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Old 07-31-2006, 03:31 PM   #16681
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Who sells MTX3 rear bulkhead ?
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:46 PM   #16682
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You mean aftermarket? I was going to be a smart a^se and say mugen lol.

Check out the Integy website. Last i looked, they had some alloy parts for the MTX3, no idea on availability. If you looking for a std part, i have a few people and shops you can get them from. Best being Swayze RC. Awesome service... better than anyone ive dealt with.
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Old 08-01-2006, 09:45 AM   #16683
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Gary in an awsome dude. Contact info on his website.

http://www.swayze.ca/
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:16 PM   #16684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
You mean aftermarket? I was going to be a smart a^se and say mugen lol.

Check out the Integy website. Last i looked, they had some alloy parts for the MTX3, no idea on availability. If you looking for a std part, i have a few people and shops you can get them from. Best being Swayze RC. Awesome service... better than anyone ive dealt with.
Yes, I mean original Mugen Seiki.

Swayze RC web address ? Tks.
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:25 PM   #16685
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is there a website that tells you whether or not they have they part in stock or not for the mtx3
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Old 08-02-2006, 02:24 AM   #16686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
is there a website that tells you whether or not they have they part in stock or not for the mtx3
http://www.amainhobbies.com
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Old 08-06-2006, 02:19 PM   #16687
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Default need you help guys on screws????

hi i just brought a 2nd hand mugen mtx3. i had to change a few bits ie rear and front belt so i have had the car in bits and i came across a few sherred (where you cant the the alllen key to lock)screws.i didnt like the look of that so thought i will get a complete set of screws, take the thing to bits and rebuild it.also learning about the car at the same time and having done that be happy in the knowledge that if i need to strip it down to fix some thing i would not have a prob.

so i order the titanium screw set A and B from the parts list thinking may aswell get the best ( fingŁ40 ).should be coming tomorrow.
BUT yesterday i was in my lhs and was tell the guy there my plans and he said its not a good idea to use titanium screws!!!!!

1 they are brittle and easy to snap if you tighten a bit too hard, which scares the life out of me as having a screw broken off in your car i would think is not good..

2 they are not really stronger than the steel screw because titanium is only stronger by weight meaning if you had the same weight screw in both, the titanium would be stronger but as they are lighter the comperable strength is lost..

3 they are used for lightness not strength...

i want strength, dont care about the weight just want a reliable car.
so please advice me as iam scared to use the new screw set i have ordered and would like some real world comments on these screws.

has any1 ever snapped a titanium screw over tightening????

wats my best bet for strength steel or titanium???

thanks for you time ,but please reply asap cause i wanna go run the car but dont know what to do now.
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Old 08-06-2006, 09:21 PM   #16688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dick dastardly
hi i just brought a 2nd hand mugen mtx3. i had to change a few bits ie rear and front belt so i have had the car in bits and i came across a few sherred (where you cant the the alllen key to lock)screws.i didnt like the look of that so thought i will get a complete set of screws, take the thing to bits and rebuild it.also learning about the car at the same time and having done that be happy in the knowledge that if i need to strip it down to fix some thing i would not have a prob.

so i order the titanium screw set A and B from the parts list thinking may aswell get the best ( fingŁ40 ).should be coming tomorrow.
BUT yesterday i was in my lhs and was tell the guy there my plans and he said its not a good idea to use titanium screws!!!!!

1 they are brittle and easy to snap if you tighten a bit too hard, which scares the life out of me as having a screw broken off in your car i would think is not good..

2 they are not really stronger than the steel screw because titanium is only stronger by weight meaning if you had the same weight screw in both, the titanium would be stronger but as they are lighter the comperable strength is lost..

3 they are used for lightness not strength...

i want strength, dont care about the weight just want a reliable car.
so please advice me as iam scared to use the new screw set i have ordered and would like some real world comments on these screws.

has any1 ever snapped a titanium screw over tightening????

wats my best bet for strength steel or titanium???

thanks for you time ,but please reply asap cause i wanna go run the car but dont know what to do now.

To say that you will snap them I really don't think that is somthing to worry about because you don't need to put that much torque on them when you are puting your car together. So I think that it would be a safe bet to use them. I have them on the car that I am driving. The car is a friend of mine that is lettting me run it this summer as he has no time. We both are about the same when it comes to driving talent and both have had our fare share of bad breaks and neither one of us have broken a screw in the car. He has own the car for three years now as I am putting the third full summer of weekly club races plus big event races on the car and never have had one of the ti screws fail on me. That being said the only place that would be advisable would be the motor mount screws. These screws I would use the steel for the more strength as you'll find yourself taking the engine in and out of your car for maintence and whatnot and those screws you do like to put a little extra tourqe on. Ask yourself this if the steel screws are so strong like the lhs guy said then why are you replacing stripped ones? Hmmm?

Hope that helps.
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Old 08-06-2006, 09:40 PM   #16689
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Ti screws want to be open by Hudy or Mugen screwdrivers.

Don't tighten too hard. The plastics and Ti screws might be strip out due to excessive force.

Ti screws are weaker than steel but they better than Alluminium screws.
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:25 AM   #16690
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Default mtx-3 prospec

Anyone know what shore tires came in the Mtx-3 prospec kit
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:11 PM   #16691
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I think 40 or 42.
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:16 PM   #16692
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Hmm, They seem softer than that; but maybe your right
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Old 08-07-2006, 03:17 PM   #16693
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Default prob with mw clutch pls help???newbie

sorry if iam asking a question thats been asked before. done a search but could not find what iam looking for.

i had done a few repairs and took it over the carpark for a test run( not the best place but the tracks an hour away and i want to see if the repairs were ok)

had it running fine for about 10 mins and was about to pack it up, happy the work i had done was ok.

i was nearly at a stand still and the thing just reved high and drove right into a wall
was only a few feet so it did not get upto speed and after looking it over i cant see no damage

well apart from the wheels only go clockwise when they used to go both ways, so i took the gears of and i guess what is the clutch shoe? is stuck in its housing in an open position where it is normaly closed ie no gap and is not stuck in its housing(check pic please)

is this broke??
if so wat do i need too replace, or is there a way to get it closed again???
iam thinking its stuck in second or something so would running it again fast enough for 2nd to kick in,do the trick, will it go back to 1st getting it back to normal???

please advice asap as i wanted to goto the track tomorrow but i dont now wats going on

cheers for your replys
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Last edited by dick dastardly; 08-07-2006 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 08-07-2006, 05:06 PM   #16694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliott hart
Anyone know what shore tires came in the Mtx-3 prospec kit

#37 Shore. I am shore of this.
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Old 08-07-2006, 05:41 PM   #16695
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Default Jammed in second

Firstly you need to release the jam, this can be done by forcing the center cam back with a screw driver. I wouldn't recommend this! Just slacken off the 2 socket head screws on the ends of the clutch shoes, these are the SG2.6x12.
Now reassemble, try to get the SG2.6x12 to the same setting, as this determines when you change into second. Reassemble the mechanism onto the shaft. Screw the center SK4x5 in until the shoe T0234 starts rubbing on the clutch bell T0236. Repeat this for both SK4x5. Now unscrew both SK4x5 about one turn, and you are done.
The ball t0239 needs to operate on the flat on t0233, I suspect that your clutch shoes have worn down and the ball ran off the flat part, and ran onto the rounded part.
The 2D picture in the sidebar gives a better understanding of how it works
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