Serpent 710
05-08-2004 | 08:56 PM
#9857
Originally posted by Motorman
its easy to tell if the clutch is overheating take it apart and see if the flyweights are distorted or better yet after a hard run temp the clutch bell and the gun will scare the hell out of you
its easy to tell if the clutch is overheating take it apart and see if the flyweights are distorted or better yet after a hard run temp the clutch bell and the gun will scare the hell out of you
05-08-2004 | 11:08 PM
#9859
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,069
From: Nuremberg, Germany
Re: Re: Re: Re: Saturday surpise!
Originally posted by InitialD
Sorry for the uneventful day Mark... Hope today / tomorrow would be good for you.
I think the most important thing about the thrust bearing is to make sure that step 8.7 on page 28 of the manual to put shims to minimise end play is followed. Next make sure the thrust bearing is installed correctly. Inner ring (5.0 mm) first towards the clutch shoes followed by the bigger one (5.2 mm).
If you use the Mugen Super Grease, you would not need to grease it often. I have not greased mine about a month of racing and it still works plenty fine. You can still see grease sticking to the balls of the inner ring.
Sorry for the uneventful day Mark... Hope today / tomorrow would be good for you.
I think the most important thing about the thrust bearing is to make sure that step 8.7 on page 28 of the manual to put shims to minimise end play is followed. Next make sure the thrust bearing is installed correctly. Inner ring (5.0 mm) first towards the clutch shoes followed by the bigger one (5.2 mm).
If you use the Mugen Super Grease, you would not need to grease it often. I have not greased mine about a month of racing and it still works plenty fine. You can still see grease sticking to the balls of the inner ring.
Cheers, Mark.
05-08-2004 | 11:15 PM
#9860
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 536
From: Planet earth
Originally posted by markp27
I don't think Hudy are modifying the part number for the modified setup system (# 108250) - but it only takes about 5 mins to modify the original system, if you have a dremel.
Cheers, Mark.
I don't think Hudy are modifying the part number for the modified setup system (# 108250) - but it only takes about 5 mins to modify the original system, if you have a dremel.
Cheers, Mark.
05-08-2004 | 11:18 PM
#9861
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,069
From: Nuremberg, Germany
Originally posted by border r/c
Yes Hudy is coming in a couple of weeks with a new set-up set that will fit the 710 corectly a simple mod. for the upper plate.
Yes Hudy is coming in a couple of weeks with a new set-up set that will fit the 710 corectly a simple mod. for the upper plate.
I think I'm going to need some rain tyres Rain again! 
time to polish the 710 
05-09-2004 | 02:35 AM
#9862
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: manifold problem
Originally posted by InitialD
I'm still waiting to strike it big on the lottery ticket ! 
When I do, I'll let you guys know ! 
I'm still waiting to strike it big on the lottery ticket !
When I do, I'll let you guys know !
.. then you'll be buying out myTSN!
05-09-2004 | 02:38 AM
#9863
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally posted by InitialD
Try it ! Why do you think we get to play here?
Anyway, the skies held up yesterday and it was overcast ! Pretty cooling to play in the afternoon.
My apologies to rub it in Mark, Sow&Steady and the rest but today is going to be another beautiful day !
Try it ! Why do you think we get to play here?
Anyway, the skies held up yesterday and it was overcast ! Pretty cooling to play in the afternoon.
My apologies to rub it in Mark, Sow&Steady and the rest but today is going to be another beautiful day !
Maybe I should go ahead and start the rebuilding.
05-09-2004 | 02:41 AM
#9864
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally posted by Motorman
its easy to tell if the clutch is overheating take it apart and see if the flyweights are distorted or better yet after a hard run temp the clutch bell and the gun will scare the hell out of you
its easy to tell if the clutch is overheating take it apart and see if the flyweights are distorted or better yet after a hard run temp the clutch bell and the gun will scare the hell out of you
Only kidding ... what temp can I expect to see for an overheating clutch Motorman?
05-09-2004 | 02:52 AM
#9866
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 247
From: Near Serpent (grrrr)
200mm International at Heemstede
Originally posted by markp27
Maybe we should all turn up at MACH Heemstede and make, like what D says, an impromptu RCTECH-Serpent Worlds - sounds good to me
Maybe we should all turn up at MACH Heemstede and make, like what D says, an impromptu RCTECH-Serpent Worlds
- sounds good to me
for the 200mm International race. And be ready to drive against some of the top Serpent drivers (not me yet
, but i'm still going to race)Invitation
Inscription
05-09-2004 | 04:12 AM
#9867
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Re: 200mm International at Heemstede
Originally posted by Schrijver99
At June 5-6th 2004 come to Heemstede "HOME OF SERPENT" for the 200mm International race.
And be ready to drive against some of the top Serpent drivers (not me yet , but i'm still going to race)
Invitation
Inscription
At June 5-6th 2004 come to Heemstede "HOME OF SERPENT"
for the 200mm International race. And be ready to drive against some of the top Serpent drivers (not me yet
, but i'm still going to race)Invitation
Inscription
05-09-2004 | 05:59 AM
#9868
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by Motorman
The solution is to run Glens setup with the Serpent Yellow shoe, heavy spring and weighted flyweights. Or the Red Rulon shoe (they are available) I make with a mugen hard silver spring and weighted flyweights.
The solution is to run Glens setup with the Serpent Yellow shoe, heavy spring and weighted flyweights. Or the Red Rulon shoe (they are available) I make with a mugen hard silver spring and weighted flyweights.
Will you please send me more information about your 'Red Rulon shoe' ? And the Mugen hard spring?
I would like more descriptions, part numbers, availability... that sort of thing.
Also, may I put some of the information from your post in my Centax-3 article on myTSN?
Regards,
05-09-2004 | 06:08 AM
#9869
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by InitialD
By weighted, do you mean physically put weight on the shoes like what Glenn wrote in his article or by cutting up the shoes to use it as a flyweight and mount it in between the pins? I believe both methods will make for heavier flyweights...
By weighted, do you mean physically put weight on the shoes like what Glenn wrote in his article or by cutting up the shoes to use it as a flyweight and mount it in between the pins? I believe both methods will make for heavier flyweights...
I too am curious. Some people say 'cut flyweights' and others say 'weighted flyweights'... to me cut flyweights can mean a few different things.
05-09-2004 | 07:22 AM
#9870
there are several methods on the flyweights, cutting the tips gives them less centrifical force as they get lighter so the engine must spin up more to overcome the spring and engage the clutch. this is good and bad. its good because you can get some more low end punch, but because the force is lower as engine torwue rises the clutch starts slipping as the shoe cannot hold the clamp on the bell tight enough.
Weighting the shoes by drilling the tips and adding set screws gives them more centrifical force with also gives more punch but if the spring tension is not increased the engine will always bog off the corner. with the stock spring it is to light and you cannot get it to tighten up enough before the spring actually bottoms out hence you cannot get rid of the bog and the clutch will phusically not travel far enough to bit the bell correctly causing slip once again. This is why you need to go to higher rate spring so it can be adjusted tight enough to give you low end punch with weighted flyweights and not coil bind before the shoe actually contacts the bell. Centax 3 clutches are so small their centrifical force is low so they become very critical on setup.
If the clutch bell turns blue its overheating, you should try to stay below 400 degrees the plastic flyweights will start to melt soon after that. Also remember that the clutch transfers a serious amount of heat into the nose of the engine. Many times the engine is blamed when it stalls during a heat race on a pit stop even though it ran qualifiers all day with no tuning problems. if the clutch over heats the nose of the crank the engine vaporlocks causing it to stall. This is why its so hard to restart an overheated engine as the fuel hits the inlet of the crank and vaporizes. usually the front of the engine is hotter than the head because of the clutch.
Glen the spring PN's are
Mugen H0767 Silver Super hard
Mugen H0764 Medium
The Rulon is the Same material as the Delta type shoes being made for other cars
I switch between both from time to time.
My 2 cents
heavy flyweights and spring GOOD
light flyweights and soft spring BAD
does any of this make sense or have I done a poor job of wording it?
Weighting the shoes by drilling the tips and adding set screws gives them more centrifical force with also gives more punch but if the spring tension is not increased the engine will always bog off the corner. with the stock spring it is to light and you cannot get it to tighten up enough before the spring actually bottoms out hence you cannot get rid of the bog and the clutch will phusically not travel far enough to bit the bell correctly causing slip once again. This is why you need to go to higher rate spring so it can be adjusted tight enough to give you low end punch with weighted flyweights and not coil bind before the shoe actually contacts the bell. Centax 3 clutches are so small their centrifical force is low so they become very critical on setup.
If the clutch bell turns blue its overheating, you should try to stay below 400 degrees the plastic flyweights will start to melt soon after that. Also remember that the clutch transfers a serious amount of heat into the nose of the engine. Many times the engine is blamed when it stalls during a heat race on a pit stop even though it ran qualifiers all day with no tuning problems. if the clutch over heats the nose of the crank the engine vaporlocks causing it to stall. This is why its so hard to restart an overheated engine as the fuel hits the inlet of the crank and vaporizes. usually the front of the engine is hotter than the head because of the clutch.
Glen the spring PN's are
Mugen H0767 Silver Super hard
Mugen H0764 Medium
The Rulon is the Same material as the Delta type shoes being made for other cars
I switch between both from time to time.
My 2 cents
heavy flyweights and spring GOOD
light flyweights and soft spring BAD
does any of this make sense or have I done a poor job of wording it?
Last edited by Motorman; 05-09-2004 at 07:31 AM.