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Originally Posted by revo_race
(Post 3888806)
What fuel are most of you Go Engine guys using? I'm currently using 30% Byrons race fuel but have been considering the switch to TQ Fuel. Can't wait for my Go .28, it should be here in a few days! It just so happens I'm in need of a gallon of fuel as well, so I figured now would be the perfect time to make a switch if I was going to do so. The price difference is 8 bucks though...not sure if it's worth that much or not. Also, which head shim should I be using with 30% fuel(or does it not matter)? If I'm not mistaken I think I read that there were 2 shims included with the engines.
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Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson
(Post 3889205)
im running byrons 30% and would not want to run anything else...the Go .28 is shimmed for 30%...the extra shim is just for break in use only...you add the shim until the engine is fully broke in then you remove it again...
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Originally Posted by revo_race
(Post 3889247)
Cool stuff, thanks for the info. I guess I'll just stick with the Byron's 30% then especially since it's so much cheaper than the TQ. I'm guessing you're using a medium or cold plug with it?
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Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson
(Post 3889277)
if the Go engines were turbo plugs they do not come with plugs, but if they are standard plugs like the .28 the engine will come with 2 plugs...
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Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson
(Post 3889255)
your new .28 will come with 2 Go #5 plugs, and they work great...
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Originally Posted by revo_race
(Post 3889263)
The 2 Go engines we sold a few weeks ago didn't come with plugs, so I'm not holding my breath...planning on buying fresh ones at the moment. Is there another plug on the market similar to the Go #5?
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Originally Posted by revo_race
(Post 3888806)
What fuel are most of you Go Engine guys using? I'm currently using 30% Byrons race fuel but have been considering the switch to TQ Fuel. Can't wait for my Go .28, it should be here in a few days! It just so happens I'm in need of a gallon of fuel as well, so I figured now would be the perfect time to make a switch if I was going to do so. The price difference is 8 bucks though...not sure if it's worth that much or not. Also, which head shim should I be using with 30% fuel(or does it not matter)? If I'm not mistaken I think I read that there were 2 shims included with the engines.
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Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson
(Post 3877162)
i would remove the carb and silicone it on...this should help with the carb wanting to rotate...
Jason thanks for your suggestion I did seal the carb as well. Again these motors are simply amazing, a true bargain! Guy Huey |
Originally Posted by GuyHuey
(Post 3891394)
Well I had a chance to look at the carb a little further and the fix turned out to be pretty simple. It turns out the pinch screw that hold the carb in wasn't clamping enough, so I took it off and filed the inside of the two sides, maybe a couple of thousandths. Know it clamps good and tight.
Jason thanks for your suggestion I did seal the carb as well. Again these motors are simply amazing, a true bargain! Guy Huey Anyone else notice that the new STS motor has a carb that looks like the Go Tech carb except it's a 3 needle? |
how are the go.28 3 port
any body have experience |
Originally Posted by GuyHuey
(Post 3891394)
Well I had a chance to look at the carb a little further and the fix turned out to be pretty simple. It turns out the pinch screw that hold the carb in wasn't clamping enough, so I took it off and filed the inside of the two sides, maybe a couple of thousandths. Know it clamps good and tight.
Jason thanks for your suggestion I did seal the carb as well. Again these motors are simply amazing, a true bargain! Guy Huey |
Hi all - I'm 18 tanks (2.5 litres) into my new 5 Port .21 and have a couple of questions.
Took truggy out to the track today and gave the Go tech it's first proper run on track (up until now it's been slow running in and some 1/2 to 3/4 throttle stuff on the last few tanks before today). Engine still seemed pretty tight and not overly responsive. I fiddled with the tune a bit, but couldn't really get it to pull in the lower rev range all that well. I'm sure the tune was not too far off. I am running a JP-3 pipe which I am thinking might be part of the problem (Dynamite 086 and 053 on the way). I have read in here that the JP-3 is not the best pipe for the 5 port. Is the engine likely to still be "tight" and sluggish after 2.5 litres ? and would the pipe make that much difference ? All my other engines have been sweet after 12 - 15 tanks, but this Go Tech is still nearly impossible to turn over by hand, with enough pinch to jam it solid on the starter box still. This is obviously my first Go Tech engine so I am a little curious as to how everybody else found them during break in and early running. ;) |
Mine took 8 litres at least before it settled down, it used alot of fuel until then per tank but ive had quiet a few litres thru it now and its realy opening up with plenty of power still alot of pinch but i can turn it by hand now.
They are a very tight motor from new and take some time before they loosen up properly, but when they do you will notice the difference and it will get better fuel ecconomy. Bear with it, i run mine at about 130- 135 degrees and it loves it. I run the standard Hyper 8 Pro exhaust, if you dont have the right exhaust it can make it a bit of a slouch, but if it is still tight like you say give it some time before you think of a new pipe. |
I broke mine in using the Adam Drake method as shown in the Nov. 2007 issue of Extreme RC Cars magazine. My new P/S was race ready after 9 tanks.
I've got a new 3 port Sport engine coming next week and will be breaking it in the same way. I do, however, change the rod after about 2 gallons-just for piece of mind. |
Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson
(Post 3893787)
are you using the extra shim the engine came with???
I'm racing Saturday and can't wait to see how the Go does against the competition.:nod: |
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