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Old 10-04-2009 | 04:17 PM
  #8806  
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i agree with you grizz the gx series 5 port matched with a 2072 in a truggy is an awsome combo i know i loved mine befor my disaster hit anyway im running my mg66 in on wednesday avo when i get home then im straight into racing thursday afternoon with the state titles being ran my mg66 is going in my mbx6 buggy
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Old 10-04-2009 | 04:19 PM
  #8807  
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grizz all the best for the nationals mate
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Old 10-04-2009 | 06:38 PM
  #8808  
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
i agree with you grizz the gx series 5 port matched with a 2072 in a truggy is an awsome combo i know i loved mine befor my disaster hit anyway im running my mg66 in on wednesday avo when i get home then im straight into racing thursday afternoon with the state titles being ran my mg66 is going in my mbx6 buggy
Sweet Try and get 10 tanks through the MG66 with the foiled head, and it should be loose enough to perform pretty good. I reckon mine has taken just on 4 litres to come right up to speed. It's pretty well as lean as I can go on the top without getting lean bog now (pretty well right on 1/4 turn in from flush), and it's haulin butt

Originally Posted by Gizmatron
grixx1 mate sounds like ur lovin the MG66..slung the ceramics and new rod in mine earlier this week and took it down the track for a run today..also took out the aluminium run in shim they fit at the factory..had to richen it a fraction top and bottom as the higher compression pushed the temps to 140ºC and I prefer it at 120 ish where it was before..anyway tad richer and it's pulling like a train everywhere..just nuts.the ceramics make it spool up sooooooo quick..insane..love it!! but also tank times ,maybe a bit off full race pace but close enough, 12m47 12m49 and 12m57....Now I'm cooking..shame our season ends with the last race on oct 10th..BOOOOO!
Hi Giz - just a query on the alloy shim you took out ? The break in shim comes in the box with the motor (a .3mm or .2mm brass shim - can't remember which). It is not fitted at the factory to my knowledge. The .3mm alloy shim and the 2 x thin .1mm brass shims should stay in the motor.
If you took the alloy out, you will only have .5mm total shim including head button - might be a little much compression running 25% ?
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Old 10-04-2009 | 07:36 PM
  #8809  
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I have a 5 port that I need to replace the o ring in the crankcase at the bottom of the carb. Where can I get one or can I use another brand that may be more readily available?
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Old 10-04-2009 | 08:11 PM
  #8810  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
I have a 5 port that I need to replace the o ring in the crankcase at the bottom of the carb. Where can I get one or can I use another brand that may be more readily available?
Rex - 22Racer might have one. If not the new US GO distributor will have parts soon.
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Old 10-04-2009 | 08:30 PM
  #8811  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Rex - 22Racer might have one. If not the new US GO distributor will have parts soon.
What's the part number?
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Old 10-04-2009 | 08:36 PM
  #8812  
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If somebody is interest, i've my GO GX-5R for sale, only 5 tank of break-in.
I had a deal on a MOD JPX21, and i want to try it, and i ever have a JPX28 in my truggy, so i'am stay in the JPX line.
Engine is completly sealed with Threebond 1211
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Old 10-04-2009 | 10:32 PM
  #8813  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Rex - 22Racer might have one. If not the new US GO distributor will have parts soon.
I think it's 0004 part #, I don't have one though. I just use a sealer if it's in tough shape until I get new ones.

Rex
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Old 10-05-2009 | 02:10 AM
  #8814  
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Originally Posted by grizz1


Hi Giz - just a query on the alloy shim you took out ? The break in shim comes in the box with the motor (a .3mm or .2mm brass shim - can't remember which). It is not fitted at the factory to my knowledge. The .3mm alloy shim and the 2 x thin .1mm brass shims should stay in the motor.
If you took the alloy out, you will only have .5mm total shim including head button - might be a little much compression running 25% ?
spoke to mark about it..runs sweet without it and upped the tank times even though I had to richen just a touch to keep temps reasonable.Adds a little more torque and with temps around 120ºC and runtimes at almost 13 minutes I'm happy with it.The shim in the box is a .2 copper I think.nevr added that..no need to with the new lower initial pinch.
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Old 10-05-2009 | 04:22 AM
  #8815  
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hi Gizmatron im puting in my ceramic berings now on my 66 can i leve the alloy shim out and not do any harm and dose it run beter
cherrs jason
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Old 10-05-2009 | 06:09 AM
  #8816  
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Does anyone have any experience with either a JP4 or 2013 on a 7 port?
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Old 10-05-2009 | 07:14 AM
  #8817  
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i have used a jp4 on the 7 port provides excallent power and you will still get reasonable fuel economy , in the buggy i was getting close to 10 mins with this pipe , cant coment on the other pipe but
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Old 10-05-2009 | 08:02 AM
  #8818  
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ok thanks for the input. 10 minutes is plenty of runtime at my track.
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Old 10-05-2009 | 12:04 PM
  #8819  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
What's the part number?
Part # is OR-004

Originally Posted by Gizmatron
spoke to mark about it..runs sweet without it and upped the tank times even though I had to richen just a touch to keep temps reasonable.Adds a little more torque and with temps around 120ºC and runtimes at almost 13 minutes I'm happy with it.The shim in the box is a .2 copper I think.nevr added that..no need to with the new lower initial pinch.
Hey Giz, that's cool mate. I just didn't want to see you do any damage to the the beast. If "Guru Massive" has OK'd it, then go hard. Hmmm, I might try it myself. Are you using a medium plug with this set up ?
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Old 10-05-2009 | 12:36 PM
  #8820  
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on my other GO engines i run .5 total with 25% nitro and a medium plug , when i have finished running in my Mg 66 i was going to do run the same .2 of shims
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