I've just cleaned the engine and sealed everything up. However on inspection of the front bearing the seal will spin when i try to turn it with my finger. When i just turn the crank the shield doesn't move.

Should i take it all apart again now to change the front bearing?

thanks
Jason.

[QUOTE=ieie;6485919]I've just cleaned the engine and sealed everything up. However on inspection of the front bearing the seal will spin when i try to turn it with my finger. When i just turn the crank the shield doesn't move.

Should i take it all apart again now to change the front bearing?

thanks
how much fuel has been in the motor??? but i would change it out!!

cahnge the bearings for sure it can cause you tahave tuning problems ...
even when the motor is hot it will cause you more dramas if the front bearing is leaking ....

my bearings in motors do no leak from the front at all the minut they show sighns i replace them straight away

I replaced the bearings about 2 litres ago with the crank case. Just replaced the conrod, wristpin and clips.
The funny thing is the front bearing doesn't seem to be leaking any real oil and that's after soaking the inside with oil and trying to get it to seep out the front bearing.

I'll just tear it down and swap the front bearing and seal it up again.

Thanks.
Jason.

At 4 dollars a bearing it is definitely not worth the tuning issues. I change mine out every 2 gallons whether they need it or not. I also highly recommend putting in a ceramic reaer bearing after break in, even though I think Go uses some of the best bearings in RC.

Guys thanks you've convinced me.
Engine is all apart now, the oven is warming up with and a front bearing is in the freezer. Rear bearing seems good no play and spins nice.. Issue was just the seal in the front bearing.

Where would be a good place to purchase con rods/parts for the GO 3port .21.Thanks..

your local hobby shop... have them shoot me an email at [email protected] and I'll get them set up.

Would it be possible to get them directly from you??

took 3rd pro truggy in Wilson NC @ the Thunder alley "crazy give away race" my gen 5, 5 port turbo stock getn 10 mins of rutime easy ......


intrested in joining the go-tech team :D

I have one rod left, shoot me pm.

Rex

Hi Probably the wrong place for this but here goes, with the 7 port kit i had a restrictor set, I have not used these before on my other engines and would like some advice, obviously the restrictor lets more or less air in and alters economy and tune but what are the real benefits and when do you really need to change them, I would be grateful for any information as not long into racing and tuning.

The restrictor set is a key element in tuning for power and fuel milage. Most of all you need to decide what you want out of the motor. There is a happy meduim but that comes with a loss on both ends. If your looking for blistering power you can step up to the 8.0 big boy but on the other hand you'll obviously lose fuel milage. On the other hand if your running 30,45 or 1 hour long mains you would look more towards the 5.5 or 6.0 to save some fuel and make less pit stops(A good staratagy):sneaky:. One more thing to think about is the layout of the track, if it has alot of doubles or triples where bottom end is needed you may drop in the 7 or 7.5 and still have somewhat decent milage.

ok Yes I see that thanks, now how much difference does it make for the tune, say running 8 for the 5 min heats, if a 7 was fitted for the 30 min final would it have to be retuned as we only normally only get a 10 min gap between heats and finals so there is no free track time to get engine hot and tune it.

With any change to the air/fuel mixture you'll need to retune. How much though really depends on a few factors, temperature, lenght of qual or main,clutch change, ect,ect..... But if your only looking to change before the main I would not suggest doing it unless you can retune. Keep in mind any change with the restrictor will change the air fuel mixture. Say your running the 8 for quals then want to go to a 7 for the main, that's going to change the motor to rich because of less air flow and this will change both the low speed as well as the high end needle settings. Any change in restrictors requires a good retune, now you can manage this if you have a good pit man that knows how to tune, just do it on your warm up laps before the main. Keep in mind your going from 5 min heats to a 30 min main so your taking a chance. My suggestion is do it before your 3rd qual that way it gives you a good idea on your pit times for the main instead of just guessing. Plus if you have any tuning issues you can reslove them before the main.:nod:Hope this helps.