Sorry to here about your GX5R Matt.
But at least you got to run one of those
GX engines. Here in the states, I think we
will be lucky if we can get one to give Santa
Dude to put in our stocking this year.
I have got to get my hands on a MG66 soon.
Does anyone know when and where I can order
one from? Is MM exspecting another batch of them
anytime soon?

Bummer never mind bro, look on the bright side, now you have room for a MG66 in your stable


There is another batch of MG's due for release in the next week from what I have heard. I am thinking a large percentage of those will be pre sold already, but if you contact Massive asap, Santa might just come early this year
I believe they will be available in the US soon, but I am guessing the new US distributor will be working on getting the GX range up and running, and all the backorders for parts etc taken care of before the MG66 motors become a priority. Good luck, and I hope you get one from this batch. You won't be disapointed with it.

yes mate your rite mg66 anyway the only upsetting part was on my behalf forgot to charge and never set the fail safe ....

valuable leson learnt even after all these years of racing

on a positive i qualified 3rd and won the final in truggy but had no motor for the buggy state titles in 3 weeks start preping

get the rubber bands or springs for fail safe duties u will never have to forget its always there as if the battery fails that wont mugen is soon in my scope

Hey was hoping if someone could shed some light on a question I have. I have the GO .25 6 port and have been having proplems with the motor losing its tune after it cools down and then is restarted , it has no top end for the straight aways but enough grunt power on the infield of the track. I have totaly sealed the entire motor right down to the slid carb boot ? About an hour ago for kicks and giggles I pulled the motor pluger off the carb and exhaust and with a long piece of fuel tube on the fuel inlet nipple I put the motor under water and blew into the tube and a ton and I do mean a ton of bubbles came out of the front bearing. Could this be the cause of the tuning issue im having? And if so has anyone have this happen to them ? And just and f.y.i the motor just finished its first gallon of fuel and that includes break in. The motor only has about 6 races on it and none of them were toyaly completed due to the problem I was having. If anyone has and ideas or help please let me know i would be very greatful..

hey matt,

since you're running mugen and i'm gonna switch to an mbx6 soon, i have one question: there are some companies selling exhaust headers with a tighter radius to fit the mugen cars... how is it with you and your headers on the go engines? which headers are you running and did you have any problems installing them in your cars?

regards,
triple

well a good-ish days racing yesterday..qualifyed 5th after a fairly slow time getting the buggy handling right.in the end it seemed a change of tyres was all it needed..MG66 running sweet but it seemed to be revving out at the end of the straight..so switched up from the 13t to 14 tooth clutchbell and decided to try the 2 alloy 1.1mm 1 carbon 1.0mm combo I was running on the 7 port..awesome..this is the perfect set up for my MG66..3 alloy with 1.0's was good but only with the 13t bell..was just a fraction slow out of the corners with 14t..was battling for 1st/2nd place in the 1/4 finals when I lost a wheel.swift look in the pits and it wasn't the usual wheel nut lost but the bloody pin through the hex had snapped.replaced and went out again quick to finish 5th..up to semi's and finished 4th overall despite a front driveshaft popping out on the last lap..one of the guys marshalling popped it right back in for me and slung me back on the track but it cost me 2 places..final..out in first lap...found out why the driveshaft popped when the wishbone snapped in 2 places..not a chance to replace and rejoin in time ..the MG66 ran perfect ..had a number of people coming over to see what it was..with the higher gearing and slightly later clutch engagement I was eating Rb's and novarossi's on the straight..well thats the end of our racing season here in France..can't wait to get the ceramics in this for next season..

Thanks for the tip

Bummer bud, what a shame. Sorry to hear it.

A good excuse for a 2nd 66 coming ?

Pretty boy it sounds like your right you need a front bearing. Thats quick to need a new 1 but your not the only 1 it happened to. Break in is tough on these mills, I hope you used a heat gun for a while. The fr bearing takes most of the punishment from the bump box the occasional blown clutch bearing ect. Go uses some of the best bearings in the buisness so I suggest getting another 1 or go TKO or what ever you want. While your at it check your rod and you may want to TKO your rear bearing also its up to you. I swapped to a full set of TKO's in my ol PTM 5 port and I have to say I did see a difference. It idled like butter for ever and just seemed like the engine was much free-er I know thats not a word LOL.

Thanks Malik for the fast responce.. Yea I did use a heat gun during breakin and even had alumin foil around the head to keep the temp in the 200-210 range during break in. I just finished pulling the rear bearing and man that was a bear to get out..lol I had to heat the block up to around 250-260 for that to pop out. Yea just ordered front and rear bearings form Ready Rollers they have some realy good bearings top quality and very good prices also. Hear is a question for you , I cleaned the whole motor out and pulled the high and low end needles out of the carb and they had what looked to be mud on the threads I never seen anything like that before. What do you think could of caused that ?. I cleaned it all out and put some plumbers thread tape on them and reinstalled them you think that was ok to use that ? Well thanks again for the input I feel a little better that im not the only one that this bearing thing has happen to. Hey you dont by chance run up at Hobby Hut do you ?

The GO 0801 header fits perfectly but the GO 2047 header doesn't fit in the mud guards, it'll stick out.

great.
that's good news.

thx!

Re the carb O rings. That gunge is quite common with the older factory O rings. It can get into the jet and cause problems. Get yourself some of the newer Nitrile O rings, or fit "fuel tubing" O rings. If you want I will send you a PM with instructions. Works a treat and lasts forever.

Ha Giz, talk about coincidence with the clutch set up. I was coming on-line to put up a very similar post myself when I read yours.
I did the same thing at this weekends racing. The X-Ray runs a 16T clutch bell due to it's different internal gearing. It's a nice set up, but like you, I needed a stronger clutch in my old 7 Port motor with this set up.
With the MG66 at pretty much race tune now, I was finding the buggy a little sluggish (almost boggy) out of the tight corners. I tried several re-tunes, until it dawned on me that my problem was an early clutch - DUH !! I had been running 3 x 1.0 mm springs and X-Ray alloy shoes.
I switched the clutch set up for the last heat of the day to 2 x 1.1 and 1 x 1.0 springs with the same X-Ray 1.71g alloy shoes - WHAMMO it's a beast !!! I should have picked up on this earlier, as that is the set up I run on my Stage 5 5 Port, which has a very similar bottom end power band to the MG66 (Mark has engraved Stage 5 Gen 6 on the side of my 5 Port, so I am not sure what nasties he has done in there. It does have tapered edges on the piston top, so maybe he was experimenting with the Gen 6 mods when he did it ) Like you Giz, I think this is the set up for the MG66, no doubt. For our tracks anyway, I guess everyone will be different.
You do get a lot of guys comiing up after you run and having a look at the motor. A lot of them think it is an OS Speed at first because of the black head. Then they read the inscription on top of the head and start scratching their chins and looking confused - HA.

too right grizz1..I started with an alloy shoe with the 1.0 but switched to a carbon on the 7 port and I've stayed with this combo on the MG66..I found the alloy engaging first with the lighter spring wore really fast but the carbon seems just right.but this clutch set up with the slightly higher clutch bell gearing is just awesome for me..still ended up switching the centre diff from 5000 to 4000 oil as well just to move a little more traction to the front..the power was still causing the rear to break away a touch violently..now I think I've got it about dialled..typically at the last race of our season..but it's promising for next season..I'm gonna spend some time this winter and replace all my wishbones and bulkheads etc..most of my plastics are well over a season old which is probably why some are giving up on me..

Next year I'm going to have a more serious stab at some podium places..I also have a blank cheque (within reason) to repair the track for next year so i'll post some pics of anything interesting I build..