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Old 05-25-2005, 03:31 AM
  #15181  
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THE DOCTOR
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92 Posts Since Nov 2003 Yesterday, 08:47 PM Bubbles in fuel line | Post #1

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When I go out the engine runs fine for the whole tank. When I come in to refuel the engine will stall and I see bubbles in the fuel line. I have the fuel line going around the back of the engine as I have all last year and never had any problems. This year it is a spec. engine and I put new fuel line on it. I was wondering if I need to run the fuel line in front of the engine. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Old 05-25-2005, 03:46 AM
  #15182  
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Originally Posted by BundyMan
Fukuda's car in the recently concluded Asia Mugen Cup which was held in Malaysia from May 20-22. See any changes??
TM Springs on the shocks
New upper front wishbones
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Old 05-25-2005, 03:49 AM
  #15183  
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is their a real date for the mtx4
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Old 05-25-2005, 03:53 AM
  #15184  
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Originally Posted by ilaybrk
is their a real date for the mtx4
nothing official. It will be running at the European Championships in August according to Mugen Europe. Dont think it will be released before that.
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Old 05-25-2005, 06:21 AM
  #15185  
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Originally Posted by gentleman81
thanks alot, using the stock parts dont i need to loosen the spring adjust nut to get a snappier first gear?

i want to get the prospec clutch setup i've been looking at it for a while.

do u know the part numbers on the clutch shims that go by the bearing, i cant remember does the stock clutch have shims there or just by the thrust bearing?
No, loosening the nut will actually give you worse acceleration. The reason you tighten the nut and put the lighter weights and harder spring is to make the engine have to rev up higher before the clutch engages. Think of it like popping the clutch on a real car. Our engines have more power as the RPM's go up. So the later you engage the clutch, the "harder" it will engage. You of course can go overboard with it. Too tight and the engine is like an on/off switch, it might be hard to come onto the throttle smoothly coming out of turns.

Use the same shims like the ones that control the gap on the thrust bearing. It doesn't tell you to use shims before the inside bearing on the manual. If you go to the MyTsn site, there's a Centax 1 setup guide that tells you this info about the shims. Mugen has like a bag with all kinds of shims, you can find them there, but many other brands make these engine shims too, just check with your LHS. Remember you want them really thin, so you can fine tune it. Good luck.
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Old 05-26-2005, 06:34 AM
  #15186  
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so do u recommend the prospec style clutch parts? do they alow for better tunning options? and when i shim the bearing will i have to adjust the amount of shims by the thrust bearing?
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Old 05-26-2005, 06:58 AM
  #15187  
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Originally Posted by gentleman81
so do u recommend the prospec style clutch parts? do they alow for better tunning options? and when i shim the bearing will i have to adjust the amount of shims by the thrust bearing?
Just think of it like another tuning option. I just think it's nice to be able to play with setups. Clutch setups are key for the really fast guys. I live in Miami and always see the Serpent USA guys messing around with different clutch options until they get optimum performance.

You will probably have to remove some shims from the trust bearing, just make sure you set the endplay accordingly. Hope this helps

Here's that link on MyTsn for Centax setup. THat's one thing that's great about Serpent that no one compares to. Their explanations and setup guides.
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10534

Last edited by gonzoY5; 05-26-2005 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:00 PM
  #15188  
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Hello there...

Havin Problems with the clutch springs...
From seeing them I can't tell which one is the harder or the softer...
They seem to have same tension(hand feel) and same colour...

About the Ackerman, is it right to say the A one gives the kmost steering?entry part? exit part of the turn?

thanks in advance...
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:06 PM
  #15189  
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Originally Posted by Bandeira
Hello there...

Havin Problems with the clutch springs...
From seeing them I can't tell which one is the harder or the softer...
They seem to have same tension(hand feel) and same colour...

About the Ackerman, is it right to say the A one gives the kmost steering?entry part? exit part of the turn?

thanks in advance...
The silver is the Hard, the gold is the stock.

I'm not so sure about the ackerman. A is supposed to have aggressive turn in, but I don't feel it, maybe it's my driving style, I don't know. I like the B the best. Never tried the C
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:08 PM
  #15190  
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Originally Posted by gonzoY5
The silver is the Hard, the gold is the stock.

I'm not so sure about the ackerman. A is supposed to have aggressive turn in, but I don't feel it, maybe it's my driving style, I don't know. I like the B the best. Never tried the C
About The colours... I do know that... I think my springs are just too old... I can't tell which one is the gold, which one is the silver...

As for the ackerman... I found the B smoother... But it seemed to lack in turning... I thing it would be nice in a track with not so many sharp turns
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Old 05-26-2005, 08:00 PM
  #15191  
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looks like you put 30mm tires in the frount insted of 26mm
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:14 PM
  #15192  
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do anyone have a good droop setting for the mtx3?
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:26 PM
  #15193  
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Thumbs up droop

1 in thr front
5 in the rear
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:33 PM
  #15194  
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u must run a very low ride height?
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Old 05-26-2005, 11:39 PM
  #15195  
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Originally Posted by bleach1
Just a few quick questions.

I have asked this once before but i will ask it again. Im building a front diff and am just wondering what oil i should run in it. I am using 30,000wt in the rear and the track is tight with medium grip.

Also a question about the rear blocks. On a tight medium grip very smoothe track would the A block ussually be recommended? Is the A block generally used on smoothe tracks regardless of weather its high or low speed?
..
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