Serpent 710
#9571
Originally posted by Profoxcg
so i can make my car accel faster by reducing my spur gear correct?
so i can make my car accel faster by reducing my spur gear correct?
Bigger FDR value, better acceleration. Smaller FDR value, better top speed.
Originally posted by Profoxcg
what about the front pulley and the two sides ones? do they have any say in the equation?
what about the front pulley and the two sides ones? do they have any say in the equation?
The front Internal Drive Ratio = (35/19) x (22/22) = 1.842
Compare that to 1.875 in the rear, you will find that the front tires of the 710 is a little overdriven (front pulling the rear) when you use equal front and rear tires. That is why team drivers and some people here usually use and true the front tires a little smaller (about 1 mm) than the rear tires to get EQUAL front and rear TIRE ROLLOUT.
Originally posted by Profoxcg
does serpent make different size pulleys for us to play with?
does serpent make different size pulleys for us to play with?
On the 705, they made available different size pulley for us to increase the Internal Drive Ratio and hence the FDR. It also made it possible to play with overdrive and with tire split like what is done on the 1/8th scale cars.
#9572
Originally posted by InitialD
I did find that the 5x10x4 bearing that goes into the 1st gear pinion to be a little tight. Before I screw the 1st pinion onto the 2nd pinion, I mount the bearing first. Then I screw the whole 1st and 2nd gear pinion onto the clutch bell. I did not find the pinions wobbling problem.
I did find that the 5x10x4 bearing that goes into the 1st gear pinion to be a little tight. Before I screw the 1st pinion onto the 2nd pinion, I mount the bearing first. Then I screw the whole 1st and 2nd gear pinion onto the clutch bell. I did not find the pinions wobbling problem.
#9573
Originally posted by Pyramid
A little tight but still can get in I think it would be ok (but pinions must all be installed first), but 3 of mine could not even get in (the bearing). If I did as you said, it woble badly, all three. I believe Goldfinger use a reamer to clear the tight space.
A little tight but still can get in I think it would be ok (but pinions must all be installed first), but 3 of mine could not even get in (the bearing). If I did as you said, it woble badly, all three. I believe Goldfinger use a reamer to clear the tight space.
I make sure that they go in right and flat by knocking it lightly in with a plastic tip hammer and a Hudy wheel nut wrench at the end on the bearing to press it in.
#9574
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,146
From: South FLorida
so i can make my car accel faster by reducing my spur gear correct?
alouthg the car will be driven more by the rear, correct?
#9575
Originally posted by Profoxcg
what I meant to ask was, i can make the car accel faster by using a smalled diff pulley in the rear?
what I meant to ask was, i can make the car accel faster by using a smalled diff pulley in the rear?
Originally posted by Profoxcg
alouthg the car will be driven more by the rear, correct?
alouthg the car will be driven more by the rear, correct?
#9576
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,146
From: South FLorida
do people actually play with this stuff? it seems to complicated, and besides what good is a car that in underdriven or overdriven, dont we want the same at all time?
Also, is the 710 has a push from factory due to the fact that it is slightly overdriven, by making the car underdriven cant you aliviate the problem a bit?
Also, is the 710 has a push from factory due to the fact that it is slightly overdriven, by making the car underdriven cant you aliviate the problem a bit?
#9577
Originally posted by Profoxcg
do people actually play with this stuff? it seems to complicated, and besides what good is a car that in underdriven or overdriven, dont we want the same at all time?
do people actually play with this stuff? it seems to complicated, and besides what good is a car that in underdriven or overdriven, dont we want the same at all time?
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Also, is the 710 has a push from factory due to the fact that it is slightly overdriven, by making the car underdriven cant you aliviate the problem a bit?
Also, is the 710 has a push from factory due to the fact that it is slightly overdriven, by making the car underdriven cant you aliviate the problem a bit?
Underdriving the car will make it push on power and give you more off power steering.
Last edited by InitialD; 05-05-2004 at 10:24 PM.
#9578
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, I thought of making it strictly to a GTP / Lola machine too. I think Schrijver99 made his also to a GTP / Lola machine.
Yes, I thought of making it strictly to a GTP / Lola machine too. I think Schrijver99 made his also to a GTP / Lola machine.
(I still have the Vector NT to build up (i.e. engine and servo required), but I want to concentrate on 1/10th at the moment) Did you have to cut down your 705 GTP frontrammer, like Kevin said. I have the Impact one and it has no provision to mount the body pegs on it
I'm going to order the 705 Rammer 808121.Anything else I need for the operation?
Cheers, Mark.
#9579
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi all,
Armed with a lot of knowledge gained from many many people, I have written an article on myTSN about building the 'perfect' Centax-3 clutch.
You can find it at:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10063
Hopefully this will help people get the best performance out of their clutch and car.
Cheers!
Hi all,
Armed with a lot of knowledge gained from many many people, I have written an article on myTSN about building the 'perfect' Centax-3 clutch.
You can find it at:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10063
Hopefully this will help people get the best performance out of their clutch and car.
Cheers!
#9580
Originally posted by markp27
Did you have to cut down your 705 GTP frontrammer, like Kevin said. I have the Impact one and it has no provision to mount the body pegs on it
I'm going to order the 705 Rammer 808121.
Did you have to cut down your 705 GTP frontrammer, like Kevin said. I have the Impact one and it has no provision to mount the body pegs on it
I'm going to order the 705 Rammer 808121.
The Impact one does not provide you with the body post mount but you could use your old broken or existing 705 upper bumper plate to use it as the front body post. See an old pic below that I had in my PC (not Mac
)
Originally posted by markp27
Anything else I need for the operation?
Anything else I need for the operation?
#9582
Originally posted by markp27
Cool!
Thanks D
Not bad for a PC
Cool!
Thanks D
Not bad for a PC
I'm actually interested to know what you guys run as your servers...
Originally posted by markp27
The 705 rear shock tower doesn't fit
The 705 rear shock tower doesn't fit
Originally posted by markp27
What about the rear diff - do I need a diff with a GTP car? Is it better to use a solid axle like the 1:8ths?
What about the rear diff - do I need a diff with a GTP car? Is it better to use a solid axle like the 1:8ths?
Ooophs, sorry to the other guys about the 705 discussions.
#9583
Originally posted by InitialD
Usually, the preload measurement depends from engine to engine. Different tuning requires different measurement. Driving style and preferance also determines this preload.
So what I do is to start it tight (maybe up to 1 mm) and then loosen it step by step (quarter of a turn at a time) to find the best clutch engagement from standstill and out of the corners without the clutch slipping.
The method of measuring from the end of centax clutch-nut (6582) to the end of crankshaft as mentioned in the 705 manual will yield different results for different engines. It depends on hte shim behind the brass collet used and also the length of the crankshaft.
So a better method of measurement is between the end of the flywheel nut and the top of the tension collar. That way, the measurement stays relatively the same from engine to engine.
A larger measurement (tighter pre-tension setting) yields a harder clutch engagement. Engine may rev a little more for the clutch to engage. Most of the time, this setting goes hand in hand with the clutch gap spacing. The rule of thumb I use is smaller clutch gap, harder pre-tension nut setting. Larger clutch gap spacing, looser pre-tension nut setting.
That said, I actually like my current setup which is 0.7 mm clutch gap, 1.1 mm between the end of the flywheel nut and the top of the tension collar with the stock soft Centax spring with the 3 flyweights mounted in between the flywheel pivot post.
Usually, the preload measurement depends from engine to engine. Different tuning requires different measurement. Driving style and preferance also determines this preload.
So what I do is to start it tight (maybe up to 1 mm) and then loosen it step by step (quarter of a turn at a time) to find the best clutch engagement from standstill and out of the corners without the clutch slipping.
The method of measuring from the end of centax clutch-nut (6582) to the end of crankshaft as mentioned in the 705 manual will yield different results for different engines. It depends on hte shim behind the brass collet used and also the length of the crankshaft.
So a better method of measurement is between the end of the flywheel nut and the top of the tension collar. That way, the measurement stays relatively the same from engine to engine.
A larger measurement (tighter pre-tension setting) yields a harder clutch engagement. Engine may rev a little more for the clutch to engage. Most of the time, this setting goes hand in hand with the clutch gap spacing. The rule of thumb I use is smaller clutch gap, harder pre-tension nut setting. Larger clutch gap spacing, looser pre-tension nut setting.
That said, I actually like my current setup which is 0.7 mm clutch gap, 1.1 mm between the end of the flywheel nut and the top of the tension collar with the stock soft Centax spring with the 3 flyweights mounted in between the flywheel pivot post.
#9584
Originally posted by InitialD
I'm actually interested to know what you guys run as your servers...
I'm actually interested to know what you guys run as your servers...
You need the rear GTP shocktower so that the GTP rear floating mount will work correct.

If you're daring enough, you could use a rear solid. But for me, a rear diff would suffice !
Ooophs, sorry to the other guys about the 705 discussions.
Ooophs, sorry to the other guys about the 705 discussions.
#9585
Originally posted by markp27
Only the very best - here at work and at home Sun Workstations
Is the part number correct? I can't find it on mytsn
Then I'll stick with the adjustable - sorry from me, too
Only the very best - here at work and at home Sun Workstations
Is the part number correct? I can't find it on mytsn

Then I'll stick with the adjustable - sorry from me, too



