I could see maybe once happening on some freak deal but 2 cases? It almost has to be something causing this, motor hitting on the chassis or something. The Go's have a little thicker case in spots and I have had to clearance things once in a while. Which car is it in?

Rex

Hey thanks for the reply guy's. I don't know the mm of the shims but it has 1 alum, and 2 copper thin one's on it now. I was asking around this weekend if 30% makes you run hotter than 20% and nobody seemed to know, I'll get a bottle of 20 and try it or mix the 2 and get 25%.

Most times if a motor gets hot the longer you run it the low speed is too rich and the high speed is too lean. (idle gap too wide) Read the tuning bible at the top of the nitro offroad page and it will explain this. There could be other things wrong as in a air leak or head or plug loose.

Rex I went through the eng friday and sealed everthing when I cut the long lsn, definantly tunes easier. I set the idle at 1mm (per tuning bible) but when I started it it was reving quite high, I did unscrew the idle just a tad maybe thats where I screwed up, should I have opened up the lsn to get the idle lower or open hsn? I think I'm close on tune and I love this eng it's just likes to get the attention, kinda like my MG (british car) I used to have. :nod: oh, forgot to say I switched to a p-3 hot a couple weeks ago and that thing sprouted new legs. Been reading the last 100 pages of this link since winter full of info. Thanks

open lsn to get idle down. 30%makes engine run cooler. DO NOT MIX THE 2 DIFFERENT NITRO'S. You will have tuning issues like never before. I had some byrons left in the tank[30%] thought what the hell, and filled with sidewinder[30%] car never ran right at all.

when I asked he said no parts support. who knows.

Crankcases split in Mugen mbx5 buggies and truggies on a regular basis. I know someone that split 3 vspec cases in a month. What car are you running? A switch to differant motor mounts will cure the problem.

hi guys, i my 3 port race makes a popping sound right after the straight.i belive is what you guys call lean bogging.would that be the low or top needle i have to adjust. my current settings are hsn is flush and my lsn is 1.25 in from flush.whats confusing me is that the engine is around 200 deg.(with my temp gun) with no body.but the engine and pipe gets real hot(burning hot).my shimming is 1 silver and 1 copper.also it was killing plugs.od77t.


thanks

what %nitro are you using? the hsn should be 1/2 turn in from flush. the lsn is about right. mine is 1-1/2 turns in. make sure your idle gap is set at about .o1mm,then do not touch it. also check for air leaks. make sure the head is on tight. and last but not least is the engine broke in? over 1 gallon. this is all for the gen5.5 engine. with the red go on front of carb. I use the od77t plugs that do not last as long as os-p3 plugs. but they do work. if you are running lean it will kill plugs. on the shims some silver were .03mm and the copper could be .02mm. I would take head off and mic the shims and if your using 20-25% nitro I would use .02mm shim on head. But before you get into all that I would check for air leaks. I fill the sink with water,get about 2-3 feet of fuel line hook it up to fuel inlet,open carb slide and with your thumb over the exhaust port and finger over carb inlet, put engine in water,blow through tube and watch for leaks. there are other ways of doing it but this way with you holding engine you can put one side of the carb in water then the other side. you will be surprised at what you may see leaking. If it is a small air bubbles coming from front seal don't worry about it to much. they all pretty much do that.

ok won't mix them, thanks for the warning. I'll reset idle and lsn and go from there, might try 20% to see what it does also. Have a great week.;)

a little help
 

ok guys i have a few qustions as u know im new to nitro

ok i just have picked up a go motor its got diffent wirting on he head to my gen 5 5 port, the head is still silver and got go 21 on it and takes std plugs.

now the guy told me hes only put 5 tanks tho it so i thought illd run it in using the heat method shane told me so.... tin foil round the head and i put 2 idel tanks tho it sitting at 200 to 220 and the high and low neddles are flush. now evey time i give i alittle gas even a small amout it will just stop????

also recvier packs and glow starters how many amps to u charge them at???

cheers jeff

sounds like it could be a gen 3 or earlier if it has a standard plug or it might not be a genuine NZ import. if it is, the flush settings may be a bit rich and thats why your cutting out as the botom end of your engine is flooding, try leaning the bottom 1/8 of a turn as see how you go.

as for reciever packs - glow drivers it depends on the battery size.. I generally charge them at the rated size ie 1500 mah reciever pack charge at 1.5 amps

Adrian:tire:

I agree don't mix the nitro but the higher nitro will make the engine run hotter not cooler which is why a cooler plug is recommended so it won't burn out..I'm prepared to be corrected on this by an expert but higher nitro%=higher combustion temp....as far as I know..

recommended charge for nimh etc is 1C ie as said 1.5A for a 1500mah battery...if this gets them more than just warm to the touch drop to maybe 1.2A (this is what I use for my 1600mah packs) heat is your batteries enemy and will decrease the life expectancy rapidly..

I haven't had a GO engine (and I've had them since gen3) which will even idle for a tank without screwing in the lsn 1 turn..try revving the engine a little with the glow heater still attached..means you won't drown the plug if it's running ultra rich..if you get a huge cloud of smoke as the engine clears you can be sure the lsn is waaaay rich..

LOL i should of looked in the box.

i found the operating instructions

it says

the high neddle should be 3.25 - 3.5 turns out from fully in. (mines flush)

the low neddle should be 1 turn in from flush

and they say its a typical starting point so should i try that?

I would leave the hsn flush but I said I always have to turn my lsn in 1 turn to start..I prefer the flush setting guide for needles as turning them right in can break the tip of the needle off in the housing..if you must do it this way turn it in very gently just till it touches bottom...but flush hsn and 1 turn in for lsn is my standard start point..

ok ill leave it and just lean the bottom abit so it at lest move a little

i also found the motor i was talking about

http://www.go-engine.com/in-products...15P-P820SG.htm

yeah its a bit differnt to my gen5 5 port but it will do for a spear.