2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
09-22-2009 | 12:47 PM
#8686
Hey guys my engine starts to lean out pretty bad after it's been running for about 2.5 tanks without shutting it down. It runs perfectly for two or three tanks, then temps start rising and engine starts lean stuttering and pitch changes (almost sounds like when you are about to run out of fuel) then finally dies. When this lean condition appears, richening the needles by a few hours is not enough to counteract it...
It shouldn't be an air leak as this is a new engine with about a gallon through it, and an air leak would cause more erratic behavior throughout the entire run.
Pressure line? Fuel filter? What should I look for? Followed the typical GO run-in procedure exactly.
It shouldn't be an air leak as this is a new engine with about a gallon through it, and an air leak would cause more erratic behavior throughout the entire run.
Pressure line? Fuel filter? What should I look for? Followed the typical GO run-in procedure exactly.
09-22-2009 | 08:57 PM
#8687
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,977
From: Sydney
09-23-2009 | 05:01 AM
#8689
have you tried going out first with a slightly richer needle setting as after 2-3 tanks it will be as hot as it will get ?
do you have alot of oil around the front bearing at all i had a motor that was eratic and as long as you have checked everything else is okey i would replace the bearings , i did with mine and it runs so much better i put ceramics in it
do you have alot of oil around the front bearing at all i had a motor that was eratic and as long as you have checked everything else is okey i would replace the bearings , i did with mine and it runs so much better i put ceramics in it
09-23-2009 | 08:15 AM
#8690
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
have you tried going out first with a slightly richer needle setting as after 2-3 tanks it will be as hot as it will get ?
do you have alot of oil around the front bearing at all i had a motor that was eratic and as long as you have checked everything else is okey i would replace the bearings , i did with mine and it runs so much better i put ceramics in it
do you have alot of oil around the front bearing at all i had a motor that was eratic and as long as you have checked everything else is okey i would replace the bearings , i did with mine and it runs so much better i put ceramics in it
09-23-2009 | 08:22 AM
#8691
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Also is anyone running a cold plug with 30% nitro? I've been breaking it in with a OS p3 #8 medium plug and it runs good. I put a GO #6 cold in there and it would NOT idle (too fat) so I put the medium back in there for now.
Is it normal to have to adjust needles a few hours or more to accomodate a different plug?
Is it normal to have to adjust needles a few hours or more to accomodate a different plug?
09-23-2009 | 08:33 AM
#8692
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 307
From: TX
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
09-23-2009 | 09:50 AM
#8694
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
I just replaced front and rear bearings in a speed with tko ceramic. The engine had a bad noise and I thought it was bearings. Well the noise went away but I did notice after I installed the bearings that the crank felt tighe when i would spin it by hand. I took the engine back apart and made sure that everything was right. It was so I ran it. After a day of qualifiers I took the engine back out and inspected the clutch and engine. The crank now spins very free. I guess the tko's just had to free up. Runs great now. Had about 5 gallons on the stock rear and replaced the front 1 time at around 2-3 gallons. Great engine.
09-23-2009 | 10:28 AM
#8695
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
I just replaced front and rear bearings in a speed with tko ceramic. The engine had a bad noise and I thought it was bearings. Well the noise went away but I did notice after I installed the bearings that the crank felt tighe when i would spin it by hand. I took the engine back apart and made sure that everything was right. It was so I ran it. After a day of qualifiers I took the engine back out and inspected the clutch and engine. The crank now spins very free. I guess the tko's just had to free up. Runs great now. Had about 5 gallons on the stock rear and replaced the front 1 time at around 2-3 gallons. Great engine.
09-23-2009 | 02:31 PM
#8698
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
If the bearing turns over nicely without the crank it must be ok. If it's tight with the crank, I would say it is not quite seated properly.
Get yourself one of those OFNA bearing removal and installation tools off A-Main. They are great value. Just heat the crankcase real well, and using this tool is a breeze. It has guides that ensure the bearing is being installed straight, so you can't go wrong. It is also driving the bearing in with even pressure right around the face of the bearing, so no damage can occur. Worth the US $45 or so for sure. If you get a chance, try some of the Answer Ceramics. They are a very sturdy ceramic bearing, and worth the few extra dollars over other brands IMO.
09-23-2009 | 04:12 PM
#8699
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 85
From: Australia
hi guys just a quick Q for those who are running 66 most off yous have seed that on LSN you gone in about 1/4to1/2 i have gone in about 2 and1/2 turns to get a good take off is this going in to far and HSN is still flush I'm running 25%amain and grp 5 plug clutch 3 aluminum shoes 2 with 1.1 springs and 1 with 1.0 on it the clutch is what mm sales getting good tank time and good smoke at full throttle have tried osp3 and p4 the grp just seemed to work well and running go pipe that comes in combo i think its the 2072 and header that come with it and will be running it on 25%blue dot soon sorry not a quick question
cheers jason
cheers jason
09-23-2009 | 04:44 PM
#8700
I just put a TKO rear bearing and a fresh front bearing in a 7 port I am rebuilding and now when I put the crank in it is a little hard to turn. The rear bearing seems to be seated all the way back. Is it possible I messed up the race? It spins freely without the crank in. This was the first time I replaced a rear bearing. I heated the motor and used a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap in the bearing. It did not go in easy. (new case) Any suggestions?
