insert in my rc8t odo 97t plug. Last night I could barely get 7 min when I ran the new 30% speed blend. It also went from 220 to 244-273 in temps. Is my tune off maybe. I also had to open the idle gap 6 hours.

And you flamed out once! I couldnt keep my Ws7 running. I am considering hanging up the nitro while i can still get good money for my stuff. Then again, i may regret it! Got to figure that out asap.

I opened the idle gap and it stopped the cutting off at idle. I was always told with a proper tune u shouldn't have to touch the idle. Does anyone have a good base setup for the new fuel.

I'm not sure on my exact needle settings but I just switched to the new 30% on my WS9 and had to lean out the low end and the top end quite a bit, I think it was close to 12 hours on both, sorry I can't be more precise.

Given your reduction in run time I'd say it's too rich now as well.

Perhaps leaning out the low end will help your idle too.

I run RB #7 plugs.

I guess I could be really rich still which is causing it not wanting to idle which in turn threw off all my other setting. She had plenty of smoke just not my usual run time. Thanks for ur info bro. I guess its worth a try since I just bought a case of that speedblend

Yeah, I'm sure you'll get there. The tuning window on these WS engines seems to be quite narrow.

I gave up with monitoring the temp on this engine, just made sure there was always a little bit of smoke. Maybe a colder plug is worth a try though if you're really worried about the temp but it will make the tuning and the idle harder to get right obviously.

What if I went from a 7.5 to a 6.5 insert.

Less air, less draw on fuel (better consumption) but less power. It's all relative to the HSN setting. It will just change the air fuel mix you need to tune to...

You shoul dnot have to open your idle gap that much to make the engine stay running. The idle gap determines how much air the engine gets and that should always be close. Close your idle gap back to where it always was and lean the LSN to get the idle stable. From what I have heard from others running that fuel, you will also have to lean the HSN as well. Everyone I have seen post about that fuel gets better fuel mileage with the speed blend when compared to the old fuel so your tune has to be way off.

It's possible that the engine will be ok but it's hard to tell. If it ingested enough dirt to kill 2 plugs it was probably quite a bit of dirt. After you clean it all real good, hold the case to your ear while turning the bearings... If it sounds crunchy that's bad!! Also look at the piston and sleeve for some obvious scratches.

Last thing you can try is to just run it again and see if it will run. If you cleaned it real good and it still wants to die all the time it is probably done. Good luck man!!

Thanks for the help.
I ran it yesterday I didn't have it any problem.The engine fire up always in the first try.I guess that I was lucky.Now I have to wate so see how long thi engine will hold compression.

Is anyone looking for a 9863 pipe and header set? Works really well with the WS7 series of engines. I have 1 NIB with long square header.

Do any of you use cheaper bashing/ practice engines and swap out for race?

I've realised how many gallons I've gone through on the WS9 already and am wondering if I'm better off race tuning the expensive engine and using a basher for the other mileage.

I love throwing cash at these cars of course but to keep costs down and make it easy it would be great to leave the pipe combo as is.

Any thoughts?

I like to keep several practice engines around. What I do is just rebuild an old engine and use those for practice engines.

Thanks. All RB or others that work with these pipes?

I'm guessing the F11 is a good shout for this...

Ya, all I run is RB. The F11 would make a great engine at a good price!!

Yeah, I'm sold on that engine. It's cheaper than rebuilding a WS-9 (if you have to do anything more than rod/piston/sleeve) and it looks very very similar in spec to the WS9 anyway.

My B11 is en route, will drag as many hours out of the WS9 as I can but pick up the F11 for practice and set-up once it's had it's day.

Who all run the rb air filter. Can l use a diff housing to run the rb air filters.

I used to run the RB filter housing and it is still my favorite filter, but it doesn't fit under the body of most newer cars. RB does make filters for the Losi Serpent car as well, they even come pre oiled.

I like the look of the rb filters. They seem more dense thAn all other filters.

stalls at 100 celcius
 

I am currently breaking in my new RB B10 engine but when i reach around 100 degrees celcius ( 210 fahrenheit) it stops!! does anybody have any ideas`??

glowplug is changed!