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Old 04-03-2004, 01:04 AM   #7561
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
Hey Rodrigo, I posted mumething on the engines thread, Here is what I wrote:


Remember that this is what I do, but I run mine on a bench with a prop, it is much more controlled.
What you are saying its pretty much how I have being doing it in my previous engines.
Just one question when you say "do this twice " what do you mean? 2 tanks or two 2 mins cycles
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:05 AM   #7562
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I just wanna do it this time the best possible way
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:17 AM   #7563
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Originally posted by rodrigo1508
I just wanna do it this time the best possible way
yep. good luck my friend. the more people give feedback, the more experience you can be. you just have to try it yourself.
Next engine...i wanna try the WOT(wide open throttle) style of running-in the engine. they usually done it in 10 minutes.
they keep putting fuel while the glow starter is still attached. thats sure fast.
i think InitialD doin this style WOT and Goldfinger...and i know Joehwee from singapore also doing it. [i maybe mistaken someone else! ]

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Old 04-03-2004, 01:20 AM   #7564
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Originally posted by cyba888
When I used to live in KL alot of my friends were all Kimi and Mika fans
Ah ... that includes me!
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:20 AM   #7565
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Originally posted by jfc_tech
I usually run at least the first tank, 1 tank idling on a car stand (wheel off ground). I use hotter plug #5 for run-in. After that either one more tank idling or on road 1/2 throttle rich, tons of smoke then stop half tank.let it cool. start and let it hot reach 100deg, cool back...cool, hot,cool, hot. all the while the while leaning a bit by bit...until 1 litre, i think. well, thats me. Now my engine is still in good shape...my NovaMax P5. Now using #6Tf plug.
hey thanks for adding my website to your links on your website i will add yours to mine also!!
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:34 AM   #7566
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by clmbia45
[B]
Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Correct and not correct.

It depends what type of Ti you use. Most types of Ti are softer than Steel (6AL-4V for a starter which is the most common Ti used in R/C cars). The problem is using the Ti correctly. For instance, you cant use Ti outdrives with steel pin dogbones as these will just cut through the Ti outdrives in a matter of runs. yet you can use the steel outdrives and use Ti dogbones without any great deal of wear over a full year.

Probably because the titanium dogbones use steel pins (or at least the ones I had did). And you can't get them out to replace them as you can with the steel ones.
They used a type of brass which was softer than the Titanium and steel for the pins. These were removable and held by set screw. The brass being softer will wear out first but it will be gradual instead of over a days running. They were made by Smitty for the Yokomo. The reason for less wear is that a softer material being used as the driven part will act like a cushion and absorb the sudden impact (same reason pinions are alloy and spurs are plastic).
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:38 AM   #7567
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Originally posted by Marcos.S710
hey thanks for adding my website to your links on your website i will add yours to mine also!!
No problem.anything for a serpent driver...especially the good one.
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Old 04-03-2004, 03:22 AM   #7568
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
What you are saying its pretty much how I have being doing it in my previous engines.
Just one question when you say "do this twice " what do you mean? 2 tanks or two 2 mins cycles
Sorry, I mean two cycles.
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Old 04-03-2004, 03:37 AM   #7569
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
No problem.anything for a serpent driver...especially the good one.
Yeah, I agree. I went to the LHS today, they seem to HATE serpent, but I got a few things from them. Nitro Wash, paint, Orange(Obviously) and a really nice blue, called blue pearl. I gat quoted for a little compressor at R1800 which is ~$280. The thing is smaller than a shoebox!!! oh well, I need one so I suppose I will have to get one. The problem is that our power is 220v at 50Hz and we use different plugs, I suppose I could get one in europe, but it may be expensive to ship...
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Old 04-03-2004, 09:02 AM   #7570
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
No problem.anything for a serpent driver...especially the good one.
thanks!
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:49 PM   #7571
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Okay. First time Nitro guy. New 710 owner.

I've raced Electric TC for a couple years and know that I had to stock C-hub and Steering block spares.

What will I need on the 710? Any common breakage?
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:51 PM   #7572
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Quote:
Originally posted by JKA
Okay. First time Nitro guy. New 710 owner.

I've raced Electric TC for a couple years and know that I had to stock C-hub and Steering block spares.

What will I need on the 710? Any common breakage?
i havent broke anything yet but from what i hear it is the rear shock tower.
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Old 04-03-2004, 01:52 PM   #7573
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Quote:
Originally posted by JKA
Okay. First time Nitro guy. New 710 owner.

I've raced Electric TC for a couple years and know that I had to stock C-hub and Steering block spares.

What will I need on the 710? Any common breakage?
welcome aboard ,any technical question you can ask"InitialD" he is a book of knowledge when it comes to the serpent 710!!
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Old 04-03-2004, 02:23 PM   #7574
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Thanks!

I actually haven't built the kit yet. If there are any things that it would help to know up front before building the kit I would like to know. I'm trying to research the car a little to learn about it before building.
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Old 04-03-2004, 02:42 PM   #7575
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Originally posted by JKA
Thanks!

I actually haven't built the kit yet. If there are any things that it would help to know up front before building the kit I would like to know. I'm trying to research the car a little to learn about it before building.
Go to http://www.mytsn.com/columns/ and get the five articles from GLENN CAULEY hi is very good in explaining how to build the 710

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