I will be following your post after u get the mtx on the track, interested to see how it compares to your Hk!!!!
Both cars hav my interest rightnow......

How SLLOOOOOWWWW is your web site.

No matter how many times people have told you over the past many years nothing has changed, which is a real shame.

Like others I can't be bothered waiting for you web pages to load.

Like I said a real shame.

i found the links too short also...it's sort of annoying because the mtx3 and 4 had the same silly small cup joints, you would think that they would provide the long ones and short ones together for short and long links.

i'm suprised you said that it understeers:weird: the mtx5 looks like it would have mega steering. Is it entry understeer or exit understeer?

Maybe use two hole pistons at the front if it is understeering on entry. I prefer two hole pistons on the front and i tune the bound/rebound with the oil and springs.

Its on exit it was understeering fixed it now but was bad when I first drove it..

Probably most annoying I have sent them lots of emails asking, is there a reason website so slow then if i know why i may be more understanding, but rudely they never reply, beats me why they just wouldnt explain and be upfront
to there thousands of potential customers, its a tough business world out there, yes real shame.

well the build level is the same as the KM HK-1! same fun!!!(I haven't finished)
on the track it will be test next friday at the local track!!!

The KM handles great!!! lot of traction and tons of steering!!! the MTX5 will be the next post theme!!! maybe the HK-1 will be for sale!

how did you fix it? did you raise the rear shocks?

Lots of things, raised the rear shocks, thicker oil in both difs, softer oil in front shocks, more down stop in front, cant remember everything but in the end it was realy good and easy to drive, I also put the wheigt almost al the way back, from memory 30-35mm

does anybody who has driven nt1 or velox v10 in past tell us the differences on handling , to compare the two cars on the track?

Having a blast putting this thing together,just want to thank all that posted what to look out for doing the build:cool:

Me to
Forgot how good and easy the shocks are to build:D

they definately are not in the difficulty range of the xray shocks

The shocks were an easy part of the build, no drama or anything overly complex.


I just got home from my first outing at England Park Raceway, car in kit build form was a mix of good and bad, nothing I did not expect though from a new model.

Our track is bumpy these days, so really everything was just too stiff, so really I need thinner shock oil and maybe some purples on the front, and maybe on the rear.

What was frustrating, was severe lack of turn in, maybe from lack of front end grip or other, actually softened the front bar by moving out the links (though you can't go out more than 2mm from flush), and stiffened the back by pushing in 2mm (though moved that back to flush for the final).
But, neither fully worked, and in the end my pit man to the stars (thanks Trev) did a quick wind of the steering links before a heat and about 5mm total toe out made the car driveable.

But I was fighting the car most the day, so I'll have to find ways to give the car that turn in and front grip I want, I'm looking at the Rob and Fuk setups right now, and I see raised front roll centres (on Robs), inward shock mounting (on both), and larger piston hole options on both, also softer shock oils in each and softer springs, a lot of which makes sense to me now.


On the up side, considering the overdriving I had to do to get it round the track, it was forgiving in a sense, and the driveline efficiency is there in droves, the car was surprisingly fast with my N12T1 engine, it has good roll and seems to put every ounce of power to the track with a lot less loss than I felt on my 4.
It also took a relative beating (it's only my second outing in open/pro touring), so some taps and tumbles, yet nothing broke, got to look a little closer into the two speed as it drifted a bit during the day, but 4x 5min heats, and a 20min final and all gears look almost as good as new, no signs of stripping etc.

i was going to say Bishop, try two hole pistons at the front. I built mine from the kit with two hole pistons front (i drilled an extra 1.2mm hole in the stock piston) and two holes rear, this should give you the turn in you need. Also maybe run without a front sway bar and stand the rear shocks up. It's interesting that the car did not feel right with the 600wt oil. i was contemplating going down to 500wt myself. When the traction comes up in lilydale the 600wt should be fine, and get some stiffer springs also for the nats:nod:


has anyone played around with the 26 tooth side pulley? could someone tell me what tyre diameter split should be run with the 25 tooth side pulley and the 26 tooth pulley?

You guys driving mtx5 have problem with run away car ?

I look inside mugen seiki website, mtx5 and mrx5 have same radio receiver box.

Yesterday my friend total lost his car ( mrx5 ) on straight, .... his car hit the wall very hard .......... ( I want to tell him there is maybe heat and vibration problem with mrx5 radio box, thus he should consider to remove the receiver casing and stick the naked electronic pcb with thick foam to radio box ). But before I tell that suggestion..... I want to make sure my suggestion is a good one, so you guys in mtx5 have run away car problem ?