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I have the RB S3, its my first nitro engine. I really like this engine its great ;). Been using it for about a couple months now. The track I use it at is an indoor track which is small and technical which makes the S3 perfect for this track.
I’m saving up now for next year, summer racing season, for a new engine which will be used for outdoors here in the NW of Washington. I have my eye on either the S7 or the WS7T. |
So if I plan on running a 7mm insert, do I put it in immediately and break it in with the insert or wait until later?
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it does not matter about that, i always run the 7mm anyway well that or the 6
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Originally Posted by r1harper
(Post 5019817)
it does not matter about that, i always run the 7mm anyway well that or the 6
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Originally Posted by novacrzy
(Post 5019535)
a s5 would be plenty of power a s3 would be a little week i think
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when i first started the s3 was my first engine, i would kill v specs,and rb c5's on a small track. it was all infield, and one straight. they would catch up at the end of the straight, but back in the infield i would pull away again.
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Hey guys i was wondering if anyone is having problems with there l2g motors. I seen a few at my local track towards the end of the year and all of them had bearing issues.
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Originally Posted by Fierle03
(Post 5021800)
Hey guys i was wondering if anyone is having problems with there l2g motors. I seen a few at my local track towards the end of the year and all of them had bearing issues.
I have read a little about older generations having some bearing trouble and how the L2G should be better or fixed. Now I'm worried a little. :eek: Is this just that they wore out sooner than they should and they will be forced to replace them for next season with something better? Get some details if you can :nod: |
I would say that if you have to replace your bearings at the end of the year, I would say that is ok. Bearings are cheap, motors on the other hand are not. They are a wear item anyway......just thinking
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The s3 was like brand new had about 2 races on it
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Originally Posted by Fierle03
(Post 5022635)
The s3 was like brand new had about 2 races on it
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I had just about every .21 and .28 Rb they have made over the last couple of years and I have had very good luck. Very reliable. This year I am running C6 with 2045 and why I did not run this combo all along I have no idea. I replace the bearings after 2 gallons on all of them it is fairly cheap. Just my 2 cents.
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im planning on putting a rb tm928 w/ the hpi roto-start in my lst2. and i have a question about what pipe to get. theres a really nice combo deal for an rb tm928 at rcplanet.com but im not sure if i should go w/ the recomended pipe that comes w/ the engine or go w/ somthing like one of the ofna jp line pipes. i really like the jp-3. and i guess im going to have to buy a stock lst2 manifold cause i cant find any rb's that will fit the lst2. i was told i could use one of the rb on-road headers and it would fit, but that just sounds to jerry-rigged. will i be sacraficing any power w/ the stock lst2 manifold? i was also told i could take the header that comes w/ the combo and go to like a welding shop and have them bend it to fit the lst2. but i just dont know about that. anyway, what pipe do any of you rb experienced guys think would be best for my lst2. cause i really like the tm928, gotta have one. thanx in advance, clay unruh
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I just recently acquired a WS7II and have no idea what plug to use in it, what do ya'll recommend?
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You can run a RB #6 , MC59..... It depends on high of the nitro you run too. I run Bryons 25% with a MC59 in my modded S7.
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Originally Posted by aaron joy
(Post 5026131)
You can run a RB #6 , MC59..... It depends on high of the nitro you run too. I run Bryons 25% with a MC59 in my modded S7.
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A little cheaper and easier to find too.:nod:
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Pick MC59s for 25% on a S3 or S5 too?????
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in my non turbo rb's I have always liked the rb#6, in my c6bb and my ws7x3 lg2 I have found that I like the o.s P4...I run on 30% sidewinder
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Yup! I run them in my .12 RB also. I have no luck with the RB#6. But that is the plug that comes in their engines. I do run the RB#6 turbo plug in my C6 BBT tho with no problems.
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i always run the number 6 plug in my ws7iii
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Super RB on Crack!
The craziest RB offroad motor ever built!!
Combine these parts: WS73 Crankcase (Black coated) WS73 Carb (new BB carb) S7 Turbo Button Head S5 13mm turbo cut crank S3 Piston Sleeve (Ported) (UndergroundRC.com has a how-to port video online) C6 BBT7 Cooling Head (RB's lightest 60mm cooling head, and RB's best head) run with O'Donnell 97T plug and RB 2045 pipe and buggy header..... This combo will blow your mind, its basically a square stroke, 3-port, RB Speed!:nod: You could take it one step further, by installing ceramic bearings after break-in....:weird: It has tons of responsive torque (like the OS speed), great usable power at mid range, and excellent top. Sings like a fat lady at about 230, and gets 8-9min run-times going hard on a big track:lol: If you want a bad-a$$ race engine for next season,... build one of these! It has everything to do with the 3 port! :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by CarCrazy
(Post 5027095)
The craziest RB offroad motor ever built!!
Combine these parts: WS73 Crankcase (Black coated) WS73 Carb (new BB carb) S7 Turbo Button Head S5 13mm turbo cut crank S3 Piston Sleeve (Ported) (UndergroundRC.com has a how-to port video online) C6 BBT7 Cooling Head (RB's lightest 60mm cooling head, and RB's best head) run with O'Donnell 97T plug and RB 2045 pipe and buggy header..... This combo will blow your mind, its basically a square stroke, 3-port, RB Speed!:nod: You could take it one step further, by installing ceramic bearings after break-in....:weird: It has tons of responsive torque (like the OS speed), great usable power at mid range, and excellent top. Sings like a fat lady at about 230, and gets 8-9min run-times going hard on a big track:lol: If you want a bad-a$$ race engine for next season,... build one of these! It has everything to do with the 3 port! :sneaky: Sounds pretty cool but how much would it realistically cost? It would take a long time to piece together some used stuff to make if affordable. How much do people do this for realisitcally?:weird: |
..or you could just wait for the new Novarossi 4 port. RB is manufactured by Novarossi so the quality is the same.
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Originally Posted by bjr48
(Post 5027449)
Wouldn't that cost well over $700 all put together?:( Just for the engine then you need the pipe and header! :rolleyes:
Sounds pretty cool but how much would it realistically cost? It would take a long time to piece together some used stuff to make if affordable. How much do people do this for realisitcally?:weird: I started with an S3 $179.99 and ported it. I later cracked the S3 case and found a brand new WS73 case and bearings on ebay $64.00. I paid full price for the turbo head button on A-main $42.00.:( I found a brand new S5 crank on ebay for $32.00. Motor $179.00 Case $64.00 Head button $42.00 S5 Crank $32.00 So I paid.. $318 to try it. I had the Cooling head and carb from a worn out C6BBT7. If you have the WS73 your 80% there. Just pick up the turbo head, piston/sleeve/rod, and crank from ebay, then you will be ready for next season.:nod: My buddies at the track do this stuff all the time, and some have found combos they cant live without. ...and yes the Plus 4 by Nova will be an awesome motor when it hits the US!!!! |
i am not gone say your wrong but the speed dont have a lot low end it just super smooth botom to mid then it lights and your like o shit.
Originally Posted by CarCrazy
(Post 5027095)
The craziest RB offroad motor ever built!!
Combine these parts: WS73 Crankcase (Black coated) WS73 Carb (new BB carb) S7 Turbo Button Head S5 13mm turbo cut crank S3 Piston Sleeve (Ported) (UndergroundRC.com has a how-to port video online) C6 BBT7 Cooling Head (RB's lightest 60mm cooling head, and RB's best head) run with O'Donnell 97T plug and RB 2045 pipe and buggy header..... This combo will blow your mind, its basically a square stroke, 3-port, RB Speed!:nod: You could take it one step further, by installing ceramic bearings after break-in....:weird: It has tons of responsive torque (like the OS speed), great usable power at mid range, and excellent top. Sings like a fat lady at about 230, and gets 8-9min run-times going hard on a big track:lol: If you want a bad-a$$ race engine for next season,... build one of these! It has everything to do with the 3 port! :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by CarCrazy
(Post 5029124)
Ya I wouldnt pay retail for that combo...LOL!
I started with an S3 $179.99 and ported it. I later cracked the S3 case and found a brand new WS73 case and bearings on ebay $64.00. I paid full price for the turbo head button on A-main $42.00.:( I found a brand new S5 crank on ebay for $32.00. Motor $179.00 Case $64.00 Head button $42.00 S5 Crank $32.00 So I paid.. $318 to try it. I had the Cooling head and carb from a worn out C6BBT7. If you have the WS73 your 80% there. Just pick up the turbo head, piston/sleeve/rod, and crank from ebay, then you will be ready for next season.:nod: My buddies at the track do this stuff all the time, and some have found combos they cant live without. ...and yes the Plus 4 by Nova will be an awesome motor when it hits the US!!!! I've got plenty of time to look around for what you listed too. But if you needed even two of those items brand new the cost would start to go way up with the way RB prices individual stuff :lol: |
Car Crazy Im with ya on the Frankenstein engine. I bought a modded S7 on ebay for $165.00, fast as hell. I broke a screw off in the end of that crank shaft during a clutch change and screwed up the crank in a frantic hurry to get the broken screw out. (Heavy Hand) I bought a WS7 III crank off Amain $120.00 :mad: A friend of mine cracked a sleeve on a fresh C6 not a BBT the one before it. I bought a WS7 head button off ebay for $17.00 So I took the carb and head off that and bolted it on my now even more fast as all hell S7/WS7 III. Last but not least I put Boca's new Ceramic MX engine bearings in to replace my old leaky stock bearings.
Did anyone notice that the C6 has a better carb then the S7? The S7 carb I had started giving me problems. I took it apart and noticed the S7 carb low-end needle is only sealed by one O-ring while the C6 carb low-end needle is sealed by two O-rings. Maybe they changed the carbs but Im not sure. |
I love my S3 engines.. I now own 3 an a S5. I had so much trouble out of my v-spec I traded it outright to a buddy for his used S3 straight up and I think I got the better end of the deal. It is so smooth an easy to tune an drive. Not like the v-spec.. that thing was ballastic and I run mostly shorter tracks with technical layouts.
I use 30% byrons gen 2 fuel Not sure which plugs I am using or inserts I do know I need to work on that as my fuel mileage is lacking a bit running a 2050 pipe |
RB in 2009...
http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=7424:cool: |
bringing it back up to the top
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:nod::nod::nod:
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Looking For Some Insight From Some RB Guys
Here's my post from yesterday.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...-s-anyone.html Maybe some of you RB guys can help me out with this. Chuck |
Well I just started breaking in a C6 BB LG2 on Tuesday. I am using a 2045 with a 92mm header. I have been reluctant to switch brands of motors because my old brand has been so reliable and easy to tune.
I noticed the RB is way heavier than my old motor. Saturday I will finish the breakin and race it. |
any recommendations for a pipe on a s7. It was way weak on the bottom but insane on the top. Motor has about 1.5 gallons thru it. Had a JP-1 on it
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nice stuff. ive been wondering which motor to get for my buggy. a ninja jx21, jamminjpx21, trinity platnum draked 21, and now the rb s5. im leaning towards the s5 after reading this, or maybe the s7 l2g.
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Originally Posted by chris c
(Post 5147750)
any recommendations for a pipe on a s7. It was way weak on the bottom but insane on the top. Motor has about 1.5 gallons thru it. Had a JP-1 on it
Its not the engines fault. With a jp-1 an S7 should be a monster when tuned right. ( and a complete fuel hog). I run a jp-1 and WS7III. You just need to put in 1.1 clutch springs for the S7 to get her going down low. I'd lose the JP-1. I hate mine. Going to try a Dynamite 053 next. I've never needed more bottom end but my bottom isn't the strongest. If I lose a little bottom with the 053 but pick up fuel mileage I'll be ok. |
Originally Posted by Zerodefect
(Post 5295270)
Its not the engines fault. With a jp-1 an S7 should be a monster when tuned right. ( and a complete fuel hog). I run a jp-1 and WS7III. You just need to put in 1.1 clutch springs for the S7 to get her going down low.
I'd lose the JP-1. I hate mine. Going to try a Dynamite 053 next. I've never needed more bottom end but my bottom isn't the strongest. If I lose a little bottom with the 053 but pick up fuel mileage I'll be ok. |
In my experience with the JP pipes, they tend to make engines run hotter.
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I posted this in the On-road Exclusive Engine section this morning thinking I was on the off-road side. Both threads are pretty much dead so maybe this will start one of them off keeping track of what 2009 is bringing for RB...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=14715#more-14715 I'd like to keep track of what RB is doing this year. I was going to get an S5 for the 2009 season but since OS fixed my VG under warranty and I took a paycut at my job I'll be lucky to just break it in and buy fuel this season. I still want to keep track of RB as they will 99% be likely to be my next engine whenever that may be 2009, 2010? What's the scoop on the new engines? I can only find the pictures I posted, no news. Is it possible that they are a 9 port engine?! I'm guessing that may just as likely be a year 2009 designation (.9 in the name of the engine). The 3 offroad engines are the B.9, WS.9, and S.9 if you look at the business cards in front of each. |
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