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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 3896054)
Ran 5 port with shim fitted tonight. Big difference !! Behaves a lot more like a fully run in motor. Tunes easier and seems to run nice right through the rev range. Like salteen said, the difference is like night and day. I am much happier now :blush:
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Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson
(Post 3893860)
remember to remove the shim when the engine breaks in, you will know this cause the temps will go way down and then its time to remove the extra shim...
Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson
(Post 3894757)
your engine is already shimmed for 30%, and the extra shim is ONLY for break in, and NOT for running 30%...repeat the engine IS shimmed for 30% out of the box!!!
Mine only has 2 shims, 1 thin and 1 thick (i assume .1 and .2mm). It's been that way from day one running 25%-30% nitro with temps usually in the 190-230 range and i've got about 4 gal on it now.. I don't remember Russ ever saying to remove one after break in before But i think I remember someone saying before that shimming should be in the .6mm range...So more than anything i'm confused as hell now.. |
there are 2 installed when you get the motor. we're talking about the third shim that comes with the motor uninstalled which is to be used for break in and then removed after break in.
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Paradox your engine is shimmed correctly, after you ordered your engine the factory started including a extra .2mm shim. A lot of people where having problems with the break in due to the high metal pinch. If you add the extra shim during break in it makes break in much easier. After the engine is broken in the extra shim can be removed. You don't want to remove any shims until maybe after the 6 gallon mark the thin .1mm shim can be removed.
Paradoxmaker is old school he purchased one of the first 5 Go engines sold in the U.S., I have appreciated your support from day one, thanks. |
well it's been since labor day that i have read this thread, i sold my eight to get into electric racing. i did not have much fun racing electric, so i'm getting back into nitro:nod:
i have a turbo 7port and loved every minute of it, i can not wait to get it running again. i need to get a pipe to get more low end, is 053 pipe still the pipe to have for this motor, or has someone else found a hotter pipe to put on |
My 5 port was from a new batch into New Zealand. This batch of motors are the first ones to be sold here with a country code and seriel number stamped on the side of the engine mount ( ie: NZ0000015). The engine came with only 1 shim pre installed and a second much thicker shim which I am assuming is the break in shim. Any idea why the different number of shims pre installed ?
I donīt know what size the pre installed shim is as it doesn't mention it anywhere in the enclosed paper work. On a different note. Until recently we have only been allowed to legally race .21 motors in truggy class here. As of 2008 .28 motors will be legal for racing. What are some of the veiws on .28 vs .21 in truggies. A few guys have been racing the Go tech .28 6 port in non sanctioned events and it seems a really wicked motor for the heavier truggies. I actually purchased my 5 port to use in a truggy, but now the rules have changed I might use it in my buggy and think about a .28 6 port for the truggy ??? |
Originally Posted by vr6
(Post 3897132)
well it's been since labor day that i have read this thread, i sold my eight to get into electric racing. i did not have much fun racing electric, so i'm getting back into nitro:nod:
i have a turbo 7port and loved every minute of it, i can not wait to get it running again. i need to get a pipe to get more low end, is 053 pipe still the pipe to have for this motor, or has someone else found a hotter pipe to put on You will be most happy with the 053 at indoor LH this winter. You may even want to try the Dynamite 007 torque pipe but I think the 053 will give plenty of bottom end. |
satoch- thanks for the input. i will be racing at leisure hours and maybe an indoor track in iowa, so i hope that the 053 will work in iowa also, both track are tight high bite tracks
do you still have that 5 port motor, or do you have a new one. i'm thinking about getting a new motor, but wanted to HOPEFULLY:blush: try out a 5 port sometime when i see you at lh |
I still have the 5 port but have a 3 port coming next week also as a practice motor. I also have a turbo button for both coming.
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Originally Posted by Rocket42
(Post 3896971)
Paradox your engine is shimmed correctly, after you ordered your engine the factory started including a extra .2mm shim. A lot of people where having problems with the break in due to the high metal pinch. If you add the extra shim during break in it makes break in much easier. After the engine is broken in the extra shim can be removed. You don't want to remove any shims until maybe after the 6 gallon mark the thin .1mm shim can be removed.
Paradoxmaker is old school he purchased one of the first 5 Go engines sold in the U.S., I have appreciated your support from day one, thanks. Well I'm on my 4th gal now (i know for over a year of having the engine, thats pretty pathetic) with the same conrod, same sleeve, same piston, same bearings and the updated carb that i bought a while back...I've got backup parts for when they do finally wear out....when ever that is :D:D:D |
Originally Posted by vr6
(Post 3897132)
well it's been since labor day that i have read this thread, i sold my eight to get into electric racing. i did not have much fun racing electric, so i'm getting back into nitro:nod:
i have a turbo 7port and loved every minute of it, i can not wait to get it running again. i need to get a pipe to get more low end, is 053 pipe still the pipe to have for this motor, or has someone else found a hotter pipe to put on |
I tried the OS 2050 on my Go 5 port and must say this is the pipe I`m sticking with.......I am averaging easy 10 minute run times per tank...I was running a OS 2060.With the 2060 my run times where around 8-9 minutes.I very,very little top end and gained more bottom....The track I run on is very large and is a on throttle track.....Oh and my 5 port is not modded and was running rich.....I believe I could still lean it out some more(many clouds of smoke)
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 3897182)
On a different note. Until recently we have only been allowed to legally race .21 motors in truggy class here. As of 2008 .28 motors will be legal for racing. What are some of the veiws on .28 vs .21 in truggies. A few guys have been racing the Go tech .28 6 port in non sanctioned events and it seems a really wicked motor for the heavier truggies. I actually purchased my 5 port to use in a truggy, but now the rules have changed I might use it in my buggy and think about a .28 6 port for the truggy ???
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Originally Posted by revo_race
(Post 3898268)
I just got my .28 six port today for my Losi 8T. I'll have it out for testing on Sunday and let you know my initial thoughts on it.
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Originally Posted by rossoh10
(Post 3897925)
I tried the OS 2050 on my Go 5 port and must say this is the pipe I`m sticking with.......I am averaging easy 10 minute run times per tank...I was running a OS 2060.With the 2060 my run times where around 8-9 minutes.I very,very little top end and gained more bottom....The track I run on is very large and is a on throttle track.....Oh and my 5 port is not modded and was running rich.....I believe I could still lean it out some more(many clouds of smoke)
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