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Originally Posted by Poinas2
(Post 6444727)
It's actually not harder than with any other engine out there. There are certain design approaches that GO has made and formed a very competitive engine lineup. In most cases guys just don't listen what they are being told to nor disregard the info and then blame on the gear if it fails.
Be it the GEN 5/5.5 or the new GX series engines, just do the basic steps: Install run-in shimm Put in hot plug (like OS P3) HEAT the engine to +100degC meaning BOTH the heatsink and block is in +100degC Loosen the plug Prime the engine Start it Fasten plug If engine tends to stall screw in LSN 1/4 turn and that should do the trick It's not difficult and in most cases people dont really heat engine enough (use hair dryers or something crap), don't have starter box batteries fully charged or the car is not aligned correctly so the wheel touches chassis or something stupid like that. When speaking of the con.rod stress. I think atleast 9/10 reason for rod giving up is that the user has not made sure the engine stays in +100degC when running in. If done properly you don't have problems with rods and for all racers it should be normal to change the rod anyway when the engine has bedded in. It's not a cost issue as you already have saved a lot by not buying a "high end mill" for nothing and considering the Go spare prices it's really not a issue to anyone. People are just so lazy and it's easier to blame on the engine than yourself not maintaining it. :lol: I had to screw mine by 1 1/2 full turn to keep the engine runing when i give trottle. If i only screw the LSN 1/2 turn in from flush, forget it, not able to give trottle, the engine always stall. |
I always find 1 turn in from flush on the LSN is about right for a first time start..I have had 6 GO motors now and not one would tickover for more than a few seconds with both needles flush.. I think the pinch problem is a thing of the past with the new GX and all subsequent motors MG66 included..GO have relaxed the really evil metal to metal pinch that made first starting these mills such a destroyer of starter boxes..still preheat to around 100ºC at least for the initial run in procedure but having put 2 galls on the MG66 it has lost nothing in compression by not being quite so tight initially..I also think this will also remove some of the initial stress on the conrods..I presume the GX series like the MG66 has a thicker heavier run in rod fitted at the factory and the lightened "knife edge' rod for replacement once run in is complete..
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Originally Posted by BigRed
(Post 6445699)
Still having an issue with the 5 port. Rex and I have done a few things with no avail. I have a tremendous lean bog on the low. I recently put a carb from my RB s7II on it with the same results.
Rex |
Originally Posted by makaluch
(Post 6444565)
Does anyone make "unpinch" tools yet? :lol: A cylinder hone or some other more precise tool might be useful with these Pro engines.
When I added the break-in shim to my new .25 I rolled the piston up the cylinder. It started to pinch pretty far down the cylinder. It shocked me a bit even after considering the button. Break-in just seems harder on the engine than it needs to be. *shrug* Oh well...I love a good challenge. It's totally worth the pain ;) I can actually reduce the pinch in a motor but I would not do it with a new motor, I do it when I fit unmatched pistons and sleeves together. The Gx are supposed to be lighter in pinch. Rex |
Originally Posted by BigRed
(Post 6445699)
Still having an issue with the 5 port. Rex and I have done a few things with no avail. I have a tremendous lean bog on the low. I recently put a carb from my RB s7II on it with the same results.
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Just completed the Conrod swap @ 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 gallon. Couldn't get over how close the tollerences still are. It made getting them swaped over quite a pain, But I'm really pleased there's so little wear. I guess these new relaxed piston and liner tollerences really help the motor out during breakin.
At the time I also changed out both bearings as I wanted to try an Answer Rc ceramic rear and after "baking" the case to get it out wasn't about to use the front again. Really looking forward to seeing if I can tell a difference on track. Great motor Rod |
will the 3 port sleeve fits the 5 port crankcase?or the 3 port sleeve is bigger than the 5 and 7port engines?
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im sure teh crank cases are all the same in the gen 5 and 5.5 modells i have swaped over cases on some of my motors
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loven the mg 66 bloody awsome donk !!!:D
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Just to clear a few things up:
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The thing I like about starting them on the bench is they fire up right away. It has to be really hard on a motor trying to get it fired when they are that tight.
Rex |
Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
(Post 6450372)
im sure teh crank cases are all the same in the gen 5 and 5.5 modells i have swaped over cases on some of my motors
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that one im not sure about you may have to give it a shot mate :)
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the new line of gx series motors are lot easier to start than the older ones there is a lot less pinch in them for sure :) doesnt really matter what make the motor you always need to put heat in them when firing them up the first time anyway
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Originally Posted by Ruune
(Post 6450897)
Just to clear a few things up:
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