I did email mark at massive mods, he thinks it's a tight engine. it works fine. no over heating no erratic idle nothing of the sort,If any thing I would say that it was tighter then my other 7 port. I have pretty much chewed up the fly wheel getting it unstuck. so I think I will keep using the mmmods run in oil in 1 more tank of fuel and take it slow on the break in. but I know I read some where the same problem and that ended in a broken rod and crank pin. and I am trying to remember but I think with the engine being so tight the census was he should have used the heat gun to warm up every time during break in. If I remember right.:(

OK - they are tight for sure.
Use the heat gun whenever you can, even when the motor is broken in. If I am running my motors at home I always use the heat gun every time to save any uneccessary wear and tear.
Change the rod at 2 gal and you will be fine. Your Gen 5 crank should be sweet as. They are a big improvement on the previous Gen 4 and older cranks.

The Go blocks are a little thicker around the front bearing, some of my Kyosho flywheels would rub the flywheel. Adding a little chamfer to the block or flywheel is what I did and a small washer behind the collett. The newest blocks have a little more clearance I believe. Could be your problem?

I do not have any 3 ports in stock right now, I have a couple on order. I just love my modded 3 port.


Rex

As long as you don't crank on it too hard a piston lock is fine, also a way to get dirt in an engine so be careful. I alway's grab the flywheel with a big pliers or the Robogrip works the best.

Rex

Yep - a pair of soft jawed vice grips works everytime for me.

thanks Rex, I will check it out. when I installed it I thought I had looked it over good only because I HAD THAT PROBLEM BEFORE! the ole fly wheel crammed into the block trick. then wonder what happened to the starter box lol!

im no RC guru sounds like clutch ....i had a simular prob...as i gave throttle the top of clutch shoes would rub top of CB...and also made engine run a little warmer then it should...

but who knows when RC gremlens get a hold of your stuff...it could be somthing verry weird...let us know what happens

Excellent answer! Thank You!

Think I'm going to try this one http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4639

That is if its not an insane choice for a GO (Caster) 5-port...

I had one of these...Frankly I thought it was crap.Didn't seem to suit my GO 7 port at all...build quality wasn't all that great either..pipe discolored really quickly and it didn't take much of a tap on the stinger to crease in the side of the pipe..I ended up giving it away for free..Spend a few $$'s more and get a 2047 or a 2072 or an 0801..

If you are looking to get a pipe from A-Main in that price bracket for your 5 Port, get the Dynamite 086 Hard Anodised pipe. Honestly, these pipes rock on the 5 Port, and value for money you probably won't find a better deal.

Check around...I just won a brand new GO 0801 pipe and header for 40.00.

I'm sure the dynamite is awesome, however I need (prefer) an EFRA approved pipe, and I'm looking for a 086 type.

Regards

Hey All

Yes id say its happening because its tight provided the sound is coming from the engine. One thing that people MUST understand is that engines do not like being run in on a bench. Its what will shorten the life of an engine every time. I know people will tell you differently based on their experience, but on a law of averages an engine will last longer when you run it nice and hot, i run in about 6 to 12 engines a week and the method i use is to put load on the engine IMMEDIATELY !

Why ?

because this creates heat and heat expands the engine. if the engine dosent expand you are restricting the operation of the engine at its most critical point in its life. What happens is the piston will slam into a tight sleeve at an avearge of 12,000 times a minute ! Thats like taking a jack hammer to the rod and bearing.


The best way to create heat in an engine is to put load onto it .. Start it , idle it for 30 seconds , give it a quick tune to make sure its not too lean or rich , then put it on the ground on high traction surface and drive it. Dont baby it and dont abuse it. Gradually increase the rpm with every tank.

By the time you hit the litre mark ( quart for the imperially impared ) you should be giving the engine some stick !

Running an engine cold on a bench will give you no end to grief later in its life.

Cheers MM

that's exactly what I am doing. I only idled through the first tank,but gave it small amounts of rev's. also I used marks massive mods run in oil. actually mark I did that,used the run in oil that is on 2 tanks on this motor. But on the second tank it was on the ground running,putting around. max 1/4 throttle. still makes that noise but as I was walking home from my studio it dawned on me that yesterday when I put that engine in I did not use the ole paper method. I did it by feel. so what I am thinking is I have my gear mesh set to tight. when I go back over I am going to check it. and if it turns out to be a tight engine then I will keep heating it up with my heat gun and keep doing what massive mods suggests. and that's what I love about this forum, we have newbies(me) and experts(mark) to exchange ideas. Had it not been for the gent that suggested I check my clutch I would have never given it a second thought.