When you say it stops what happens? does it rev high then stop? does the idle drop pretty low then it just shuts down? I have a feeling you are still rich on the LSN so you either want to turn up your idle or lean the LSN a little. Generally during breakin I always run my idle higher than normal to make sure it stays fired while running on the rich side. Also going to a hotter plug should help it stay fired when still rich.

well i heat it up to around 70 celcius and then start it, its starts good and the idle is slightly higher than what i normally would have, LSN and HSN is rich. then it idles really well for 2 - 4 minutes which is about the time it takes for the engine to reach 95 - 105 celcius. Around that temperature the engine (LSN) starts to sound way too rich and then it just dies. no idle increase or anything, just slows down for 2 seconds and then dies

Lean out your LSN a few hours, when it's cold the idle will always seem high so try not to adjust the idle to be stable till the engine is nice and hot. Have you leaned the LSN or HSN at all yet? If not then that is what you need to do for sure. The needles are always very rich at stock settings and will need to be leaned to keep it running when your driving it around.

If i do that then my idle will be really high, since now its slightly higher than normal and very stable until it reaches 100 celcius. can that be right?

Ignore what your idle is doing until it is fully warmed up. When you lean the needle yes you may need to also lower the idle as a result. The key is getting the mixture set right so that it will idle and stay running for you once up to temp.

I'm thinking about getting a RB s7 Europa from a guy at the track, he has run a gallon thru it, then had the speed shop put ceramic bearings in it.My question is will it do ok in my rc8t.I've got a jpx .28 in it now but its time for a rebuild on it.Also I'll be running a jp4 pipe for now because its what I have already.Thanks for any help.

The S7 Europa was really an onroad engine for its time. If you plan on putting it in a truggy I feel you may be disappointed as it will lack the bottom end necessary for ultimate fun factor/racing scenarios.

If you want a .21 engine then the Fire11 is more than enough, the B11 will have great results and drivability, the MT series are .28 and will be more than powerful enough and if you can find one out there used a WS series engine (WS7 II or greater such as WS7III or WS9) were great engines but fuel hungry.

Is anyone still running the OLD style C6 i have a chance to pick one up which is new and with a 2045 pipe.

Its the standard head version and i remember them being awesome motors and reliable.

Any comments people can make, will be run on 25% and probably with a 6.5mm restrictor for a bit of econnomy

If you can.get the S7 Europa cheap, use it, get away from the JP pipe, they tend to run hotter than most pipes, the Europa was the same engine, piston, sleeve, rod, and crank as the WS7, what was different, was the crank was not coated, the case was not black, and the rod was not as good, I probably went thru a half a dozen over the years when they were around, use the RB 2045 pipe, with the RB198 header, it will give you plenty of bottom, maybe even use the RB 204 header, it will.give you more bottom yet. It would probably be best to replace the conrod in that engine also, if your using the engine in a truggy, go with all aluminum clutch shoes too, it should be fine.

If you can get for a reasonable price, buy it, use the RB 192 header, you can use the standard head button, its a little.cheaper on glow plugs, or go to a C6 turbo button, you will get better burn, and a little more power, if you can get the newer style back plate, that will help your fuel mileage too, depending on how old the engine is, if it was based off of the older C5, the back plate will not work, you should still get decent fuel mileage .

Last question

is the odonnell 99 plug a good plug to use with standard plug rb's ?

Its a good plug to use, once you continue to use those, and go to an RB plug, they have a tendency strip out, but you will fine using the Odonnel 99 plug.

Thanks for the help,you to rbeamj

New Engine help
 

Hello all,

My engine us a RB S7, about 5 years old and it runs great when it gets going but if I do not run it for a couple of days, it is hard to get going.I am also having problems with the idele settings (It revs high when jumping and I am not on the trottle) I have taken really good care of it, after run oil, broken it down and cleaned it when not racing it, etc etc.

I do alot of racing but I am just wondring if it is time to get a new motor:confused:

Sounds like a potential air leak. Make sure there are no air leaks. Also ensure that you are priming the engine prior to start.

There is a video on youtube somewhere on how to check for air leaks. check for air leaks, return the needles to factory settings, then retune.

The S7 is a great little engine that lasts a long time with the proper care. It is by far one of my favorite engines with tons of controllable power and easy to tune.

It might be time for a new carb, the S7 has the older style carb with idle screw on the bottom of the carb, the newer.style has idle screw on the top side, the shark, b10, WS9, and some of.the newer Nova Rossi engine, try to pick up one of those, that will probably solve the problem,while your at it,put a new conrod in it, probably go another 5 gallons.

Generally if it is revving high when you are jumping it's either a leak somewhere like said above or your tune is off. The easiest way I have ever found to locate air leaks on my engines is to always keep the externals of the engine and carb very clean. If you start noticing wet buildup anywhere you have a leak. This is not necessarily true on the front bearing, that will leak just from running very rich at times.

How much fuel have you run thru the engine? How is the compression? Also if you run 10-15 laps then come into pit lane to let the car idle for 10 seconds what does the idle do? Have you been killing glow plugs at all?

There is not wet build up anywhere on the engine or chassis. I cannot remember how many gallons. I knew as far as idle, it can at times be inconsistant but I am more worried about the high reving when it jumps which is odd because I am off throttle. I do find myself killing glow plugs and my compression if fair to OK. I plan on taking it apart tonight to check the internals

If you seem to be killing glow plugs there may very well be slop at the conrod/crankpin connection or between the rod and wrist pin. In my experiences when the engine will rev like that in the air it may very well be the tune. It sounds to me like you have either a lean HSN or a rich LSN or a combo of both to compensate for one another.

With the wheels off the ground if you rev the engine up high for a few seconds and let off the throttle does the idle drop down nicely on it's own? Does it start high and slowly drop down and almost die? Or does it just stay idling high for quite some time?

By the way... cool lookin pup! Is that a Dobie by any chance?

The HSN is a little lean but it seemed fine when it was being driven. If I rev the engine, it does not idle high. I will break it down to see what I come up with.

FYI He is a Rott. He just looks lean because that was 4 years and 67 pounds ago:lol:

Good deal!!! I have a Dobie and when they are babies they look just like that pic. Let us know what you find with the engine.

s7 europa
 

I just ran a tank through my rc8t with s7 europa,it runs good even with 14t clutch bell just needs 13t to get some snap for corners and jumps.

Yea, the 13 tooth will make a big difference, what shoes are you using?

stock plastic shoes and stock replacement springs,I went from a .28 jpx so I was running a 14t and 15t on bigger tracks.

I'm not sure.what the stock spur gear is for the RC8, but go with all aluminum shoes with 1.0 springs. The long wear dynamite last fairly well, and the TKO clutch bearings are awsome, they last well.

RB Sport 10 temp problem
 

If your never getting the temps up over 190 you either have a bad temp gun or your still very rich. Are you driving it hard or are you just taking it easy? If the engine idles great and does not die you should try leaning the HSN some more and drive it hard. After 5 minutes of hard driving temp it again, then also use a drop of water or spit down by the plug to see if it sizzles. If the water sizzles off your more up around 220-230 and the temp gun is wrong. If it i still cool lean it some more till you have good power and temps up over 200.

I would leave it alone. If it's making good smoke.

Chris, most of the time i'm just taking it easy on the buggy. i don't race, i mainly drive it up and down my street and in my yard. what you said about leaning it up i have already tried, and when the LSN/HSN is almost too lean, the temps still don't get over 200 F. i never thought about my gun, its a duratrax flashpoint, about 3 yrs old, maybe it is inaccurate nowadays...:cool:

but dont temps under 200 hurt an engine? i want it a well made engine to last a long time... c:weird:ould an air leak cause lower temps?

I would agree that running a very tight engine under 200 degrees is hard on the rod. If you think it's running really good I have a feeling your temp gauge is just off.

any other good ways to tell if my temp gauge is off?:confused:

a query for all that rb engines religiously

which engines , pipes , etc. are the most used in buggy and truggy ?

there is a reason why i ask and it could be beneficial to those who rb products ;)

B10, B11, Shark10, F11 for Truck

X11. B11 for car but the Shark and B10 are also used in buggy by some.

I have been using the 2087 pipe with a 198 header for truck.

2087 with the 192 header in car.

This newer pipe makes better power than the older 2045 and the fuel mileage is better.

The spit test is the best way. I personally do not even have a temp gun. If the spit takes a few seconds to boil off at the glow plug your around 220. If it sizzles on contact at the plug you are probably 240ish.

I have tried all the recommendations but it still doesnt want to idle when it reaches around 100 celcius, anyone got some more tips?

PS I left the glowstarter on the plug at 100 celcius and then the idle was smooth and stable..

Daniel

If it will stay running with the glow starter attached then you have a bad glow plug. I thought I saw you said you alreayd put a new plug in, but it does happen that brand new plugs are bad from time to time.

yeah this is the fourth glowplug im trying now and it still doesnt work!! so annoying!!!!

+1 the 192 header and 2087 pipe is brilliant in my buggy.

Hey bro, I went back in the thread to try and see what % nitro and # plug you're using but couldn't see?

Chris is the master on this stuff but I'd try a hotter plug and see if that helps.