jrabbito

Not true...I have a few that I feel are very important. Not NEEDED though...

WC Edition kit + these upgrades

Kawahara rear adjustable sway bar (Blade style)
East Ventilated Brake disc (The stock one isnt very good)
Skyline Rear shock tower (4mm thick)
Titanium middle shaft - East
Kawahara steel pinions

Its all for durability/performance and none are really needed...

John

NiMo

He asked what was really needed, and with the WC none are.
But there are plenty of options to make the kit a little better.
I too have the Kawahara Pinions*/Brake Disc*/Rear Sway Bar* also the Square ti rear dog bones and drive cups, Evola Springs, 2 kit rear shock towers glued together to reduce flex and a 5th body post.
They were not needed but they do help make the car easier to drive.

*not yet run

jrabbito

Very True NiMo,

Just in case he wanted hop ups thought we could lead him in the right direction so he doesn't spend money on useless cosmetic only upgrades.

Very good clarification though.

Cheers,

John

Joe Chaplow

just curious if anyone else noticed this. i have the World Edition car and the ti 2 speed shaft (kyosho) and the ti middle shaft (3 racing. also have the ti bevel shafts for the diff. everything else is stock... and my car weighed in at 1770. i thought this car was underweight. also, have the lightweight gear housing from 3 racing.

ziggy12345

I have the AAA battery pack also and it weighs in at 1750 grms

Cheers

breese

Is anybody going to the nationals in texas with this car. If so would please share your set-up

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

I have the standard kit and added ti screws including diff screws and ti turnbuckles. my cars dry weight with body is 1730. So i took out the Ti screws from under the chassis and put the steal screws wich added to 10g so I can have an bigger gap from roar min weight of 1725 to factor in tire wear. Ive noticed that the WC actually has heavier pivot balls than the standard kit.

jeffreylin

Really? Dry with body and tires? One of mine has steel screws and I still have to add 10g to make legal weight.

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

I just purchased a WC kit. Any tips on the initial build that I need to be aware of. Built both diffs and the servo saver so far, only problem I have found is trying to figure out which screws go where. Drawings are close to the actual sizes, but may need to buy a caliper to make sure I am using the right ones. Also is the 30,000 oil the way to go in the rear diff? I will be running at Revelations in Montclair,CA.

jeffreylin

30k works good at Revelation most of the time.

Joe Chaplow

yeah, the weight was with the body and tires. one thing i have changed is that i had the 3 racing rear aluminum bulk covers on it. i took them off and put the stock plastic on. so i am guessing my car should be around 1755 now. i didnt have a scale available to measure the difference. i was not aware that the WC edition pivot balls weighed more. i have to check that out, and might replace. but, i think i am comfortable with the car weighing 1755. that is with tires that are 62/60mm. probably, i will be runnin at 60/58 in my qualifiers, so that should bring me down to 1750... which is only 25mm above.
i have had the regular kit and now the world edition. for whatever reason the world edition seems so much nicer. i guess it might be the belts, it is very free flowing and very little resistance. even the plastics seem to fit a little better. maybe thats because i had one of the first rrr out there.

mcsquish

iTrader: (1)

Any tricks on keeping the read diff from leaking? I was told to glue it, but I was wondering if there were any other tricks.

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

Jeffreylin, any other tips or upgrades I might need before I build it?

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

i would just build it per instruction. The box set up is a good starting point.
The one thing that is a must is a thicker rear shock tower. I'm not sure if the w/c already comes with one. If not Skylineracing makes a good one.

jeffreylin

The diff shouldn't leak if you built it per instruction. One thing that was not clear in the instruction is how much diff oil you should put in it. I have them just slightly covering the bevel shaft or perhaps 60-70 percent full. If you fill it to the top there will be too much oil inside and it will leak and your diff won't work right.