Does anybody know where you can get these weights?
There are from Kawahara Zac Project.

I think you have to buy kawahara chassis first....

I have those weights included from kawahara's mrx4 chassis.

Bishop what tires were you running?

Hi... a friend of mine that has a MRX5 and the Sanwa X had the same problems and asked to Sanwa for some suggestion and they replied that they were know about this issues and the best thing to do was to moving the receiver to the left side.
And really no more problem with the receiver on the left ;)

Baker looked really good with the car at the Nats. Unfortunately he ran the tires off and fell down in the order but he was very quick.

Few different brands and shores, I actually started with some 35 speedmind front and rear, but if anything they were far too grippy, moved to some 40's front and rear (also speedmind), which were not bad, but I chunked the left rear first session out with them, ran them though till the final, where I had taken enough off the fronts that some old 42 Matrix rears were a good size match.

Interesting notes within all that, the 5 ran remarkably well with a badly chunked tyre, and it was also quite driveable with 40/42 in the final, also I ran from quite large sizing at the start and the car handled that well.

But, after playing with what I did, 37/40 is what I'd say would work best, though I had none of that combo to try, plan for me is to get some Caps or Contacts in that shore for future use.

Actually maybe worth noting is the camber I ran, tyres came off the final showing fairly even wear, and I went in running 1.5 Deg fronts, 4 Deg left rear, 3.5 Deg right rear, could have tweaked that a little, like left front maybe 2 Deg, but it depends on how fussy you are with how evenly the tyres are wearing.

did you try running a higher ride height on the rear with more droop on the rear also? you could also try pro squat on the rear to keep the weight on the front tyres.

Does the car feel like it lacks front end steering or is it that the rear is too grippy and not rotating enough?

It really does just feel like the front alone lacks steering, which relates to not wanting to turn in, and what feels/looks like chronic understeer.

But, I'm wary of wanting to simply shift ends in grip levels, as while the back end feels grippy it does not feel too grippy if you get what I mean, the back can be coaxed into a bit of a slide of which it pulls out of nicely though.

Given a lot of toe out made it so much better, or at least driveable, that seems to confirm it's lacking grip on that end, so I think it just needs a softer front end, while kind of trying not to soften it too much in relation to the rear.

Just ordered a couple of minor parts I will try next outing, basically some more two hole pistons for the front, purple front springs, and I'll try a fill of 450cst oil all around, I wanted thinner bars front and rear but I'm told they are two weeks off coming in.

i recon the two hole pistons will be the thing that makes it steer better. I'm not sure if you remember but back in the mtx4 days people would use 2 hole pistons on the front because the 4 had the same understeer on entry issue. I'm only guessing, but i recon the thick oil packs up on entry because it can't pass throught the piston hole.

if you have spare pistons, try drilling three holes into some pistons for the front and run 600wt oil, and see how it feels. Personalyl i wouldn't go to really soft springs because sometimes it makes the car feel mushy.

if you want more overall grip on the front you can also go with a narrower front end. Whenever i race on a slippery track i go as narrow with my track width F&R as possible, as it gives great grip to the front and rear. Only 1mm narrower each side is more than enough, you'll be suprised. Just go narrower on the FRONT to begin with, then if you want try a narrower rear.

are you using the 25 tooth pulley or the 26? If the mtx5 is anything like the NT1, then 1:1 front and rear drive the car will handle better with equal front and rear diameters, on a long race usually the 1:1 drive front and rear feels nicer and more consistent that the overdrive to the rear (just my personal preference though)

Just based off some light tech reading, I also suspect the piston change alone may be what fixes it, but I want to see how the softer springs feel on a bumpy track.

I was running the stock 25 pulley, and trying to keep a 2mm split all day, so trued down the fronts twice until that final where the 42's I had were 2mm larger than the fronts had become, in the final with 40/42 wear was quite even front to rear.

Not real sure of what the Mugen pulleys relate to in 1:1 drive ratio on the 5, with the setup sheet saying to run a 2mm split with 25 pulley, I'd guess that is 1:1?, meaning 26 tooth pulley gives 1:1 with same diameter tyres front and rear?.

With the 26 pulley you don´t drive any split on the tires. Just used when you drive rubber tires, like in rain.

I like to drive always softer tires in the front than in the rear. First you have more steering and you tire wear is much better.
In qualifying you can use for example 35 front and 37 rear and for the finals 37 front and 40 rear. On high grip conditions or when it´s very warm, you can go higher with the shore.

The 600cst oil is too thick. But I think that is just the starting oil. So that the car is easy to drive. Don´t forget, not everybody who buys a MTX-5 has experience with that class.
I would start with the standard pistons and use 400 or 450 oil and also use the standard springs.
I would also change the ackerman position and would push it to the most forward position.

The next thing is to check your track width. I prefer to drive the front a little bit less than the rear. For example 197 or 198 in the front and 199 in the rear.

What a lot of people forget to check, is the downstop. In most cases you can use 4 in the rear and 1 in the front. But sometimes it´s important to play with it. The effect in my opinion is great when you change for example to 5 in the rear and 0 in the front, or only 0 in the front and 4 and the rear.

Bishop i would try a lighter front diff oil.
I believe the stock front oil is 200k?
The duffs are similiar in size to the X-ray/Capricorn and we run 150f 70rear

If mugen don't have the option oils I would use Capricorn oil
It's very consistent

theyre just released and ready for sale in the us in the coming weeks

http://ashfordhobby.com MTX5 1/10 Nitro Touring Car

In stock. My hat is off to Mugen USA for suppling all the parts required to race this car on our first stock order.

I actually thought about that on the day, so something else I may try, but I may wait till I can build a couple of spare diffs to try that, really you would kind of expect the car to turn in even with a spool though, but I guess if it's now been built specifically with a front diff in mind.


To be fair, with the delays you got getting the kit, the spares caught up with the kits by the time they came in, by the looks of it.