The same old story once again... I would say, that those who think they are better tuners because they can tune an engine with a (too) cold plug, are worse tuners and/or more careless than the rest of us!
To tune an engine for cold plugs, you'll have to tune the engine very lean. It's not difficult to set the needles until the engine screams on the straight, say "ding ding ding" when you go down to idle etc. etc.. To know the sweet spot on the needles and then turn them 1 hour out, requires much more experience.

"My RB (Nova, OS, Ninja) engine is built to run lean!" HOGWASH!!!! :D
You run a very good engine, but NO engines are built to run lean. Perhaps low budget engines will loose the compression faster than a high quality engine, but the top $ engine would be able to run 2 x as much fuel through it, if you LEARN TO TUNE IT correct!

I have found that Odonell 97T plugs works the best for My F11.
I also run 30% and Idles, runs, everything great.

What I don't understand is why everyone wants to argue about it. Either try what is suggested/recommended for these engines or do it your own way.... Or be a follower and just do what everyone else does because they said so. Isn't part of this hobby figuring out what works best for YOU??? I personally like to do things my own way to make things work for ME. Maybe I am this way because of the extreme altitude I race at there wasn't anyone online with good advice to help me up here, so I figured it out on my own by trying different things. If you screw up an engine because you want to try something not recommended that's your prerogative and your welcome to screw up as much of your own stuff as you want.

All I am saying is try the C5TGC. Hell one guy in here already did and reported back that it fixed his issues. Also remember, some of the fastest team drivers out there can't tune an engine on their own so being a sponsored driver does not make someone an engine expert or a tuning expert...

So I recently picked up a deal on a parts lot here on tech and in the box of stuff was a C5 engine. I reassembled the motor and it feels like it has a ton of pinch and the bearings feel smooth. Since I am a Go engine guy and know nothing of RB, is this motor any good? What is it best suited for and what pipes are recommended? Also does this motor have any bad habits I need to be concerned about if I decide to try it.

There were a few versions of the C5. Some have turbo plugs and some have standard. Both are good engines, and should work in a buggy or a truggy. Try out numerous different pipes on it to see what feels best to you for what your running it in. RB2045 is what I always ran on mine. If you have 2058 or a 2013 those will work. I have heard many people say a Go 5 port is very similar to a P5 which this engine is also similar to so one of your Go pipes may work ok too.

hey guys, looking to upgrade my savage xl engine, and came across a brand new rb mt9. i have been told its the same thing as the mt10 and mt11 but i know nothing about these engines.. is it anything compared to a picco 28 or lrp 30? i know its a .28 and i guess its a racing engine.. thats about it lol.. would this engine be a good choice for my savage xl? does anyone know anything about these engines? i cant seem to find much.. any info would be great

I'm also keen to know about the RT10.. I can get one brand new for €99 shipped.. I orginally got a 454 for my DM-1, but ended up putting it in my second, engine-less LST2, thinking only for break-in. But now I don't really feel like taking it out and changing it all up for the DM-1.. Am thinking now of just finding some really cheap .28 for it.. So, how's the RT10?

pipe for rb rally 11
 

i am buying an rb rally 11 to run onroad in my kyosho gt2. what is the best pipe for top end and good bottom end?

i currently run an rb .28 rt engine in my kyosho gt2 onroad. it has incredible top end and also strong bottom end. my engine runs at 220 degrees. but i think a rb rally will be even better for this car. planning on getting one after using up the rt10.

I've got the 1/7 DM-1, which is probably quite a bit heavier than your IGT2.. I've tried a couple .21's in it, and I just feel like due to the weight and gearing, it needs a .28 to muscle it up to top speed sooner. I have a new Fire 11 sitting here, and have considered trying it in the DM-1. But even as powerful as the Fire 11 is meant to be, I still wonder if it would have the mid-range grunt to push my DM-1 the way it needs to be..

Really thinking about getting this RT10.. Couple more questions:

1.) Is it a PIA to break-in - i.e., tons of pinch, needs a gallon, etc?
2.) What pipe do you run? I don't want to buy a new pipe. Probably my best bet from my existing pipes would be a NR 9901/short header. I also have a 2063, JP-4, and 053... I also have the 2087 from the Fire 11 Combo but am planning to sell it new and recoup some money.
3.) Plug? Same deal with needing the hotter plug as with the F11? I see it's a standard plug engine. Would OS plugs work?

Thanks..

Chris, I just picked up a C6 USA head button, brand new on ebay, also with the piston and sleeve, I have a crank , Case, and cooling head that are Also
USA version, which way does the head button notch set on the case?

So what looks like a turbo cut on the head button will face the exhaust port when installed. Good find man!!!! Where did you score a USA crank? Reno tracked one down for me last year when he was in Texas so I have that one and the one in my original engine, but neithe rone is new anymore. I knew I should have bought a few more of those engines when they were available.

Well if your gona run it in onroad you may want to try the 2092 pipe. If you have any version of the 2058 you may want to also give that a try. When I first got my rally I ran the 2092 pipe with an offroad header and it was to much for my buggy in the dirt.

I have never ran the .28 engine so I can't give you guys any good feedback on the power or the ease of breakin or anything. I can't even say if it does or does not need hotter plugs.

I do know you cannot use the OS standard plugs. The OS standard plugs are all short body plugs unless you buy the OS LC3 TMAXX plug that was made for the traxxas engines.

There is a guy on ebay that used to part out RB WS7II and C6 engines a couple years ago, at that time I picked up a case, and the original box it came in, then about 3the months ago he posted the crank, got fairly cheap, I think less than 50 bucks, the other day I saw he posted the piston and sleeve, and the head button, I tried to get him to sell it out right, wouldn't do it, already had bids on it, so I wound up getting it for 120 shipped for both. Already have a carb, and new conrod too.

Sweet!! Good for you man, good find! :nod: Even at my altitude that engine throws my truggy around like nobodys business, I bet with the cool desert air it's gona be a monster.

So they've already come out with a 2nd version ol the Blast..

http://www.rmv-deutschland.de/fundgr...d-edition.html

So what do you make of it? Lemme' guess.. F11 killer.. :rolleyes: :p

CHRIS, What do you think is the best pipe combo for the C6USA engine? 2045/192 or 2087198? Or have you seen or tried theNova Rossi 2096 pipe? Its a copy of the 2045, but heavy duty.

Are you sure?!...;)

Personally I ran the 2087 on it more last year than the 2045. Fuel mileage seemed the same but it just felt like it had more power all over the RPM range. I also ran a 2058 on it and that pipe will make it scream!!!! You will lose some fuel economy tho.

I put them side ny side, perfect match. Also, Monty Houston agreed .

Thanks, Chris, I don't have the 2058, and don't really want to buy another pipe at this time, thanks for the info, I think fuel economy is a better deal now.

Nothing F11 about it, F11 is a long stroke engine. This V2 you posted is still a square stroke WS7 revival. Only difference between V1 and V2 that you posted is the V2 has the exact same crankshaft that the WS9 came with so it will have the RB coating on the crankpin and be the same in crank timing. The V1 has the same crank as the Limited Ed 1 engine they released in 2009. If you were going to get one I would go for the V2 as thats going to be just like the WS9 was.

Exact copy? Maybe
It runs very similar , great pipe

If it runs very similar I found that I prefer the 2087 with the long header over the 2045 and short header on the RB's. But thats for my track conditions/altitude/clutch/car so it may be terrible for someone else. The 2045 has been around since before Rody left and is always a good pipe to use IMO. Especially if your looking for fuel economy and drive-ability.

the midrange grunt in the rt10 is really strong. maybe for a heavier car like the dm1 the .28 is the best choice really.

i found it very easy to break in. it started easy the first time, just let it sit on idle for two tank and ran the next 7 tanks with the engine rich. it has a lot of pinch but not too much as to always get stuck. the tuning is also very easy on this engine.

i am running the RB THG2 pipe for this engine. it is made especifically for it. maybe the 9901 would be a good pipe for it, but not sure.

i am using the plug that came with the engine. i think it is a #6. i use 30% nitro. os plug is shorter so it wont work.

Can someone help me out. I've been running an old WS7III and just love it. I put ceramic bearings and just runs great. But I know it's at it's peak and sooner or later I'm gonna have to replace it. I haven't been keeping up with RB for a while. The question is... What new model replaced it but with better fuel economy.

Thnx

So it looks as if there will be an engine coming out real soon called The Blast. That engine uses the same parts as the WS9 which is much like the WS7III you have but it has the latest carb and the MES exhaust so the fuel mileage should be better. As far as smooth power the X11 is similar in power but it will not rev as high as the WS7. There is also the F11 but that has more overall power and should rev just as high but will be harder to control in a buggy.

I think the Blast was just put out by RMV Germany for the German market.. Not sure, but I think it's from RMV Germany, and not directly from RB in France..

That is very possible. Do you know if they already have them? The part number makes it look like it's a 2012 engine. I'd like to see them released, as I know I would pick one up.

Pretty sure I was right about it being just an RMV thing.. The first Blast was a limited edition and sold out fast.. Ergo the V2.. Not on ebay.de yet, but will be soon..

How long have you had the WS7III? How many gallons, have you had it resized etc?

I just picked one up that had been sitting on someone's shelf. This thing is nearly virgin and won't turn over without heating it. I plan on runing it slow at first to get the metals re-aquainted.

To be honest, I know very little about RB engines other than the guys I've known to run them were ballistic fast drivers. Wanted to get your opinion about buying spare parts for this engine while they are still around, or simply run it til it dies and move on.

Your best bet is to run it till it dies unless you know somewhere to get spare Piston and Sleeves from. The rod is the same as the rods in newer engines. It does have a different crank and main bearing as well. If the engine is still as tight as you say you should be able to get 10+ gallons out of it if you take care of it! If you want to go the resize route down the road you can just order the newest RB conrod, wrist pin, and clips and replace them when you have it pinched, that will give you some extra life and will allow it to be pinched a little tighter when the time comes.

I've had it for about 3-4 years. When I stopped using it had about 3 gal. Through it. I stopped using because at the time a whole bunch of new engines started to come out and I bought the B01 Mugen, P5xlt, Picco Evo 3......and retired the RB. Then about 6 month ago a had stopped racing and sold all my stuff. And about 1 month ago I started again and all had left was the RB that was sitting for about three years. All I did was replace the bearings to ceramic bearings cuz I new the ones that were in were shot after sitting so long.

Now I've put about 2 more gallons through it and.... man!!! The engine just screams. The fuel economy is not all that good but I can do about 7min driving hard. Temps are at about 230* and idles for ever. I'm running it with a JP4 pipe.

I really like it, the power band is very smooth. I'll probably repinch it but by then it'll just be a back up engine. Too bad their is nothing that RB makes similar to that with good fuel consumption.

Good luck, I'm sure you'll like the engine.

New RB plugs... "for better idle".............

http://www.neobuggy.ne/

EDIT - here the right link as below: http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...?storyid=11498


Still haven't mastered posting links with an Ipad...

I couldn't get that link to work for me.
Here, try this one out,
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...?storyid=11498

I'm happy to see that the new plugs are going to be made in the 7 and 8
heat ranges too.

Yep, sorry.. Still haven't mastered posting links with the Ipad...

With all these deals RB has been throwing out, and now this teaser with new plugs..., makes you wonder what's in the cards for the Nürnberg toy fair coming up...