Serpent 710
Originally posted by 840918001
Hi Julius,
I saw Micheal Salven tested the new Mega's and looking not that fast.
Koen Geurds did use his own modified Nova Rossi, and had some more power.
Why is it? Is it because he was testing relaiability or did he not had the proper gearing?
Bye, Thomas
Hi Julius,
I saw Micheal Salven tested the new Mega's and looking not that fast.
Koen Geurds did use his own modified Nova Rossi, and had some more power.
Why is it? Is it because he was testing relaiability or did he not had the proper gearing?
Bye, Thomas
Originally posted by InitialD
I don't think they are available. That's what MS mentioned in the Talk Backs of one of his race reports. Something to do with the mold.
So the only option is to use a 1.2 mm drill bit and open up the existing 1 mm holes. I know it's difficult on the adjustable ones. That is why I use the fixed number of holes type of piston. Easier to drill but the down side is it is not adjustable.
I don't think they are available. That's what MS mentioned in the Talk Backs of one of his race reports. Something to do with the mold.
So the only option is to use a 1.2 mm drill bit and open up the existing 1 mm holes. I know it's difficult on the adjustable ones. That is why I use the fixed number of holes type of piston. Easier to drill but the down side is it is not adjustable.
Thanks for the info
Originally posted by Picard
Did you find any advantage with the 1.2 holes...seems like a bit of work
Did you find any advantage with the 1.2 holes...seems like a bit of work
I had a few sets of shocks around and with too much time.
I work with the fix hole set of piston. Not the adjustable ones. Easier to drill. Yeah it's a lot of work but if you're like me who like to tinker a lot, then it's kinda fun and the findings are pretty satisfying.
Originally posted by InitialD
Using it with thicker shock oils make the car feel more grippy on certain tracks while still making it stable and not lazy.
I had a few sets of shocks around and with too much time.
I work with the fix hole set of piston. Not the adjustable ones. Easier to drill. Yeah it's a lot of work but if you're like me who like to tinker a lot, then it's kinda fun and the findings are pretty satisfying.
Using it with thicker shock oils make the car feel more grippy on certain tracks while still making it stable and not lazy.
I had a few sets of shocks around and with too much time.
I work with the fix hole set of piston. Not the adjustable ones. Easier to drill. Yeah it's a lot of work but if you're like me who like to tinker a lot, then it's kinda fun and the findings are pretty satisfying.
Ok, so here is a close up of where it hits when the new part is installed. Both mine and Picards have hit here. We just shaved off a little of the bulkhead to allow it to clear.
Originally posted by Picard
OK..I have just put in 40W oil and red springs because the car feels a bit lazy at times.
OK..I have just put in 40W oil and red springs because the car feels a bit lazy at times.
Originally posted by Picard
My problem with modifying the pistons is that it seems like it would be the same as putting 35W in my shocks with standard holes? Or 40W with 1.2 holes?
My problem with modifying the pistons is that it seems like it would be the same as putting 35W in my shocks with standard holes? Or 40W with 1.2 holes?
Originally posted by packetdreamer
i didnt even notice
. however, they are the same size as the standard shock.
i didnt even notice
. however, they are the same size as the standard shock.
They work nice when put together perfectly. But the adjustment O-ring would often come unseated and make the shocks inconsistent. Also for ease of setup comparison the step-adjustment shocks are way better.
Originally posted by Pyramid
Most of the times, lower spring rate combined with lower oil gives you more cornering speed (very noticable on bigger flowing track at any traction condition). Yes, harder to drive since you always need to filled with enough throttle power right after going into the corner or you will 'break' the rear traction.
Most of the times, lower spring rate combined with lower oil gives you more cornering speed (very noticable on bigger flowing track at any traction condition). Yes, harder to drive since you always need to filled with enough throttle power right after going into the corner or you will 'break' the rear traction.
Originally posted by Julius
We cant make the 16T bigger. It would make things worse. I've been running the 16T in combination with 59 at the Euro's and been testing with the same gears for a while here at Heemstede. Seems not to be a problem.
If you run 16T I suggest using 59 with it. Maybe 60 but surely NOT 61!
We cant make the 16T bigger. It would make things worse. I've been running the 16T in combination with 59 at the Euro's and been testing with the same gears for a while here at Heemstede. Seems not to be a problem.
If you run 16T I suggest using 59 with it. Maybe 60 but surely NOT 61!
I am not suggesting the answer IS to make the 16 bigger either. Maybe the answer is ta make the 61 slightly larger in diameter instead?
I was just waiting an answer from Serpent and if you (as a rep of Serpent) are suggesting that that particular combo should not be used than I suggest this is announced at myTSN or maybe place a note in the current spurs or pinion packages which are not recommended as a combo.
Last edited by Sow&Steady; 09-30-2004 at 07:48 AM.
Originally posted by Julius
Actually the track of the Euro's in Austria was quite small with lots of hairpins. The new saver was better there too.
It gives a little more steering in the corner and a little less going in. So you have less chance of the rear en stepping out entering corners. Then you can run slightly more front grip and still have good balance and added steering.
Actually the track of the Euro's in Austria was quite small with lots of hairpins. The new saver was better there too.
It gives a little more steering in the corner and a little less going in. So you have less chance of the rear en stepping out entering corners. Then you can run slightly more front grip and still have good balance and added steering.
Originally posted by Julius
If you make the diameter bigger you couldnt mesh both 1st and 2nd gear at the same time.
It's the combination of the two that seems to give problems. The 61 has it's teeth clesest together and that gives problems with the meshing with the wide open teeth of the 16.
Actually we'd rather make the 16t smaller in diameter as it would make the teeth a better shape. Unfortunately then you cnat make it fit over the bearing anymore....
If you make the diameter bigger you couldnt mesh both 1st and 2nd gear at the same time.
It's the combination of the two that seems to give problems. The 61 has it's teeth clesest together and that gives problems with the meshing with the wide open teeth of the 16.
Actually we'd rather make the 16t smaller in diameter as it would make the teeth a better shape. Unfortunately then you cnat make it fit over the bearing anymore....
) I'm going to try the 16-60 combo.
Last edited by Sow&Steady; 09-30-2004 at 06:57 AM.



