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Old 12-17-2003, 02:21 AM   #1771
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Originally posted by pineapplet
(initialD - i sure hope you don't drive like i do though! that would be highly unrecommended! )
Are you sure?
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Old 12-17-2003, 02:22 AM   #1772
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OK... i'll bite cos i'm new to this thread.. what *is* a "luxurious file"??????
I think Goldfinger referred to his diamond file.
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:39 AM   #1773
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Originally posted by Data
it might not be a good idea, just imagine all those extra interference got picked up by the two long wires.

I tried using this exact same crystal extension one year. It lasted 1/2 of the first raceday before I ripped it out. I was getting waaaayyy too much interference. Removed it, glitching disappeared!

Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:35 AM   #1774
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Originally posted by InitialD
No, not that I don't like to have one... I was thinking of running the 705 ! I still enjoy driving it. With all the racing in the forums that I do, the 705 hardly gets any track time ! I was planning to get one in due time but not this fast...

Besides, like Mark says, I would not know if the wifey approves !
Yeah, just say that Mark is totally incompetent and can't build the car - he needs it building and testing
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Old 12-17-2003, 02:04 PM   #1775
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Tip:
- 808340 Ball-cup for pivot ball 8.5mm
808344 Adjusting nut M10, using CA glue this part together.
You will get tight joint and still manage free suspension.
The fit of these parts is tight enough without glue.
Just take care during installing. It is easy to push on the nylon part during the first couple of turns of the alu nut. That unseats the nylon insert. After the alu nut threads in straight push on the pivot ball to pust the insert back in place then little by little screw in the alu nut till the play of the pivot ball is gone but it moves easily.

Sometimes 1/16th of a turn can make the difference between play and binding....

In general, build the entire car (leave shocks off) and then check the freedom of movement. Like Goldfinger said, intalling all parts can sometimes make a huge difference. The fit of the car is very good (I think ) but we did not want to create free movement with excessive play. As some parts need others to construct the complete suspension it will sometimes seem to bind until you install all parts.

I have got my own car now and during building I thought I found a bad fit. It was in the brake cam. After I took a knife and did some reworking I found I had overlooked the shim in the manual......
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Old 12-17-2003, 06:57 PM   #1776
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Originally posted by Julius
The fit of these parts is tight enough without glue.
Just take care during installing. It is easy to push on the nylon part during the first couple of turns of the alu nut. That unseats the nylon insert. After the alu nut threads in straight push on the pivot ball to pust the insert back in place then little by little screw in the alu nut till the play of the pivot ball is gone but it moves easily.

Sometimes 1/16th of a turn can make the difference between play and binding....

In general, build the entire car (leave shocks off) and then check the freedom of movement. Like Goldfinger said, intalling all parts can sometimes make a huge difference. The fit of the car is very good (I think ) but we did not want to create free movement with excessive play. As some parts need others to construct the complete suspension it will sometimes seem to bind until you install all parts.
Yah i found thats quite true of the rear assembly.. only with the diff in and the shocktower and graphite plate on did the rear susp start to act right.. (still not really loose, but can't complain).

Btw, does anyone finding himself in need of THREE or FOUR hands for assembling the servo saver????
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:42 PM   #1777
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rene C.
I think to build in 5 hours a serpent race car is a record J.

About your nice Tips :
I was driving with the belt tension like in the manual for more than 20 hour without any problems. But itís not bad thing to tighten it a little.
The second tip is a nice pne.

About the thinks you donít like :
Itís not true that you must take off a stiffener to get the engine out or in the car. In begin itís easy to push the brake-disk to the right side until the flywheel has passed. After a few tries itís no problem any more.
About the hinge pinís: You can do it like you did, but than you can not get it out that easy when you want to change the roll centre. So one good and one bad thing.


You donít must wait until Friday take a day of.

Rene
Im no expert in building, just too much serpent kit is built by this hand. No filling job is defenetely cut xtra time needed to make a perfect fit.
- I mentioned 5 hour is without electronic and shocks. last night I spend another 4-5 hour to build it. No problem with receiver if building it just like in manual (I use FTB PCM, R113iP). The tricky oart is on throttle linkage. Due to bigger diameter of roll over bar, just make sure linkage doesnt touch bar nor fuel tanks.
- Hinge pin, you right. There is always a trade off. But it would nice if you modified your tooling(moulding) to make some sort of bumper.
- Engine Mounting. What I mean is to install the engine with engine mount installed. I usually trim each engine with individual engine mount and centax too.

I should be able to hit the road by this afternoon but I have too make slight modification on my hudy setup (new hole on the rear wheel block).

Hi, Julius for overlooking the shim.. you are not alone.
Quote:
It is easy to push on the nylon part during the first couple of turns of the alu nut. That unseats the nylon insert
This is why I always glue those part together.
Push back the ball joint to hold insert in place is good trick also.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:12 PM   #1778
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Originally posted by pineapplet
Btw, does anyone finding himself in need of THREE or FOUR hands for assembling the servo saver????
Put the assembly (without top bearing and plastic guide) on chassis, push upper (802143) Servo saver with your thumb and lower servo saver with other finger then slide the e-clip with your left hand, halfway is enough to holds it. Then use your plier to settle on the clip.
Stand up while you push down the servo saver and make sure your chasis is completely flat on the table.

Yes.. it is not an easy thing to do. My thumbs still "in red" by now.

Maybe if you have a small vice or small C-Clamps it would be helpfull.
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Old 12-18-2003, 12:55 AM   #1779
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Default 710 Setup Question

Julius / Rene,

Looking at the setup book that comes with the 710 kit, the recommended setup on the last page details that the front and rear tires should be 62 mm.

So, if I use a new set of tires (approx 66 mm), then my set up ride height should be at 4 mm but my front downstops should be +2 (instead of 0) and rear downstop should be +9 (instead of +7). Is that correct? Why is there an upstop?

What about changes to the stock front and rear roll center positions when using the larger 66 mm tires? DRS arm position? Thanks.
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Old 12-18-2003, 01:22 AM   #1780
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Default Re: 710 Setup Question

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Julius / Rene,

Looking at the setup book that comes with the 710 kit, the recommended setup on the last page details that the front and rear tires should be 62 mm.

So, if I use a new set of tires (approx 66 mm), then my set up ride height should be at 4 mm but my front downstops should be +2 (instead of 0) and rear downstop should be +9 (instead of +7). Is that correct? Why is there an upstop?

What about changes to the stock front and rear roll center positions when using the larger 66 mm tires? DRS arm position? Thanks.
The nubers are correct. But it will mean that you will need to change the settings constantly as the tires wear down. The setup in the book will work with tires anywhere between 64-58. As with any setup it's a compromise. The roll center is affected by the change in setup you propose. But the change is small and in my opinion does not require compensation.

We tested the car with 64-55mm tires. We used a setup for 61mm and just ran the tires to the rim The change in handling was surprisingly small.
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Old 12-18-2003, 01:29 AM   #1781
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Default Re: Re: 710 Setup Question

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
We tested the car with 64-55mm tires. We used a setup for 61mm and just ran the tires to the rim The change in handling was surprisingly small.
Thanks for the quick answers Julius. Good to know that the car has a wide sweat spot.
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Old 12-18-2003, 01:37 AM   #1782
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Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks for the quick answers Julius. Good to know that the car has a wide sweat spot.
As you may recall, that was one of our goals!
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Old 12-18-2003, 02:07 AM   #1783
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Put the assembly (without top bearing and plastic guide) on chassis, push upper (802143) Servo saver with your thumb and lower servo saver with other finger then slide the e-clip with your left hand, halfway is enough to holds it. Then use your plier to settle on the clip.
Stand up while you push down the servo saver and make sure your chasis is completely flat on the table.

Yes.. it is not an easy thing to do. My thumbs still "in red" by now.

Maybe if you have a small vice or small C-Clamps it would be helpfull.
Tnks! Brute force it is then...

Has anyone ever wrenched on a serpent with their hands looking like cooked prawns after??
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Old 12-18-2003, 02:19 AM   #1784
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Quote:
Originally posted by pineapplet
Tnks! Brute force it is then...
May the force be with you !

Quote:
Originally posted by pineapplet
Has anyone ever wrenched on a serpent with their hands looking like cooked prawns after??
Yes, that was with my first build of the Impulse PRO !
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Old 12-18-2003, 02:21 AM   #1785
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 Setup Question

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
As you may recall, that was one of our goals!
Looking forward to run mine this weekend if everything goes well while I guess you'll be starring at yours on the working table or under the Christmas tree !
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