R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-05-2004, 09:52 PM   #9571
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
so i can make my car accel faster by reducing my spur gear correct?
Nope. Better acceleration comes with BIGGER spur since this will make the FDR HIGHER. The effect of reduction or increase in FDR is greater when you change pinions. SMALLER pinion, FDR goes HIGHER.

Bigger FDR value, better acceleration. Smaller FDR value, better top speed.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
what about the front pulley and the two sides ones? do they have any say in the equation?
In the way, the front Internal Drive Ratio does have a say when you look at the whole car's drive train...

The front Internal Drive Ratio = (35/19) x (22/22) = 1.842

Compare that to 1.875 in the rear, you will find that the front tires of the 710 is a little overdriven (front pulling the rear) when you use equal front and rear tires. That is why team drivers and some people here usually use and true the front tires a little smaller (about 1 mm) than the rear tires to get EQUAL front and rear TIRE ROLLOUT.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
does serpent make different size pulleys for us to play with?
I don't know about Serpent making different pulleys on the 710. Perhaps a 21T side front pulley or a 23T rear side pulley... Or some people like Pyramid and Goldfinger also used the 46T rear diff pulley available from the 705 to change the overdrive of the 710...

On the 705, they made available different size pulley for us to increase the Internal Drive Ratio and hence the FDR. It also made it possible to play with overdrive and with tire split like what is done on the 1/8th scale cars.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 10:01 PM   #9572
Tech Master
 
Pyramid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: ID
Posts: 1,945
Default Re: Re: Re: Building the Perfect Centax-3 Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I did find that the 5x10x4 bearing that goes into the 1st gear pinion to be a little tight. Before I screw the 1st pinion onto the 2nd pinion, I mount the bearing first. Then I screw the whole 1st and 2nd gear pinion onto the clutch bell. I did not find the pinions wobbling problem.
A little tight but still can get in I think it would be ok (but pinions must all be installed first), but 3 of mine could not even get in (the bearing). If I did as you said, it woble badly, all three. I believe Goldfinger use a reamer to clear the tight space.
Pyramid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 10:13 PM   #9573
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Building the Perfect Centax-3 Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
A little tight but still can get in I think it would be ok (but pinions must all be installed first), but 3 of mine could not even get in (the bearing). If I did as you said, it woble badly, all three. I believe Goldfinger use a reamer to clear the tight space.
I think your problem with the pinions wobbling is due to the 5x10x4 bearing not sitting in the pinions properly.

I make sure that they go in right and flat by knocking it lightly in with a plastic tip hammer and a Hudy wheel nut wrench at the end on the bearing to press it in.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 10:14 PM   #9574
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South FLorida
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Profoxcg
Default

Quote:
so i can make my car accel faster by reducing my spur gear correct?
what I meant to ask was, i can make the car accel faster by using a smalled diff pulley in the rear?

alouthg the car will be driven more by the rear, correct?
Profoxcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 10:24 PM   #9575
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
what I meant to ask was, i can make the car accel faster by using a smalled diff pulley in the rear?
A smaller rear diff pulley will make for smaller Internal Drive Ratio. This will make for smaller FDR which means less acceleration and higher top speed ! Besides the fact that you need to use a different rear belt too !

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
alouthg the car will be driven more by the rear, correct?
Yes, the rear will be overdriven = underdrive (rear pushing the front).
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 10:32 PM   #9576
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South FLorida
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Profoxcg
Default

do people actually play with this stuff? it seems to complicated, and besides what good is a car that in underdriven or overdriven, dont we want the same at all time?

Also, is the 710 has a push from factory due to the fact that it is slightly overdriven, by making the car underdriven cant you aliviate the problem a bit?
Profoxcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 11:17 PM   #9577
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
do people actually play with this stuff? it seems to complicated, and besides what good is a car that in underdriven or overdriven, dont we want the same at all time?
In an ideal world and situation, same overdrive is required all the time. But this is not the case during racing when the rear tires wear faster than front causing different tire diameters front and rear.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Also, is the 710 has a push from factory due to the fact that it is slightly overdriven, by making the car underdriven cant you aliviate the problem a bit?
Front overdriven car has steering on power. Pushes off power.

Underdriving the car will make it push on power and give you more off power steering.

Last edited by InitialD; 05-05-2004 at 11:24 PM.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 11:34 PM   #9578
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, I thought of making it strictly to a GTP / Lola machine too. I think Schrijver99 made his also to a GTP / Lola machine.
I'm doing it (I still have the Vector NT to build up (i.e. engine and servo required), but I want to concentrate on 1/10th at the moment) Did you have to cut down your 705 GTP frontrammer, like Kevin said. I have the Impact one and it has no provision to mount the body pegs on it I'm going to order the 705 Rammer 808121.

Anything else I need for the operation?

Cheers, Mark.
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 11:47 PM   #9579
Tech Fanatic
 
BaxterC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 801
Default Re: Building the Perfect Centax-3 Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi all,

Armed with a lot of knowledge gained from many many people, I have written an article on myTSN about building the 'perfect' Centax-3 clutch.

You can find it at:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10063

Hopefully this will help people get the best performance out of their clutch and car.


Cheers!
SWEET, thank you Mr Cauley... I am sure you are the best article man on myTSN, there is none that compare, I have all your articles printed and filed for easy reference. Thank you and keep it up.
BaxterC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2004, 11:52 PM   #9580
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Did you have to cut down your 705 GTP frontrammer, like Kevin said. I have the Impact one and it has no provision to mount the body pegs on it I'm going to order the 705 Rammer 808121.
Yes, you need to trim the sides of the bumper to make it fit in the Lola shell.

The Impact one does not provide you with the body post mount but you could use your old broken or existing 705 upper bumper plate to use it as the front body post. See an old pic below that I had in my PC (not Mac )



Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Anything else I need for the operation?
To convert the 705 to use GTP body, you need 3 things... The GTP set 808150, the Impact rear shock tower 808139 and the GTP / CanAm front bumper 808121 or Impact's more durable Lola bumper 808120.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2004, 12:01 AM   #9581
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

Cool! Thanks D Not bad for a PC

The 705 rear shock tower doesn't fit

What about the rear diff - do I need a diff with a GTP car? Is it better to use a solid axle like the 1:8ths?
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2004, 12:20 AM   #9582
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Cool! Thanks D Not bad for a PC
I'm actually interested to know what you guys run as your servers...

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
The 705 rear shock tower doesn't fit
You need the rear GTP shocktower so that the GTP rear floating mount will work correct.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
What about the rear diff - do I need a diff with a GTP car? Is it better to use a solid axle like the 1:8ths?
If you're daring enough, you could use a rear solid. But for me, a rear diff would suffice !

Ooophs, sorry to the other guys about the 705 discussions.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2004, 12:23 AM   #9583
Tech Master
 
Pyramid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: ID
Posts: 1,945
Default Re: Re: Re: Building the Perfect Centax-3 Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Usually, the preload measurement depends from engine to engine. Different tuning requires different measurement. Driving style and preferance also determines this preload.

So what I do is to start it tight (maybe up to 1 mm) and then loosen it step by step (quarter of a turn at a time) to find the best clutch engagement from standstill and out of the corners without the clutch slipping.

The method of measuring from the end of centax clutch-nut (6582) to the end of crankshaft as mentioned in the 705 manual will yield different results for different engines. It depends on hte shim behind the brass collet used and also the length of the crankshaft.

So a better method of measurement is between the end of the flywheel nut and the top of the tension collar. That way, the measurement stays relatively the same from engine to engine.

A larger measurement (tighter pre-tension setting) yields a harder clutch engagement. Engine may rev a little more for the clutch to engage. Most of the time, this setting goes hand in hand with the clutch gap spacing. The rule of thumb I use is smaller clutch gap, harder pre-tension nut setting. Larger clutch gap spacing, looser pre-tension nut setting.

That said, I actually like my current setup which is 0.7 mm clutch gap, 1.1 mm between the end of the flywheel nut and the top of the tension collar with the stock soft Centax spring with the 3 flyweights mounted in between the flywheel pivot post.
Yes, I realise measuring the clutch nut to crankshaft would not make any effect anyway. I guess above is the best practice to do it.
Pyramid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2004, 12:24 AM   #9584
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I'm actually interested to know what you guys run as your servers...
Only the very best - here at work and at home Sun Workstations



Quote:
You need the rear GTP shocktower so that the GTP rear floating mount will work correct.
Is the part number correct? I can't find it on mytsn



Quote:
If you're daring enough, you could use a rear solid. But for me, a rear diff would suffice !

Ooophs, sorry to the other guys about the 705 discussions.
Then I'll stick with the adjustable - sorry from me, too
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2004, 12:31 AM   #9585
Tech Fanatic
 
BaxterC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 801
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Only the very best - here at work and at home Sun Workstations



Is the part number correct? I can't find it on mytsn





Then I'll stick with the adjustable - sorry from me, too
You are sooo lucky... Here we are running all windows workstations and servers... Servers are a mix of WinNT, 2k and 2k3... WinNT crashes if you look at it funny and then even if you dont... I wish we were lucky enough to have sun servers...
BaxterC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 705 J_Longbrake Nitro On-Road 4252 02-23-2015 12:34 AM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:21 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net