Expect near zero brakes when you first put it out, I had to crank up the end point a lot, and even then had to drive a short loop just off and on the brakes to get some bite, then during that first meet the pads improved with each heat, so I was turning the brake end point down every heat, by end of meet they were good bordering on great.

had change some setup from the standard :

front upper arm position up
front shocks piston std 2 x holes / kyosho 400 oil / Mugen dark blue
rear shocks piston std 1 x hole / kyosho 400 oil / Xray silver
front shocks position all down
front diff oil 300,000
P56 bodies

with this change, car run with a little over steering coming out of corner, my friend have not with a P37 and i will try later. also may try softer spring to safe tires. :sweat:

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_4340.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_4344.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_4345.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_4348.jpg

Anybody run a front spool yet ? Is the spool an option for the Mtx5 yet ???

There are locking inserts available for X-ray diffs which would turn an MTX5 diff into a spool. But do you really think that a spool is the right way to go if the reports of lack of steering are right?

Kindest regards,
Lars.

A purpose built spool is lighter than a diff with inserts . I know people say they can't steer, but I think it is a setup issue more than anything else . Fast guys don't steer much anyway . I'd rather have a dedicated spool available with some ecs drives too... Much less maintenance while passing goats all day long ....lol...

Spools are a driver preference deal. Ask 20 different drivers that are running the same car at the same track and you will get 20 different answers. IF your a drag brake or a push brake master spools may work fine. It's mostly preference. However if your struggling for entry steering the spool is not a good choice, it can however add on power/ middle- exit steering...

Cheers

:weird:

Had my second meet with the 5, gave it a bit of a beating really, likely cause I'm still not all that comfortable with it yet (two meets of driving with no testing other than in the meets so it's not surprising).

This time out was not the only 5 pilot, so it was nice to have other people to bounce ideas off, while more piston holes up front does improve turn in, I'm not sure it's enough, friend also running the 5 was basically running the Pietsch setup, so I also tried the raising the front arms with the grub screws, and that does actually create a lot more turn in, but the back becomes more twitchy on exit.

Some of the things I tried also did not work, maybe it's cause I still have not done much time in Pro touring, but with the power and speed I just find it hard to find the tight lines I want, and the nitro is not very forgiving to let you change a line once into a corner.

Right now though, I'm really thinking lighter front diff oil, my track is far too bumpy, and 200k won't let me alter my lines when I need to, that and I tried purples front and rear and had to put the light blues back on the front, though I feel something is missing to let me run the purples again up front.

Something feels strange with the stock kit bars and trying to soften the car, I feel like there is something to gain by messing with bar to spring combo, like back to heavier springs with smaller bars, or softer springs with a heavier than kit front bar, or maybe even just soft on both.

hi bishop,
can i suggest that you try to use only two bevel gears in the front diff instead of the four and keep the 200,000wt oil. i have used this in my 733 and found the diff work well with this set-up,to be ignorant it seems a shame that for such a car to be so highly waited on it seems that thru reading these forums it seems to be a lot of hard work to sort out.

If what your working on is turn in, make the adjustments to make the turn in better if that is where your struggling. Then make other changes like softer rear bar etc to make the car more drivable off the corner. Also rather than using 2 plastic gears in the front diff try 120-150k with all the gears...

quick question,if you soften the rear wouldn't that decrease turn in? so what about stiffening the rear end by either springs/stiffer roll bar? also try roll center adjustments of the bottom arms ( i think, if you raise the roll centre you give the car more turn in)

The biggest effect of the rear bar is on corner exit, yes it does have some effect at turn in but the longitudinal loading on the car has a greater effect. Similarly the front bar has more effect at turn in/ mid corner. Setup is always a series of compromises, you just have to recognize which your willing to make.

stiffening the rear will increase turn in. also track width, 200mm in the rear & say 196mm in the front and also reducing rear toe can help just to name a few.;)

if he was complaining of lack of grip on exit stiffening the rear bar won't help that...

Compromise is where it gets you, at one stage I gained a nice amount of turn in, but then trying to get back some rear end grip out of corners I lost some turn in again.

All this is while trying to soften the car enough to cope with a bumpy track, so what I'm finding may not reflect on the cars true nature, just that I'm working with some tricky track conditions.

Car has speed though, it's quick everywhere, and it's agile by nature, nothing 'wrong' with it other than my ability to set it up the way I want it, really I have such limited experience with nitro in general, and I have only been doing RC for two years now. :lol:

rx7ttlm: You telling him or you telling me.;)

What ever works for you might not work for other people and also each car is different. Might be best for him to try and find out.