it does sound rich for sure if you have the long needle low speed do most of your tuning from this needle as it metres most of your mixture from closed to open ... have alook on massive mods web sight there is a good read there about tuning :nod:

also if you have been running your motor for a while check your needle orings

Well my head is spinning, so just need advise..

On starter box..I thing normal, yes smoke was, glow plug I changed before race Go standart #5
I sealed ONE day before race, everything, even I changed Orings by Grizz way with fuel tube;)

befor you even think of tuning your engine make sure it is warm at least half tank op temp then start to tune see if that helps at all read MM web sight its good source of info on tuning mate but start with your low needle first and start again reset all your needles flush
:)

First we tune the LSN . Yes FIRST ! Rev the engine on the box, let it settle then pinch the fuel tube with your brakes on so the carb is closed. Count how long it takes to rev up and die. Ideally it should rev up only slightly then die , the rev up should take about 3 to 4 seconds. Note this will shorten when the engine gets hotter. If the engine revs up high with the pinch then lower the idle to suit. Then re do the pinch test. Once this is set we go onto the HSN



Now tune your HSN till you get clean power through the rev range and a trail of smoke. Remember “ No Smoke No good “ . Ok once you have achieved this fill the tank again and run it all the way to empty. You should have an even power from pretty much start to finish . if your engine sags in power at half way , richen 2/8 on the HSN then repeat till you get a consistant running of the engine all the way to the bottom of the tank. What you will have is a needle adjustment that accepts an average tank pressure. Remember an engine only reaches max temp when it gets to the end of the 3rd tank. So if you typically run for more than 20 mins make sure you keep an eye on the tuning. Once you hit the 15 min mark you may need to richen

this is what is said on massive mods

For a little while GO bought out an "intermediate LSN needle", which is probably what you have there. They will work fine. As long as the LSN pulls out of he spray bar at or before full throttle, the engine will tune like most other engines out there with predominantly the HSN, as opposed to the LSN style tuning of the longer needle version carbs.
1.42" is the length of the original (around Gen 3) short LSN. This is the measurement I used after reading Rex's (22Racer) original post, an it works a treat.

Hey Giz - nice work mate :nod: That truly is a labour of love !!!
Good pics too. It's always good to see the face on the other end of the computer. Now I know who I'm typing too when I'm on here raving about the GO's :D

Sure sounds like your really rich or you got an air leak somewhere. Fuel tank, tank lid not sealing etc, that you have compensated for by richening up.
Check everything over and go back to HSN .25 in from flush and LSN 1.5 in from flush. Start tuning from here and see how you go. Dependant on ambient tems and humidity etc,you should end up with a race tune of around .5 in HSN and 2 - 2.5 in LSN (with the long needle carb). Also you might like to remove the HSN needle and blow out the HSN needle seat. Sometimes you can get a little bit of dirt or O ring material stuck in this seat and it can cause all sorts of tuning problems that will have you chasing your tail around all day trying to fix. Let us know how you get on :cool:

Yeh mark at massive was asking for some pics as he was going to put a "my engines over the world" photo section on the MM website..whether this is happening or not I don't know but I mailed him some shots anyway..I'll try and shinny up on the lapcount hut and get a proper shot of the track sometime this week.Circuit surface still needs some work very dusty..by the end of a race day we get 6 inches of clay flour around the edges of the corners which buggers air filters if you slide into it..last winter I pretty much built the track..this winter I'm going to try a few things to firm up the surface and improve traction and try and stop the cars ripping ruts..it's not really us 1/8 that kill it but half our club run 1/5 monsters..12 kilos + of earth moving kit! Bastards!

The short LSN (GOT21-2003) and the one Rex modded in my 3-Port Sport are very close in length. I haven't taken the one out of the 3-port, but with the slide at full open both LSN are about halfway across the opening of the carb.

Nasty !!!! Yes- keeping an off-road track in good racing condition is never ending work. We are a little fortunate in that we have a couple of old retired roading machines that have been donated to the club - a watering truck with pump, and a very handy small duel roller steam roller with vibrating rollers that is awesome for packing down clay and smoothing things out. Unfortunately at this time of year (middle of winter here) the track is too soft and wet to roll normally, so it's all hand work to shovel in fresh clay and then pack it in with a hand pulled garden roller, which is rolled over astroturf laid on the track to stop the clay from being picked up on the roller.
We have had a bad run the last few months, with the track being pretty much under water a lot of the time with constant rain. Got a meeting in yesterday after a few clear days, and lots of pumping out puddles and soak holes, then hand rolling. Track was wicked actually. Real tacky and pretty smooth considering the state it was in a few weeks ago. Buggy came off nice and clean. Almost too much traction (if that's possible) and lots of power in the clear cripsy cold air (high of 12 deg C). The GO was haulin butt :sneaky: :D

ok guys ive has go motors for about a year now. Ive been reading on here that people are getting dang near or over ten minutes on a .21 7pt turbo. I can barely get 6 & 1/2 minutes on a runtime with good smoke and good power. Its def not too rich and not too lean. What are you guys doing to these things to make them run that long. Im running a 7mm insert, resealed the motor, carb is good. Just wondering what anyone would have in mind

what pipe are you running ? will make a differance i run 6.5mm insert in both

im getting 12-mins run time with my 7 port in a truggy

and about 11-12 mins in my buggy 3 port moded

its always the monster trucks hurting and destroying a good track ....:cry:....

the pics of your track look good mate :nod:

I guess it depends on your definition of rich, but at 6.5 mins I would say it is running a little rich for sure.
Run time depends on a few things like - ambient air temperature and density, fuel type, pipe model, glow plug heat, restrictor size etc. The main factors though would be tuning and driving style (ie smooth throttle control). You will find that a lot of guys who are getting 12 - 14 min out of a tank are setting their throttle epa to say 65%, so never using full throttle, and also setting the exponential on throttle to say 10 or 15% for smooth throttle application. Plus they will be pushing it on the tune, getting pretty close to the limit for that sort of time.

Try running a 6.5 restrictor and re-tuning for this smaller size (lean it a little bit). Set your throttle exponential if you can to 15% for smoother application, and limit the throttle opening width to say 75% of the visible carb throat with the epa (travel) adjustment on your controller.
This can save a lot of fuel, as you sometimes crank the throttle wide open, but the motor never reaches full revs before you button off for the next corner, so you have wasted some of the fuel you entrained by pulling full throttle when 75% or less would have done the job.
Experiment and see how you go. A .21 7 Port on a normal clear day with moderate temps should go 9 mins easy.

well it temps right around 250 260 and im running a dynamite 053 pipe. I could understand the throttle exponential thing but that would then limit the top end of this motor wouldnt it. I have some big tripples I need to clear and need that top end lol

g'day Tag,

i'm running a Go 5 port/2072 pipe on C2 Amain Blue Dot 25%

i use a 6.5mm restrictor with approx 60% throttle which was set to what was needed to comfortably clear all jumps as well as a good top end on the straights.

i also use 10%-15% EXP on throttle and a 3 shoe clutch with 2x 1.0mm 1x 1.1mm springs.

this setup up gives me 12+ min run times in my rc8t and temping average= 205fhr (95'C) and max 230fhr (110'C) so i have a fair bit of room to lean on it more if i felt it needed.

Mike