Go-Tech Engines Thread
#8628
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,889
From: Sunshine Coast
I love your shell nice simple and super sweet 
Anyhow just started the run in on the mg66

does anyone have the base settings for it?
as i had to lean my bottom end by roughly 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to get it to idle nicely once i did this though the first tank idled through very well.
I had a football sock over the head and the temps stayed in the 190- 220F range as the tank emptied very impressive start to run in. as it beds in ill lower the idle screw but so far happy happy.

Anyhow just started the run in on the mg66


does anyone have the base settings for it?
as i had to lean my bottom end by roughly 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to get it to idle nicely once i did this though the first tank idled through very well.
I had a football sock over the head and the temps stayed in the 190- 220F range as the tank emptied very impressive start to run in. as it beds in ill lower the idle screw but so far happy happy.
We only idled ours for about 1min (just to warm it up) then straight on the track at about 90% race tune (we call it the honeymoon period for the first tank). Then over the next 3 -4 tanks we increase to full race tune.
Since then this engine has done 10 litres still has grreat compression at TDC, no slop on the conrod and between 9 - 10 min runtimes from a buggy.
Cheers
Mark
#8630
Hi Megacrash.
+1 on those settings.
Both needles will vary a little with fuel, pipe, climate etc - HSN around flush is pretty close. I had to go in on the LSN about the same for a rich but clean take off for run in.
London eh - Hmmm the MG66 is global for sure
+1 on those settings.
Both needles will vary a little with fuel, pipe, climate etc - HSN around flush is pretty close. I had to go in on the LSN about the same for a rich but clean take off for run in.
London eh - Hmmm the MG66 is global for sure
Last edited by grizz1; 09-14-2009 at 10:37 PM.
#8631
#8632
#1831 of 1831 by Ruune (ruune) on Mon Sep 14 20:55:50 2009:
Hey Guys, Sorry about the late entrance. I'm trying to finish the pricing tonight, and then get things rolling with placing the initial order w/ the factory. To clear things up: Yes, we will be offering a limited number of sponsorships- both full and partial. For the team members that havent contacted me already, I need you to contact me no later than WEDNESDAY OCT. 23rd, 2009. I plan to have the first order in with the factory by then. All of the full sponsorships will need to be verified through the factory. Parts. I've heard a lot of complaints from customers and dealers that there weren't enough parts available- specifically conrods, rebuild kits (sleeve, piston, rod), and carbs. I will be stocking rods as a separate item, plus full rebuild kits and replacement carbs. Having spent the better part of my 20's (I'm 33 now) in tech support, I know you cant support a product without parts. I cant promise that I'll have everything right off the bat, but I plan to have the most commonly needed items. Something was mentioned above regarding carburetors- the new GX carburetors are a new design, but are not backwards compatible. Mike Clark... I'll be at RC Pro this weekend. We'll talk then. Tmizz... ask Pato for my MSN address and give me a shout. Availability. I will be offering engines and parts through both online retailers and local hobby shops. If you want your LHS to carry the new engine line, have them contact me ASAP at [email protected]. I've already talked to Kendall about filling backorders for amain, so they'll obviously be available through amain hobbies. I feel that online retailers and local hobby shops are essential to supporting our customers, and will be working to make sure that pricing and availability provided equally to both types of dealers. I look forward to working with you guys and breathing new life into the go engine line, here in the US. Sincerely, Trey Morrow Go Engine USA [email protected]
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Hey Guys, Sorry about the late entrance. I'm trying to finish the pricing tonight, and then get things rolling with placing the initial order w/ the factory. To clear things up: Yes, we will be offering a limited number of sponsorships- both full and partial. For the team members that havent contacted me already, I need you to contact me no later than WEDNESDAY OCT. 23rd, 2009. I plan to have the first order in with the factory by then. All of the full sponsorships will need to be verified through the factory. Parts. I've heard a lot of complaints from customers and dealers that there weren't enough parts available- specifically conrods, rebuild kits (sleeve, piston, rod), and carbs. I will be stocking rods as a separate item, plus full rebuild kits and replacement carbs. Having spent the better part of my 20's (I'm 33 now) in tech support, I know you cant support a product without parts. I cant promise that I'll have everything right off the bat, but I plan to have the most commonly needed items. Something was mentioned above regarding carburetors- the new GX carburetors are a new design, but are not backwards compatible. Mike Clark... I'll be at RC Pro this weekend. We'll talk then. Tmizz... ask Pato for my MSN address and give me a shout. Availability. I will be offering engines and parts through both online retailers and local hobby shops. If you want your LHS to carry the new engine line, have them contact me ASAP at [email protected]. I've already talked to Kendall about filling backorders for amain, so they'll obviously be available through amain hobbies. I feel that online retailers and local hobby shops are essential to supporting our customers, and will be working to make sure that pricing and availability provided equally to both types of dealers. I look forward to working with you guys and breathing new life into the go engine line, here in the US. Sincerely, Trey Morrow Go Engine USA [email protected]
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#8634
Hey guys,
Glad to hear from you all. I'm getting a TON of email, trying to answer it all, and make headway in getting this thing off the ground.
Anyways, I've been working on the pricing structure for dealers and trying to figure the best parts to stock up on. So, I figured that this would be a good place as any to pose the question.
For those of you awaiting parts, what are you waiting on? On my list, I've got conrods (duh, and lots), a couple of cranks, piston/pin/sleeve/rod kits, a few carbs- both old and new (GX carbs dont work with the older models), various seals, bearings, etc.
Anything else?
Also, have your dealers contact me! I'm planning on placing the first order next week, and I want to be as inclusive off the bat as I can!
As for the website, I'm going to be putting up an informational site, then relying on dealers and online retailers for delivery. This way I can concentrate on the business at hand, rather than spending days coding a new site.
Glad to hear from you all. I'm getting a TON of email, trying to answer it all, and make headway in getting this thing off the ground.
Anyways, I've been working on the pricing structure for dealers and trying to figure the best parts to stock up on. So, I figured that this would be a good place as any to pose the question.
For those of you awaiting parts, what are you waiting on? On my list, I've got conrods (duh, and lots), a couple of cranks, piston/pin/sleeve/rod kits, a few carbs- both old and new (GX carbs dont work with the older models), various seals, bearings, etc.
Anything else?
Also, have your dealers contact me! I'm planning on placing the first order next week, and I want to be as inclusive off the bat as I can!
As for the website, I'm going to be putting up an informational site, then relying on dealers and online retailers for delivery. This way I can concentrate on the business at hand, rather than spending days coding a new site.
#8635
Only things that spring to mind are some seperate supplies (other then the PRS sets) of the TiNi wrist pins and some sets of wrist pin clips, as a lot of guys like to change the pin and clips when they throw a new rod in. Couple of spare cooling heads and some turbo buttons in case of the odd stripped plug thread. That should do it I reckon. Best wishes for success in your new venture. It should be a no brainer, as the GO's sell themselves
#8637
Hi everyone,
I got the 7p Gotech older version no mod, After running it in a race I open up the engine cleaned it up and when I was trying to fix it back the cornrod would't turn, I think its bend . How could this be ?

Another thing, could I use rubber grease to Lubricate all the o ring on the needles ?
I got the 7p Gotech older version no mod, After running it in a race I open up the engine cleaned it up and when I was trying to fix it back the cornrod would't turn, I think its bend . How could this be ?


Another thing, could I use rubber grease to Lubricate all the o ring on the needles ?

#8638
Hi everyone,
I got the 7p Gotech older version no mod, After running it in a race I open up the engine cleaned it up and when I was trying to fix it back the cornrod would't turn, I think its bend . How could this be ?

Another thing, could I use rubber grease to Lubricate all the o ring on the needles ?

I got the 7p Gotech older version no mod, After running it in a race I open up the engine cleaned it up and when I was trying to fix it back the cornrod would't turn, I think its bend . How could this be ?


Another thing, could I use rubber grease to Lubricate all the o ring on the needles ?


#8639
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 358
From: London (england)
Sounds about right we had to wind the LSN in the same amount from the factory. The HSN is very touchy........ we run the HSN on our MG 66's flush with maybe an hour either way.
We only idled ours for about 1min (just to warm it up) then straight on the track at about 90% race tune (we call it the honeymoon period for the first tank). Then over the next 3 -4 tanks we increase to full race tune.
Since then this engine has done 10 litres still has grreat compression at TDC, no slop on the conrod and between 9 - 10 min runtimes from a buggy.
Cheers
Mark
We only idled ours for about 1min (just to warm it up) then straight on the track at about 90% race tune (we call it the honeymoon period for the first tank). Then over the next 3 -4 tanks we increase to full race tune.
Since then this engine has done 10 litres still has grreat compression at TDC, no slop on the conrod and between 9 - 10 min runtimes from a buggy.
Cheers
Mark
Thats good to hear,
Ill try to get around 9 tanks through mine before it hits the track its done 4 now all at a steady 210-230 so im happy so far



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