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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

revo_race 11-24-2007 12:41 AM


Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson (Post 3898270)
remember to use the extra shim for break in...

I got it in there...also got the engine mounted in the truggy today. Just waiting on my Dynamite 086 pipe and ACE 1015 steering servo right now. Here's a pic, I can't wait to break it in tomorrow!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...T/DSC01304.jpg

I'm a little bit worried about the gear mesh right now (it seems quite a bit too loose) so I'm going to have to play with that for a little bit I think. Also the steering just seems to have a lot of slop in it so I might try to figure out a way to get rid of some of the play in that too...but for breaking in the engine tomorrow everything should be good enough.

grizz1 11-24-2007 01:33 AM

Truggy looks sweet revo_race :nod: Looking forward to hearing how that .28 goes for you. I wouldn't worry about the steering slop too much, I have yet to find a truggy that is tight in the front end anyway.
Seriously thinking about a .28 for my truggy now. That .21 I bought looks and goes so good in the buggy it would be a shame to take it out :blush:
Looks like another toy on the way !!

Jason Halvorson 11-24-2007 04:40 AM


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 3898626)
Truggy looks sweet revo_race :nod: Looking forward to hearing how that .28 goes for you. I wouldn't worry about the steering slop too much, I have yet to find a truggy that is tight in the front end anyway.
Seriously thinking about a .28 for my truggy now. That .21 I bought looks and goes so good in the buggy it would be a shame to take it out :blush:
Looks like another toy on the way !!

the .28 for your truggy would be a great choice...leave the .21 in the bug and show the trug some .28 love...

KDub75 11-24-2007 10:13 AM

I just purchased a 5 port and there is no serial # on the case. Does this mean that it is an early model? Anything I should be aware of if this is an early production model? For instance the Carb.....Thanks.

Rocket42 11-24-2007 10:31 AM

Its possible that you purchased a stolen engine off of ebay and someone ground the serial number off, Where did you purchase your engine?

Maximo 11-24-2007 10:44 AM

.21 vs .28 debate ?

My veiw is it all comes down to traction... if you run on a grippy track, then likely you can use the low end power advantage of the .28... If you run on a looser track, then the smoother higher revving .21's are better suited...

AK-driver 11-24-2007 10:52 AM

28
 
Hi Guys I think you will like the 28 6 port in your truggy I used one in my CRT in our last race and it had some good snort in the infield section but had to go up one tooth on the CB to a 14 to get my straitaway speed back because it dosn't turn as many rpm's as my V-spec I also went to a 7mm carb insert and a dynomyte 086 pipe its was kind of thirsty with 9mm insert in. Mark,

KDub75 11-24-2007 11:10 AM


Originally Posted by Rocket42 (Post 3899400)
Its possible that you purchased a stolen engine off of ebay and someone ground the serial number off, Where did you purchase your engine?

I purchased it from a local guy here in Southern California....but there doesn't seem to be any grinding that I can see.

Rocket42 11-24-2007 11:20 AM

Its could be a older version, whatcolor is the carb. if its silver around the HSN it is the new plastic carb. If it is all black then it is the older alumn. carb.

If its the new carb I would reccomend pressure testing it and sealing any leaks, if its the old carb. You can send it in and it will be replaced.

nta01 11-24-2007 01:07 PM

After reading all the good things about the GOs, I decided to get the new 5P Turbo from Amain. I did the proper breakin 5 heat cycles with the additional shim. I took it out to the track last night and ran it with the shim to do the final break ins then took it out. It seems to have potential but it would mean that I have to lean it out and running it hot. My LSN is set at 1/2 to 1 turn in from flush and HSN is between 3 and 3 1/2. I was consistently running in the 220-230 and got as high as 260 on an empty tank. It just doesn't want to clear up and it smokes like a coal burning plant. I have a major bog and it takes a long time to spool up. I am running 30% sidewinder, OSP3 plug and JP4 pipe. I have a 086 and 053 coming. I can't believe that the JP4 is that bad. I ran the JP4 with my OS and it works great. Do I just lean on it until it wants to clear up even though I risk of running it in the high 200s? Any sugestions?

Thanks,
Tom

Jason Halvorson 11-24-2007 01:20 PM


Originally Posted by nta01 (Post 3899727)
After reading all the good things about the GOs, I decided to get the new 5P Turbo from Amain. I did the proper breakin 5 heat cycles with the additional shim. I took it out to the track last night and ran it with the shim to do the final break ins then took it out. It seems to have potential but it would mean that I have to lean it out and running it hot. My LSN is set at 1/2 to 1 turn in from flush and HSN is between 3 and 3 1/2. I was consistently running in the 220-230 and got as high as 260 on an empty tank. It just doesn't want to clear up and it smokes like a coal burning plant. I have a major bog and it takes a long time to spool up. I am running 30% sidewinder, OSP3 plug and JP4 pipe. I have a 086 and 053 coming. I can't believe that the JP4 is that bad. I ran the JP4 with my OS and it works great. Do I just lean on it until it wants to clear up even though I risk of running it in the high 200s? Any sugestions?

Thanks,
Tom

Tom i would put the shim back in and run it until the mechanical pinch comes out of the engine...you will know when the pinch finely comes out cause the temps will make a big drop, and it will be hard to get the engine above 210...then you can remove the extra shim and lean the engine out and you will have tons of power and great run times...

salteen 11-24-2007 03:05 PM


Originally Posted by revo_race (Post 3898580)
I got it in there...also got the engine mounted in the truggy today. Just waiting on my Dynamite 086 pipe and ACE 1015 steering servo right now. Here's a pic, I can't wait to break it in tomorrow!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...T/DSC01304.jpg

I'm a little bit worried about the gear mesh right now (it seems quite a bit too loose) so I'm going to have to play with that for a little bit I think. Also the steering just seems to have a lot of slop in it so I might try to figure out a way to get rid of some of the play in that too...but for breaking in the engine tomorrow everything should be good enough.

woot! truck looks awesome man. Can't wait to see it action. I'm pretty worry out from today but I might have to get out to the track tomorrow to support team Go :lol:

salteen 11-24-2007 03:05 PM


Originally Posted by revo_race (Post 3898580)
I got it in there...also got the engine mounted in the truggy today. Just waiting on my Dynamite 086 pipe and ACE 1015 steering servo right now. Here's a pic, I can't wait to break it in tomorrow!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...T/DSC01304.jpg

I'm a little bit worried about the gear mesh right now (it seems quite a bit too loose) so I'm going to have to play with that for a little bit I think. Also the steering just seems to have a lot of slop in it so I might try to figure out a way to get rid of some of the play in that too...but for breaking in the engine tomorrow everything should be good enough.

woot! truck looks awesome man. Can't wait to see it action. I'm pretty worry out from today but I might have to get out to the track tomorrow to support team Go :lol:

nta01 11-24-2007 05:48 PM


Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson (Post 3899742)
Tom i would put the shim back in and run it until the mechanical pinch comes out of the engine...you will know when the pinch finely comes out cause the temps will make a big drop, and it will be hard to get the engine above 210...then you can remove the extra shim and lean the engine out and you will have tons of power and great run times...

Jason,
Thanks for the advice. Put the shim back in and took it out to the track and ran it for 4 tanks. Ran great once I leaned it and was in the 210-220s. Sold:). This engine rocks. The only thing I see that can be improved on is the rubber seal for the carb throttle. It is to stiff and keeps the carb from returning to a closed position. I am using return springs and I still have to put on the brakes to get it to idle correctly. Gonna work on that a little more.

Thanks, Tom

Jason Halvorson 11-24-2007 05:54 PM


Originally Posted by nta01 (Post 3900173)
Jason,
Thanks for the advice. Put the shim back in and took it out to the track and ran it for 4 tanks. Ran great once I leaned it and was in the 210-220s. Sold:). This engine rocks. The only thing I see that can be improved on is the rubber seal for the carb throttle. It is to stiff and keeps the carb from returning to a closed position. I am using return springs and I still have to put on the brakes to get it to idle correctly. Gonna work on that a little more.

Thanks, Tom

you may need a stronger throttle servo...


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