Forgot to answer the questions.. The rear bearing is a TKO Ceramic with almost 2 gal on it. The front bearing was replaced with P/S/R set. The Rod was pre-assembled and it was the correct way. The motor had less than a gallon on it each time the clips popped or broke. The pin is good. I have had them wear before and had them reground and the rod re-bushed on other motors. Shims were installed by RB. I didn't get a chance to really lean it out either time. Was tuned about 90% when it died.

Hey mike nice buggy first of all I thought it was a 808 when I first looked:blush: due to the jconcepts 808 body and the rear tower looks similar also.

:(I've heard a lot of people say that the 7 port doesn't get to fully open up on their track and I think thats a shame as it puts a lot of people off what I beleive is probably the pick of the bunch.

The main thing I put this down to is most nitro racers have never raced electric and don't think about gearing changes to suit their track as the only thing everyone really discusses is engine tuning or pipe changes for more top or bottom end. heres a small example on my home track if I run.....

5 port I use a 16 tooth pinion and the 0801 pipe with a medium header(2047 header)

but on my 7port I run either a 14 or 15 tooth bell and the 2047 with a long header( 0801 header)

Getting the true potential out of an engine can be something as simple as a gear change. just my thoughts

Adrian:tire:

I've been doing this a while now and like I said before, I didn't have any issues when I bought the 5pt new until I had several gallons on it and it just wore out. Since then I've put 2 new P/S/R sets in it and both have failed under a gallon. I haven't changed the way I break my motors in (Heat Cycle Method) and every other motor I have has had 0 issues. I would have to say that if you put fuel into the motor before firing it up it should get oil by the time it actually fires. Especially at rich settings and High oil content fuel. I'm running a P5XS that I broke in the same week and it's my main motor now. Got the 7 port in my other buggy and I'll run it till it blows. Then I'll stick my C6L2G in and continue on with racing and not worrying about the motors puking in the main. I was a Believer.

Hey 2fst2c,

:weird:I really can't understand how they're wearing so quickly I've just measured the wrist pin out of a 3 year old 50+ ltr 7port i just had rebuilt and it only varies by .03 of a mm from 1 side to the other (3.99 to 3.96)

there must be a problem somewhere in the building of the engine or 1 other thing that hasn't been mentioned is the fuel you run.

Also I'm not a hugh fan of ceramic bearings due to the different components having different expansion rates Ie the steel casings expand more that the ceramic balls ...end result a sloppy bearing right from the start

Like I've said before maybe you need to send it to someone to look at for you

Adrian:tire:

I agree you will get oil in your engine but you don't achive oil saturation of the parts only a light coating.

adrian

I'm running Sidewinder fuel. The ceramic was put in after the 1st set failed. Just because I thought it might help. Not the first motor I've built. Been through a lot of them over time. Each time I take it all down, clean the case and clean it again. Clean the crank and even the carb. Oil the inside and the bearings. Apply light machine oil to the crank, rod, piston and sleeve and assemble. It's not really rocket science to get one together. As long as it's clean. And again, all my other motors run great and have over 2 gallons on them. Except for the new ones that is. I just got some bad parts and that's ok. Like I said, I was a believer and still think they are a great motor when they stay together. But I'm done putting money into them. Maybe I'll wait for the new Gen to come out and try my luck again. Until then, I've got plenty of power in my P5 and C6.

Why haven't my other motors failed? Also, I don't recall seeing anything in the instruction book that said I need to take my new motor apart and oil the pin and other parts and assemble before breaking it in. Seems like it just said to idle a couple tanks through it, then run it at light varying throttle not to exceed 1/2 throttle for another 5 tanks and then start leaning it out over then next 5 tanks or something along them lines. Not trying to start a piss'n match here. Just trying to find a scientific explanation to the Pin wear and ruined P/S/R sets. It's all good. Live and learn for me.

if it's a gen 4 or earlier it will have GO on 1 side if the crank case and B21 on the other if it is a gen5 it'll hve the new go symbol and R21 on the other

this is what a gen4 or ealier crankcase looks like
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5P-or-7P-Black


and heres a gen5

http://go-engine.com/in-products/R217PT-P320SG.htm

The 7 is a Gen 4 and the 5pt is a Gen 5. My 7 port block has GO and R21 on it.

I think your right you just got a bad engine . I would have put it to rest the first time it went as like you've said for what you've spent on it now you could have brought a new 1.

all I can say is I hope you do give them another chance as any manufaturer can make a bad engine as not every one can be perfect.... I know I've had Novas give up their rear bearings at under 2 gallons and take the whole engine out Ps keep an eye on the 14.5 mm rear bearing in your p5x;) just to really get you paranoid. I hope you get some trouble free running as it sounds like your due for it:cool:

Adrian

Thanks Adrian. I'll keep them in mind and will try the new motor I'm sure. Really does suck cuz I really did like my 5pt. I was always giving the OS guys and the RB guys smack when they were getting pulled by my GO. The new P5XS is supposed to have a different size bearing in them to correct that issue. I'll find out when I take it apart soon for inspection. I'll send it all to Mark at Massive. If nothing else, he can stick it on his key ring.

there are a few people I wish I could meet on this thread,mostly when a problem like yours comes up. It would be nice to come over and check the mill out. Then there is grizz, mark massive mods god I would love to work for him for a month just to learn. and racer 22[he's from my home state]. Any way I put together one of my 7 ports off of ebay. And what I noticed was it felt sloopy. and it is the one engine that I noticed the pinch was going away a little faster then the others. I may have done the massive mods run in oil a little to much? If thats possible. Not enough heat?It went together hard,meaning the sleeve did not want to slide down into the block easy. This was the engine that made the wisp,wisp noise. come to find out it was the clutch springs[to lite,90's] I'm wondering if your onto some thing here when the engines get rebuilt. This engine has about a gallon on it so I have another one to go until I tear apart and rebuild. Or I may let this one go a little longer. If you stumble across what the problem is please share. I would like to know.

thanks Adrian,

its the JC illuzion II body (it said rc8 on the packet and all the aerial motor body mount holes all lined up for the rc8 but i originally thought the rc8 body was lower too) im running the truggy rear tower and BB shocks so its a little confusing at 1st......

i agree 100% with you on the gearing issue both pinion and spur gear wise! its also something i want to play with a bit more to achieve the best performance!

don't get me wrong on the 7 port cos its a AWESOME engine its just i've ran the 5 the hole time except one meet so thats what i formed my opinion on.

Mike

Go Parts
 

Anyone know where I could pick up some wrist pins? I would like to acquire them ASAP. Thanks

Good point !

I myself run (stock 13/46) with my 5 p, and run (13/48) with my 7 p in my trug.

I also use different clutch spring tentions to tune for the track !