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Originally Posted by OG Ryder
(Post 6378421)
Hey guys my engine starts to lean out pretty bad after it's been running for about 2.5 tanks without shutting it down. It runs perfectly for two or three tanks, then temps start rising and engine starts lean stuttering and pitch changes (almost sounds like when you are about to run out of fuel) then finally dies. When this lean condition appears, richening the needles by a few hours is not enough to counteract it...
It shouldn't be an air leak as this is a new engine with about a gallon through it, and an air leak would cause more erratic behavior throughout the entire run. Pressure line? Fuel filter? What should I look for? Followed the typical GO run-in procedure exactly. |
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Not for long !!!!
OK all you US based guys that have been hanging out for an MG66 - here's your chance. |
have you tried going out first with a slightly richer needle setting as after 2-3 tanks it will be as hot as it will get ?
do you have alot of oil around the front bearing at all i had a motor that was eratic and as long as you have checked everything else is okey i would replace the bearings , i did with mine and it runs so much better i put ceramics in it |
Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
(Post 6381587)
have you tried going out first with a slightly richer needle setting as after 2-3 tanks it will be as hot as it will get ?
do you have alot of oil around the front bearing at all i had a motor that was eratic and as long as you have checked everything else is okey i would replace the bearings , i did with mine and it runs so much better i put ceramics in it |
Also is anyone running a cold plug with 30% nitro? I've been breaking it in with a OS p3 #8 medium plug and it runs good. I put a GO #6 cold in there and it would NOT idle (too fat) so I put the medium back in there for now.
Is it normal to have to adjust needles a few hours or more to accomodate a different plug? |
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
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Are these new GX's available in the USA yet?
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Originally Posted by matrixmike28
(Post 6382226)
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
I just replaced front and rear bearings in a speed with tko ceramic. The engine had a bad noise and I thought it was bearings. Well the noise went away but I did notice after I installed the bearings that the crank felt tighe when i would spin it by hand. I took the engine back apart and made sure that everything was right. It was so I ran it. After a day of qualifiers I took the engine back out and inspected the clutch and engine. The crank now spins very free. I guess the tko's just had to free up. Runs great now. Had about 5 gallons on the stock rear and replaced the front 1 time at around 2-3 gallons. Great engine. :cool: |
Originally Posted by matrixmike28
(Post 6382226)
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
I just replaced front and rear bearings in a speed with tko ceramic. The engine had a bad noise and I thought it was bearings. Well the noise went away but I did notice after I installed the bearings that the crank felt tighe when i would spin it by hand. I took the engine back apart and made sure that everything was right. It was so I ran it. After a day of qualifiers I took the engine back out and inspected the clutch and engine. The crank now spins very free. I guess the tko's just had to free up. Runs great now. Had about 5 gallons on the stock rear and replaced the front 1 time at around 2-3 gallons. Great engine. :cool: |
HMMMMM I may try it then and see how it runs. I am just a little nervous about it.
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Originally Posted by MassiveMods
(Post 6380576)
site Mark. I want a MG66 Ceramic combo kit (w/pipe set). Please get back to me, on getting the funds sent to you properly. |
Originally Posted by matrixmike28
(Post 6382855)
HMMMMM I may try it then and see how it runs. I am just a little nervous about it.
If the bearing turns over nicely without the crank it must be ok. If it's tight with the crank, I would say it is not quite seated properly. Get yourself one of those OFNA bearing removal and installation tools off A-Main. They are great value. Just heat the crankcase real well, and using this tool is a breeze. It has guides that ensure the bearing is being installed straight, so you can't go wrong. It is also driving the bearing in with even pressure right around the face of the bearing, so no damage can occur. Worth the US $45 or so for sure. If you get a chance, try some of the Answer Ceramics. They are a very sturdy ceramic bearing, and worth the few extra dollars over other brands IMO. |
hi guys just a quick Q for those who are running 66 most off yous have seed that on LSN you gone in about 1/4to1/2 i have gone in about 2 and1/2 turns to get a good take off is this going in to far and HSN is still flush I'm running 25%amain and grp 5 plug clutch 3 aluminum shoes 2 with 1.1 springs and 1 with 1.0 on it the clutch is what mm sales getting good tank time and good smoke at full throttle have tried osp3 and p4 the grp just seemed to work well and running go pipe that comes in combo i think its the 2072 and header that come with it and will be running it on 25%blue dot soon sorry not a quick question
cheers jason |
Originally Posted by matrixmike28
(Post 6382226)
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
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