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Old 05-29-2005, 09:21 PM   #15211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
sorry guys for this question off the topic but I'm in need of a backup receiver for my airtronics mx3 radio, I was thinking for the Hitec HIS-03MK Receiver Single Conversion 75MHz, but I'd like to know if my cristals from my mx3 fm radio will work fine on this receiver since it is universal, also anyone has tried performance products crystals?
Don't know about the Hitec. But as an FYI, I know a Futaba receiver will work with your MX3. Good luck
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Old 05-29-2005, 10:00 PM   #15212
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Hi

When rebuilding your shocks how much rebound should you get?

Thanx
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Old 05-29-2005, 10:48 PM   #15213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROVK
Hi

When rebuilding your shocks how much rebound should you get?

Thanx
about half piston out after compression.
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:29 AM   #15214
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Thanks for the shock answer

got another , querey ,,

whre can i buy

Kfactory Part no K1319T mtx-3 5th middle body post.

Cheers
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:43 AM   #15215
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Hi you can find it here:



http://www.the-border.com/search.php?mode=search
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Old 05-30-2005, 03:41 AM   #15216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
about half piston out after compression.
so if there is only little movement? thanks can't see no leak anywhere though...
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Old 05-30-2005, 02:50 PM   #15217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
I use 3x10 cap screws for the engine and 3x10 countersunk titanium screws for the mounts, it works fine and you'll never strip a gear again.

The problem is between the mounts and the main chassis...
The steel screws aren't doing the job... I guess the Ti ones won't either..
I was thinking of something heavier...
I'm gonna try swapping engines... as the JP maybe vibrating too much on the looooong 285ft straightway

But thanks for the input...
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Old 05-30-2005, 10:28 PM   #15218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
about half piston out after compression.
so if there is only little movement ????
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Old 05-31-2005, 05:59 AM   #15219
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Few answers to some questions in the last few pages:

Springs:

Purple - Light Blue - Blue - Grey - White
(Softest) to (Hardest)

Rear Blocks:
A Block is more for high bite tracks. It has Lower Rear RC which gives more roll ensuring better traction.
C Block is more for low bite tracks. It has Higher Rear RC which gives less roll and therefore making the car more stable in low traction conditions.
Use B blocks if you're uncertain.

Ackerman:
Have found that 'A' gives more on-power steering whilst 'C' gives more off- power steering. And again 'B' is the safest choice if you're unsure. Personally i find 'C' superb for my driving style. This is really a driver preference and how are the other components of the car setup. i.e. caster, shock positions, damping, etc.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-31-2005, 06:02 AM   #15220
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Just another point...on rebuilding shocks and rebound rate from the dampers.

Generally the left and right should have the same rebound rate when compressed whether for the front or rear.

The faster the rebound = the faster the reaction of the dampers.
The slower the rebound = the softer the reaction of the dampers.

THis is determined by how fast you screw the shock caps at the top after refilling with oil. Faster screwing motion = faster rebound rate.
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Old 05-31-2005, 06:07 AM   #15221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandeira
The problem is between the mounts and the main chassis...
The steel screws aren't doing the job... I guess the Ti ones won't either..
I was thinking of something heavier...
I'm gonna try swapping engines... as the JP maybe vibrating too much on the looooong 285ft straightway

But thanks for the input...
Bandeira, I have a racing pal who had similar problems to yours, for months. He checked eveything but couldn't find out what was causing the spur to strip. Finally he found out that the pinion was actually worned and was too sharp for the spur. You should also check you 2-speed shaft if its bent. this might cause inconsistent meshing between the spur and pinion.

Hope you can solve this.
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Old 05-31-2005, 06:09 AM   #15222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj
so if there is only little movement ????
This mainly depends on the viscosity of the shock oil and piton holes. Otherwise is could be because there is something binding un-naturally. check the internals of the shock.
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Old 05-31-2005, 03:31 PM   #15223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Bandeira, I have a racing pal who had similar problems to yours, for months. He checked eveything but couldn't find out what was causing the spur to strip. Finally he found out that the pinion was actually worned and was too sharp for the spur. You should also check you 2-speed shaft if its bent. this might cause inconsistent meshing between the spur and pinion.

Hope you can solve this.

Thanks for the input...
The pinion is brand new!
and so is the shaft...(My last steel one bent, this one is Titanium, even though I don't like very much Ti things...)
I'm really desperate... For next race i'm getting the mtx2 mounts... 1.0 module(even if my ratios get kind of tall) and changing engine...
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:58 AM   #15224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Few answers to some questions in the last few pages:

Rear Blocks:
A Block is more for high bite tracks. It has Lower Rear RC which gives more roll ensuring better traction.
C Block is more for low bite tracks. It has Higher Rear RC which gives less roll and therefore making the car more stable in low traction conditions.
Use B blocks if you're uncertain.

Hope this helps.
I think you got it wrong for low bite and high bite track applications:

A rear block = give you the most body roll = more grip possibility

B rear block = pick this one

C rear block = give you the least body roll = slightly less grip.

Generally A block is preferable for drivers who want the most rear grip, while C block is suitable for drivers who want rear tires to slide at medium or low speed corners. B block is neutral.
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Old 06-01-2005, 02:13 AM   #15225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I think you got it wrong for low bite and high bite track applications:

A rear block = give you the most body roll = more grip possibility

B rear block = pick this one

C rear block = give you the least body roll = slightly less grip.

Generally A block is preferable for drivers who want the most rear grip, while C block is suitable for drivers who want rear tires to slide at medium or low speed corners. B block is neutral.
You have just repeated what i had said in essence!

I've also given the application of blocks as guide (low bite vs high bite application) - go try it out and you'll know.
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