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i am running the GX-5r in my Rc8t and i love it. plenty of power. so thats were i would go.
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Originally Posted by sriley
(Post 7581718)
Which one of these would work best in an RC8T CE? I know a 5 port was recommended but I was assuming that was a .21.
GO PRO .25 6 PORT RACE ENGINE GO PRO .21 5 PORT TURBO HEAD GO PRO .21 3 PORT SPORT ENGINE GO PRO .28 3 PORT SPORT ENGINE match with 2072 pipe & o'donnel 97T plugs the last 2 are RTR motors |
Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
(Post 7581955)
+1 GO PRO .21 5 PORT TURBO HEAD :D
match with 2072 pipe & o'donnel 97T plugs the last 2 are RTR motors |
Thanks for info.
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If my engine is revving up and then dropping down to normal when i stop my car, am i still rich on the lowspeed needle?and when my car is on a half tank of fuel,idle suddenly rise like its gonna run away from me.
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Originally Posted by vyt666
(Post 7589990)
If my engine is revving up and then dropping down to normal when i stop my car, am i still rich on the lowspeed needle?and when my car is on a half tank of fuel,idle suddenly rise like its gonna run away from me.
With this situation you will need to have your top end set too lean to compensate, so this could be the cause of your engine reving up at below half a tank - as your mixture will have leaned out further as it is harder to maintain tank pressure as the fuel level drops. Set your idle gap to .7mm, no more. Now if the motor won't idle at this setting, lean the bottom end to bring the revs up - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE SCREW to bring the revs up. At the same time richen the top end needle half a turn (this may be too much but you need to start rich and work the other way). Tune the bottom end for a crisp take off, then make small adjustments to the top end for nice clean running at WOT with plenty of smoke. If you needed to adjust (lean) the top end by a reasonable amount, then re-visit the bottom end needle, which you may have to richen slightly to compensate. Be aware of the relationship between the idle gap and the low speed needle - If you raise the idle you will richen the bottom end, and if you lower the idle you will lean the bottom end. Always make adjustments to compensate for this if you need to adjust the idle at any time. The other possibilty with the motor reving up at below half a tank is that you have a split in the tank seam, which is causing an air leak and leaning the motor once the fuel level drops below the level of the split and air starts getting entrained onto the tank. Get the tune right first. I think this is more than likely your problem. |
Originally Posted by rider313
(Post 7581856)
i am running the GX-5r in my Rc8t and i love it. plenty of power. so thats were i would go.
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if you bought the GX-5R combo then it came with the 2072 pipe. it is an awsome setup. I couldnt beleave how much power it has. more than my old .28 setup
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 7590464)
Engine coming in with a high idle then dropping down after a few seconds is the sign of a rich bottom end with the idle gap too wide.
With this situation you will need to have your top end set too lean to compensate, so this could be the cause of your engine reving up at below half a tank - as your mixture will have leaned out further as it is harder to maintain tank pressure as the fuel level drops. Set your idle gap to .7mm, no more. Now if the motor won't idle at this setting, lean the bottom end to bring the revs up - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE SCREW to bring the revs up. At the same time richen the top end needle half a turn (this may be too much but you need to start rich and work the other way). Tune the bottom end for a crisp take off, then make small adjustments to the top end for nice clean running at WOT with plenty of smoke. If you needed to adjust (lean) the top end by a reasonable amount, then re-visit the bottom end needle, which you may have to richen slightly to compensate. Be aware of the relationship between the idle gap and the low speed needle - If you raise the idle you will richen the bottom end, and if you lower the idle you will lean the bottom end. Always make adjustments to compensate for this if you need to adjust the idle at any time. The other possibilty with the motor reving up at below half a tank is that you have a split in the tank seam, which is causing an air leak and leaning the motor once the fuel level drops below the level of the split and air starts getting entrained onto the tank. Get the tune right first. I think this is more than likely your problem. +1 Nice explanation Grizz. I see this far too often at the track, and also guys tryin to tune an engine when the linkages aren't set correctly also is a big problem I'v seen latelly. |
Originally Posted by Flanno
(Post 7591055)
+1 Nice explanation Grizz.
I see this far too often at the track, and also guys tryin to tune an engine when the linkages aren't set correctly also is a big problem I'v seen latelly. Itīs also surprising how many guys don't realise the connection between idle adjustments and LSN position. |
im using a go 7port(not the go GX series)on my jammin X1Xcr,power is great but seem to get very weak on the bottom after 2 to 4 laps on the track,i cannot do a quick simple 180 degree turn with it,i just want to have a snappy acceleration,im using a dynamite 053 pipe .5mm head shims,fioroni carbon clutch shoes and 1.1 clutch springs gearing on my buggy is 48t spurgear/14 clutchbell..any advice to make this engine more punchy on the bottom end?
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Originally Posted by ginger
(Post 7593231)
im using a go 7port(not the go GX series)on my jammin X1Xcr,power is great but seem to get very weak on the bottom after 2 to 4 laps on the track,i cannot do a quick simple 180 degree turn with it,i just want to have a snappy acceleration,im using a dynamite 053 pipe .5mm head shims,fioroni carbon clutch shoes and 1.1 clutch springs gearing on my buggy is 48t spurgear/14 clutchbell..any advice to make this engine more punchy on the bottom end?
If you have the long needle, I suspect you are too lean on the top end. This senario is well documented on here, as are the different needle lengths. The short and long needle carbs tune quite differently. If you want more info PM me for details on needles and tuning. Try richening the top end 1/4 turn and retune from there. |
i have the carb with the short LSN.should i lean the HSN or the LSN?
just want an acceleration like this one the video although the engine on the video is a modified 7port.. my 7port can scream like that on the stretch but when it comes to a full stop and pulled the trigger oh my what a lazy acceleration it has. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=711GETlpCEc |
Originally Posted by ginger
(Post 7595212)
i have the carb with the short LSN.should i lean the HSN or the LSN?
just want an acceleration like this one the video although the engine on the video is a modified 7port.. my 7port can scream like that on the stretch but when it comes to a full stop and pulled the trigger oh my what a lazy acceleration it has. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=711GETlpCEc Otherwise it could be too rich or too lean. Hard to say without hearing it in the flesh. |
Originally Posted by ginger
(Post 7595212)
i have the carb with the short LSN.should i lean the HSN or the LSN?
just want an acceleration like this one the video although the engine on the video is a modified 7port.. my 7port can scream like that on the stretch but when it comes to a full stop and pulled the trigger oh my what a lazy acceleration it has. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=711GETlpCEc it took alot of work to make the 7 port scream like that ! unfortunately a stock 7 port is never going to make power like the one in my video.... FYI I modified that particular 7 port..... |
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