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Old 05-01-2005, 11:40 PM   #15031
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Default Re: Clutch Help!

Quote:
Originally posted by Toster
Ok, I am still kind of new to this whole Nitro touring car thing. I have the mtx-3 prospec, but I am having a heck of a time getting the clutch working. The car goes and all, but it feels like I have a 25,000 rpm stall converter in there. I mean I really have to wrap it up to get it to move, and wow, when it engages it really hits hard. At first a couple of the locals thought it was something in the two speed and that it was just launching into second. I have played with it and got it somewhat drivable so I know that the car is revving up to about 25k and then engages hard, pulls first gear, and then jumps in to second. I have that part working good, it is just the engine clutch. I have the "stock" pro spec clutch (grey shoe).
Hahaha..... how do you know it was dropping 25,000 rpm ??
Anyway here some help for smooth transition :

1. for engine clutch : remove 1 shim
2. for 2 speed clutch : tighten the middle screws SK4X5 ( the one that have 2 balls ) as tight as possible to TO0233. There is little play when you twist left and right TO0233. You need to tune the springs TO238 so it doesn't shift while cornering under full throttle

See the attachment
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File Type: jpg to0233.jpg (33.7 KB, 332 views)
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Old 05-02-2005, 01:26 AM   #15032
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Quote:
Originally posted by Toster
It looks like I might have a bit too much end play. I measured it at .o25 in. ~.635mm. I will add another shim and see. What do you mean it will drag if I built it like the book? Also do you have the link to the site?

Would switching to the red clutch allow it to engage sooner?
www.cefx.net

check the setup/tips section
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Old 05-02-2005, 04:08 PM   #15033
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Thanks for all the help everyone. I rebuilt the dif, rebuilt the shocks, cleaned the oneway, checked all pullies (they were all fine) and thoroughly cleaned everything. It looks so nice all fresh and clean...looked brand new. Hit the track and it was SO much better. It is driveable (problem with the driver, but thats another issue!). Thanks everyone.
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:59 PM   #15034
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THanks for the help. I will adjust the end play some more and read much much more. There is alot of good info in here. Thanks again.
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Old 05-02-2005, 10:25 PM   #15035
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Default Re: CLUTCH

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Originally posted by Slotmachine
When you put the clutch together, and put the bell on , push in on it if it hits the clutch shoe put a shim between the adjuster and the clutch bell. When you dont feel any drag anymore, add .010 to the shims then put on the bolt, make sure that there is no endplay and the clutch should be good............
"make sure that there is no endplay ...."

don't you get engine overheat or stalling problem ? I was doing that too before, but my friend told me to use only few shims (allowing 0.5mm - 1mm of clearance between A and B , see attachment) and gradually add 1 shim as the clutch become thinner.

Your clutch also wear faster if you don't have enough clearance. The clutch is already touching the bell even in idle.
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Old 05-03-2005, 04:09 AM   #15036
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Default Kawahara Neg Diff

Hi all.

Have been using the kawa neg diff at the rear for awhile. Don't really feel any difference compared to using a normal diff with both on 10K diff oil. Can someone explain how does the neg diff work and when does it work best - small and tight tracks or big tracks? Was under the impression that it works like an LSD or TCS system. Is that right?

Also, is there any maintenance required for this unit and setting options in the clutch system?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:24 PM   #15037
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What is the mugen part # for the shims on the engine shaft to take out some of the end play?
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:55 AM   #15038
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Quote:
Originally posted by Toster
What is the mugen part # for the shims on the engine shaft to take out some of the end play?
Not too sure... i'd just use the Kyosho shim set of big and small shims
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:55 AM   #15039
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Default Re: Re: CLUTCH

Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
"make sure that there is no endplay ...."

don't you get engine overheat or stalling problem ? I was doing that too before, but my friend told me to use only few shims (allowing 0.5mm - 1mm of clearance between A and B , see attachment) and gradually add 1 shim as the clutch become thinner.

Your clutch also wear faster if you don't have enough clearance. The clutch is already touching the bell even in idle.
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Old 05-04-2005, 06:36 AM   #15040
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Quote:
Originally posted by coldfusion
Not too sure... i'd just use the Kyosho shim set of big and small shims
i use an old thrust bearing.... just one side
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:09 PM   #15041
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Default Very Powerful

So powerful!
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:33 PM   #15042
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is that how the mtx-4 is going to be like
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Old 05-04-2005, 08:34 PM   #15043
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Is that the Mugen Mars Probe vehicle or what??
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Old 05-04-2005, 08:35 PM   #15044
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Default Re: Kawahara Neg Diff

Quote:
Originally posted by coldfusion
Hi all.

Have been using the kawa neg diff at the rear for awhile. Don't really feel any difference compared to using a normal diff with both on 10K diff oil. Can someone explain how does the neg diff work and when does it work best - small and tight tracks or big tracks? Was under the impression that it works like an LSD or TCS system. Is that right?

Also, is there any maintenance required for this unit and setting options in the clutch system?

Thanks in advance.
Anyone?? Rob? Scott?
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Old 05-04-2005, 10:17 PM   #15045
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Default Re: Very Powerful

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Originally posted by Aaron_ETF
So powerful!
Will it make a 5 minute qualifier???

On the Kawahara neg diff: I have one, but I have never tried it. Most, but not all, of the people I know that have used it didn't like it too much. Nothing terrible, but just preferred not to use. Therefore, since I hate wrenching, I have never installed. It has been sitting on my bench for like 9 months. God I hate wrenching. I think the only think I hate more than wrenching, is losing because I was too lazy to wrench on my car.
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Last edited by Scott Fisher; 05-05-2005 at 12:22 AM.
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