Mugen won't risk to make something may hurt its brand

How are the part numbers irrelevant? mugen did a branded pack for the 4 and looks like they are for the 5. They have different part numbers so wondered if it was a different size.

actually is a lipo as he is running high voltage servos, its the lipo from LRP 2400mah, enought
for 2 hours racing

Sorry to disagree but I think Robert use two servos Sanwa (Airtronics) SRG-BL Low Profile Servo (6V) if he had to use a lipo voltage converter. Can be seen in the photos because the SRG-BL are the only ones who have your ID horizontally.

I'd like to see a shot of the radio box if possible. Looks very compact. Can't tell how hard it would be to plug in and unplug the battery from the radio (a switch is out ofthe question it would seem).

yep youre correct, so its a life for sure

Yeah SEISICK, its a LRP VTEC LiFePo RX-Pack 2/3A Straight 1600...:)

My kit is on the way. ;)

I got 2 of the batteries coming so hope it fits.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Z11002S10C.jpg

Dan, i got my kit already ;) The only problem i'm concerned about is i asked Murnan to put my order on hold, then a few days ago asked him to go agead witht he order...yet i haven't heard back from him yet, and i need the engine by the end of this month:eek::( Hopefully i get my RB in time.

I'll post some build pics over the next few days;)

Just get a pic of one Tomas and use that lol, if you want i can post you my unused MM JLR to use for now

It 's a LRP 1600 mah LiFe ... I also use that

Because a flat RX pack is a flat RC pack, like a hump pack is a hump pack, they are standardized sizes, unless Mugen went out of their way to create a new pack size, it's all going to be much the same.


Given the pack in the 5 is mounted higher and to the left now, I'd say most will run a LiPo or LiFe, cause it just makes sense to reduce the weight of something now above the chassis line.

just some things i noticed whilst building the MTX5:

the instructions are not clear, and if it's the first time you build a kit, or even if it isn't, you will probably get a few things wrong and realise halfway through assembly. For example, the screw sizes aren't shown 1:1 so unless you have verniers you need to guess the size. There is no tips on assembly, ie (do this first, then this second) so you need to guess a few things.

the diffs are tiny!:weird:

the internals are the diameter of a 26 tooth pulley!, that's super small
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/P1080578.jpg

they weight next to nothing
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/P1080575.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/P1080574.jpg

Also, it isn't in the instructions, but it looks like you can use grub screws to adjust the height of the front top arms.

Just a word of note when assembling the gear holders to the gears: place the gears in the oven to warm them up, this will make it easier to insert the screws. i set the oven at around 80 celcius. Because of the hard carbon plastic, i found that when i assembled it cold the first gear was very warped. I placed the gear in the oven, then assembled it and it was rolling a lot more truer.

by the way, i found some small cracks on the other side of the gears where the screw comes out from, i'm assuming these occured when i inserted the screws whilst the plastic was cold

TomB, 1:1 screw comparison is on the 2nd page if I remember correctly.. The only troublesome thing is, if unsure able the screw size, is having to keep referring back to that page.. :)

Has any one got the assembled ready to race weight of the MTX5.

Cheers