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Old 06-15-2005, 01:05 AM   #15331
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"More droop will give more responsive steering"

Do you refer to front droop or rear droop ?
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Old 06-15-2005, 07:28 AM   #15332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
"More droop will give more responsive steering"

Do you refer to front droop or rear droop ?
Down travel (or droop) is how far the suspension drops below when raised from ride height, before the tires leaves the ground. If you set a car on the ground, push it down a few times to settle the suspension, then begin to slowly pick up one end of the car, youíll notice that the tires will stay on the ground for a little bit before they come up. This is droop.. Adjusting droop can greatly affect the way your car handles.

As you increase your front droop you will smooth the car going into the turn, and gain steering on the exit of the turn.

As you decrease your front droop your car will initiate the turn quicker but will have less steering coming out of the turn. The car will also have a more responsive feel.

For the rear, as you increase the droop your car will gain more side bite and traction.

As you decrease the rear droop, you car will become more responsive and will have less side bite, but giving you more steering.

Normally on low bite tracks such as parking lots you will find more droop will increase traction and hook your car up. On high bite tracks you will find that less droop will help keep the car flatter and increase corner speed and lap times.

If you need a little bit more steering on power, or in the middle of the turn , add a little more droop to the front suspension. If you want a little bit more rear traction in the middle of the turn, reduce the amount of droop in the front or increase the amount of droop in the rear.

While rear droop should always be more than front droop, always be careful not to put more than 3mm of droop in the rear as it will diminish the carís handling ability.

AFM
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Old 06-15-2005, 07:55 AM   #15333
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AFM to the rescue again
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Old 06-15-2005, 09:35 AM   #15334
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afm that is some good stuff man.
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Old 06-15-2005, 12:27 PM   #15335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Is this statement true :

harder damping ( thicker oil shock ) = slower corner entry speed & slower mid cornering speed.
Taken Form Penguin RC

The shock dampening should be tuned to the fastest movement that the shock shaft will encounter. This is done to allow the shock to have consistent and quick reaction without causing a back-up in the transition of the oil between the chambers. If a back-up occurs the dampening will have a negative effect on handling of the vehicle because it will not allow the spring to start and complete itĻs job effectively.

If the dampening is to high the shock will act as a secondary spring or spring bumper which will not allow the vehicle to transition through rapid changes in direction easily. Over dampening will smooth out the ride of a vehicle over minor bumps by making them almost invisible to the springs. Major bumps will cause the vehicle to become unstable. The major of concern of over dampening is that the car will become sluggish through chicanes and in avoidance maneuvers.

If the dampening is to low the shock will not be able to control the spring causing the car to oscillate (bounce continuously) causing a loss of grip over any bump. Transitions in a low dampening situation will be extremely quick, most of the time too quick. The main concern of this situation is that the car becomes extremely unstable under any situation. The one thing that an under dampened situation helps, is that it is able to absorb large bumps with ease.

It is better for the car to be over dampened than under dampened because an unstable car is uncontrollable. The optimum dampening should be just enough to stop the spring from oscillating.

AFM
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Old 06-16-2005, 02:46 AM   #15336
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AFM, You are the best !!! thanks
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:35 PM   #15337
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Hey guys, I am in the process of buying a MTX-3 Prospec car, what are the essential "must have" spare parts for the car. Everyone I have talked to has told me the car is a tank, but I just want to see what comes with the car and what I should have available to make it thru a race day...

I now have over 300+ pages of posts to catch up on.......atleast I have my weekend planned out now...
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:37 PM   #15338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigeRyan
Hey guys, I am in the process of buying a MTX-3 Prospec car, what are the essential "must have" spare parts for the car. Everyone I have talked to has told me the car is a tank, but I just want to see what comes with the car and what I should have available to make it thru a race day...

I now have over 300+ pages of posts to catch up on.......atleast I have my weekend planned out now...
front & rear knuckles (T0138,T0139) 1pc
front & rear arms ( T0136,T0137) 1pc
rear bulk head (T0126) 1pc
maybe an extra set of spur gears.
must have items.
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:59 PM   #15339
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TigeRyan you have a PM.
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Old 06-16-2005, 08:00 PM   #15340
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Are the hinge pins pretty hardy???
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:38 PM   #15341
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Yeah, I have extra hinge pins in my box. The present hinge pins never bent until today, so it's not necessary item. But if you have them as spares, it will be peace of mind.

Front upright TO138L or TO138R is a must items.
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:24 PM   #15342
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Correct me if im wrong , the MTX3 kit comes with 2 deg offset wheels/tires , and will require them unlesss you adjust the pillow balls
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Old 06-18-2005, 05:17 PM   #15343
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is the only way to get the clutch bell off the mtx3 with out removing the motor to grind down the chasis a bit?

and what is the result of having the front end too narrow?
i use regular wheels up front and need to bring my pillow balls out to make up for it, about how much thread should be showing on them?
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Old 06-18-2005, 07:15 PM   #15344
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When taking out the bell, i take out the top bearing, then push on the second bearing with a 1.5mm while pulling off the clutch bell and it usually comes right off. It's that inside bearing that doesn't let the bell come out sometimes.
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Old 06-18-2005, 09:17 PM   #15345
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I love the car. I have two things I do not like:

One - the brakes are very sensitive to adjustment.

Two - the threaded metal ball socket (pliers will not grip these!) for the upper part of the shock always ends up locking the dam screw from the shock tower it's in. I had to cut the plastic cap piece off of the shock and use a new plastic cap, metal ball socket, and screw. That can get expensive over time.
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