What do you guys think of the TiNi cranks? Anyone compared it to a DLC crank over the course of 8 gallons or so? Or find it worn thru on the pin?

Hi Guys
I have been reading this thread for quite some time now and really liked what I read about the Go-Tech engines. I have bought several Novarossi engines from Rick Brake @ RBMODS and had him mod them for me and he has been really impressed with the go engines. He sold me on a GX-7R Combo set with 2072 pipe. I had him mod it and put ceramic rear bearing in it. UPS man brought it last Friday.
I’m not sure what effect the different venturis have yet I always just ran what came with the engine. I need to ask Rick about that.
I also made a pre heater for the cylinder head that is 12 VDC it heats the head from 60’F to 200’F in 15 min. It draws 3.5 Amps by my meter so I am powering it from my bump box witch has a 12v 7ah battery in it. Should help me with cold starts while I’m breaking engine in. It’s still a little cold here in pa.
Engine SN# US0000096

The GX-7R with 2072 is killer in stock form, so your modded one will awesome.
Smaller venturi's will give better run time, and can actually increase bottom end performance very slightly because of the "ram air" effect they can create (so I'm led to believe).

As you all know I am still running in a GO GX5R can get its started fine with a little heating up etc. have run about 3 tanks through it so far.........

Have checked my throttle linkage etc. and the carb slide and idle position with a 1mm drill blank and it returns to the same position from WOT to closed everytime........now when I get the car running and I'm still only doing little quater throttle blips.........its almost like when it throttles up it stays there until I pull the brakes on? At tickover its also starts to rev up slightly on its own to the point that the clutch is almost engaging??

Any ideas

If you are 100% sure the slide returns immediately so check for airleaks and fuel/pressurelines etc.

If it stops it when u put the brakes on then the slide isn't returning fully. Test it by putting a rubber band over the linkage to act as a return spring.

Also check to see if the carb boot isn't rubbing on the diff bulkhead.

you could be lean on the LSN to. that would cause it to rev up at idle.

Sounds like a EPA adjustment thing to me. If it drops the revs as soon as you put the brake on, the throttle slide is not returning fully - even though it looks like it is.
Use a rubber band on the throttle slide like shanef suggested, and also dial back the throttle on your controler until you can see a little gap between the stopper on the throttle control rod and the servo horn end. This will ensure you return to a fully closed throttle slide at idle.
If it was a mixture problem the revs would remain up despite the brakes being applied.
One other thing - just make sure your throttle linkage rod is nice and loose. Sometimes if you have the throttle ball cap on the end of the LSN set at the wrong angle, this can lead to the throttle rod sticking in the servo horn connection. Make sure the throttle rod is sitting nice and parallel and not at an angle so it slides freely.

Tell me what happens when you are at idle and then pinch the fuel line ? does it rev up high , to the point the clutch engages before it dies ?

If so your idle may be too high ... Also check the carb bolt .. what id do is loosten it .. push the carb down hard and while pushing down re tighten the carb bolt ..

You may either be chasing an air leak or the idle is set too high

also Guys a general this EVERYBODY should be checking is when the engien is new and you had a few tanks through it , once the engine is cool check the head bolts to see if they are tight as well as the carb bolt.

the first couple of times an engine heats and cools it can cause the bolts to un crack .. this is common on any engine so just make a note to check these during the run in process as the engien is settling in ..


Cheers MM

TINI coating will eventually wear , its not a permanent coating. Crank pins will wear through after about 6 to 10 litres depending. The Tini is an extra coating so the beauty of it is regardless the crank pin DOES wear over time .. The good thing about having Tini is that the the Tini cops the wear at a reduced rate . so the actual pin wear is delayed

Mind you we inspect crank pins all the time and have had some with well over 20 litres ( about 4 gallons ) with virtually no TiNi wear .. So id say the rate of wear is determined by

Run in procedure
Quality of oil in the fuel
Tuning and maintenance
Correct use of Air filter

if you get all these right your engine SHOULD last ages !

what he said/see above!:nod:

Got my GO GX-5R and GO 2072 pipe combo in the mail couple days ago from 22Racer (Rex) and started breaking it in today in my Kyosho MP9

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vs7rxlkpbuY

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...h_0e4b5694.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...h_1d6f956f.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...h_394d53f3.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...h_266ddd5b.jpg

Thanks Grizz, you just reminded me about a project I'm working on as a new thread,
You'd be surprised how many times I'm asked to take a look and tune engines at the tracks lattely that haven't got these basic things set correctly to begin with,
it is now the first thing I check before I even touch a needle now.

i had rex break mine in. You will be happy with this motor. see ya this weekend.

Hey MM, If I pinch the fuel line it like dies within 2-3secs no rev up or nothing.