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Old 08-08-2004, 06:59 PM   #13681
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
I used to have the clutch slippage problem until DATA modified this clutch shoe for me. Problem solved.



takes away weight, engage later; hence, grab harder.

best,
god damn it punk ! how many times do i have to tell you this ? it has notthing to do with the weight of the shoe.
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Old 08-08-2004, 10:17 PM   #13682
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e420x > I tie the wires up with small tie wraps, and try and position them so they're inside where the open area is next to the battery pack is.

Like someone said earlier, I think it was Ed Delgado, that the best thing to do is shorten the leads. I dont see why the manufacturers dont put short leads on car servos...the new Futaba servo I just bought jas a 12 inch lead.
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Old 08-08-2004, 10:30 PM   #13683
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Quote:
Originally posted by dragoneuh
How do you know if your clutch is slipping?
What is the sign?
I have the same question........can anyone help?
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:35 AM   #13684
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Quote:
Originally posted by challenger
I have the same question........can anyone help?
engine revs with poor acceleration
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:07 AM   #13685
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besides clutch slipping there is another common problem which i think most ppl has encountered.

it is when your clutch nut tighten itself due too impropper installation. causing your clutch to enganged very late....
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Old 08-09-2004, 05:28 AM   #13686
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcabj
besides clutch slipping there is another common problem which i think most ppl has encountered.

it is when your clutch nut tighten itself due too impropper installation. causing your clutch to enganged very late....
what are some things to look out for when installing a clutch?
I came across one problem when installing my clutch with the thrust bearing i have no idea which part faces the engine!!! is the inner cage of the thrust bearing face to the engine or out? what will happen if this is done incorrectly?
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Old 08-09-2004, 07:20 AM   #13687
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BrainTeased, look out for proper gapping. The bell should have a tiny bit of play. Maybe .2 - .4 mm of play and should spin freely. If it's being held up by the clutch shoes, then you need to shim it until you have enough gap as described.

Make sure you use locktite for the clutch nut. It'll help keep your settings.

I keep my thust bearing with the open cage in. In my rookie season, I never paid close attention to this bearing and replaced it 4x. After I started using black grease on it after every 2-3 races, I never had to change it again. And these little suckers are expensive and sometimes hard to find. The open-cage-in helps to retain the grease, but if you grease it enough, it probably doesn't matter.
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Old 08-09-2004, 08:50 AM   #13688
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Anyone have any comments on the new ofna starter box? Is the 750 motor enough to turn an Mugen x12? I have 2 -3000 battery packs?
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:09 AM   #13689
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You shouldnt have a problem as long as you have fully charged batteries.
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Old 08-09-2004, 10:08 AM   #13690
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lesser contact area?

Quote:
Originally posted by Data
god damn it punk ! how many times do i have to tell you this ? it has notthing to do with the weight of the shoe.
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Old 08-09-2004, 11:29 AM   #13691
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Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Eddie,

What did DATA use to cut the shoe? It looks great!
Scissors
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Old 08-09-2004, 12:21 PM   #13692
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He put it on the drill machine with his technique to cut both side evenly.

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Eddie,

What did DATA use to cut the shoe? It looks great!
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Old 08-09-2004, 05:53 PM   #13693
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As for clutch installation..I need help

Just breaking in my motor tonight and realized the clutch must be too tight since the engine would shut off everytime the car hit the ground, and on the starter box the wheels kept spinning.


So When I install the clutch bell it seems it stops the bell from moving when tight. I tried loosening , but it would have to be to loose for it to let the bell spin freely. I dont think its a spacer problem since I tried different spacers. Should the shaft penetrate thru both bell bearings completely?
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:53 AM   #13694
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
BrainTeased, look out for proper gapping. The bell should have a tiny bit of play. Maybe .2 - .4 mm of play and should spin freely. If it's being held up by the clutch shoes, then you need to shim it until you have enough gap as described.

Make sure you use locktite for the clutch nut. It'll help keep your settings.

I keep my thust bearing with the open cage in. In my rookie season, I never paid close attention to this bearing and replaced it 4x. After I started using black grease on it after every 2-3 races, I never had to change it again. And these little suckers are expensive and sometimes hard to find. The open-cage-in helps to retain the grease, but if you grease it enough, it probably doesn't matter.
Thank you very much!!!
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:36 PM   #13695
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Default 710 or XRay shocks on MTX-3

Has anyone run or have knowledge of a racer, running the shocks from the serpent 710 or Hudy Xray on the mugen with success.

Last edited by vadn1; 08-10-2004 at 05:31 PM.
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