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-   -   MTX 5 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/256255-mtx-5-a.html)

Seisick 09-15-2011 08:56 AM


Originally Posted by rave1010hk (Post 9660145)
My MTX5

dear sir, what is the size for the rear body screws that are white in the pic

Roger 09-15-2011 09:25 AM

Very cool kit. Thanks for all the cool pics and 411.

pegatinaman 09-15-2011 11:06 AM

hi! nice pictures and information i ll put mines soon! I saw on "chookgb" picture something wrong... I also used the pressure stabilizer and the tube to the exhaust so long and I always had problems and poor performance carburetion on my Novarossi engines. After discussing in forums here in Europe I recommend removing the Stabilizer Pressure and shorten the tube to the 15-17cms and the change was excellent! you should try it.

Chickentrader 09-15-2011 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by pegatinaman (Post 9661797)
hi! nice pictures and information i ll put mines soon! I saw on "chookgb" picture something wrong... I also used the pressure stabilizer and the tube to the exhaust so long and I always had problems and poor performance carburetion on my Novarossi engines. After discussing in forums here in Europe I recommend removing the Stabilizer Pressure and shorten the tube to the 15-17cms and the change was excellent! you should try it.

This info could possibly be of help to someone on the Novarossi thread. Perhaps you could post it there also.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

blis 09-15-2011 03:33 PM


Originally Posted by TomB (Post 9660719)
i had to do some dremeling to get my ko propo low profile servo to fit.
It also didn't help that i shortened the wires when i had the NT1 and the servo wire was half a centre metre too short. it fit but only just.

i'm using a regulator for my lipo and i really had some issues squishing the regulator (novak) and all the wires and crap into the box. :o

the build is almost done now.

Chook, from the picture it looks like it says Nova "Jese" :D

Tom if you are using a novak regulator with soft touch switch, have you resoldered the switch wires. Mine were poorly soldered.

TomB 09-15-2011 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by blis (Post 9662794)
Tom if you are using a novak regulator with soft touch switch, have you resoldered the switch wires. Mine were poorly soldered.


Hi H, i'm not sure which one is the soft touch switch. mine has an orange switch box thingy. it's been pretty reliable for me since i got it. i'm hoping that being tight in the box will keep it safe. but i am concerned with it. i'm waiting to finish the build before i decide where to glue the switch to.

i would run without a regulator but i'm not sure if the low profile koprop servo and the sanwa erg VZ can handle .4 to 7.6 volts. it would be great if i could just use a plug straight from battery to reciever:(

blis 09-15-2011 11:13 PM


Originally Posted by TomB (Post 9664173)
Hi H, i'm not sure which one is the soft touch switch. mine has an orange switch box thingy. it's been pretty reliable for me since i got it. i'm hoping that being tight in the box will keep it safe. but i am concerned with it. i'm waiting to finish the build before i decide where to glue the switch to.

i would run without a regulator but i'm not sure if the low profile koprop servo and the sanwa erg VZ can handle .4 to 7.6 volts. it would be great if i could just use a plug straight from battery to reciever:(

Yep that's the one, it might be worth prying it open and re-soldering them.

TomB 09-16-2011 01:05 AM


Originally Posted by blis (Post 9664433)
Yep that's the one, it might be worth prying it open and re-soldering them.

faark...i don't have the right soldering iron for it anyway:(
what watage iron did you use Blis?

I think i know what mtx5 users will consider the biggest pain with this car...the removal of the front diff. I removed it after building it as it was leaking and you need to remove:
the top deck
the bumper bar
and one side bracket

lol basically half the car. Anyone found an easier way?

TomB 09-16-2011 03:05 AM

some little mods i did. Lowered the battery (using a lipo)

i also raised the height of the tank from the front and dremelled down the ball end as it was touching the tank limiting the overall steering throw. I'm not sure if i'll ever use this much steering, but no point limiting it i guess

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/P1080588.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/P1080589.jpg


the below picture is at full steering throw

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/P1080590.jpg

ABGDjr 09-16-2011 12:17 PM

1 Attachment(s)
hai guy... my new baby MTX5 in my workshop...:smile::smile::smile:

nikoskar 09-16-2011 12:23 PM


Originally Posted by ABGDjr (Post 9666453)
hai guy... my new baby MTX5 in my workshop...:smile::smile::smile:

lucky you.

nikoskar 09-16-2011 12:24 PM


Originally Posted by TomB (Post 9664598)
faark...i don't have the right soldering iron for it

I think i know what mtx5 users will consider the biggest pain with this car...the removal of the front diff. I removed it after building it as it was leaking and you need to remove:
the top deck
the bumper bar
and one side bracket

Are you sure about that?

ABGDjr 09-16-2011 01:18 PM


Originally Posted by nikoskar (Post 9666485)
Are you sure about that?

is right :cry::flaming: but very nice building kit :D:)

danjoy25 09-16-2011 01:48 PM

I have noticed that after 12 tanks or so running the car in last 2 days my front belt is getting minor wear marks on the flatside. I think the belt is rubbing on the stabilizer bar holder on full throttle or maybe small debris gets stucks and rubs on the belt as clearance between the front belt and the stabi bar holder is nothing. I will try to dremel the stabi holder to create abit of space and see if it will solve the issue. Everything else is strong. Drivetrain (Pinions, spurs, CVDs and pulleys) are still like new, no visible wear so it looking like a very strong car. :nod:

The car generates alot of grip so its good to drive on the corners so I have to set the clutch abit softer so it drives like an electric car ;););)

http://www.mugenseiki.com/images/mtx5/mtx5_16.jpg

Les 09-16-2011 10:39 PM

Front diff
 
Someone mentioned you have to remove the top deck to remove the front diff,would this be correct, seems strange.

Cheers


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