I got mine last night, worked on it some before a headache sent me to bed, lazy start back up again today, really I have only just finished the front end.

But things I have noticed, like Tom the instructions are not that clear, with the front end you wish they had said to do some things before building some sections, like threading in some parts, the plastics in general are 'very' hard, threading in some bits takes some effort, makes me wish I had some taps to pre cut some threads.

One tip from me, thread your sway bar link caps into the lower front arms before putting your arms on the car, they are hard to get in perfectly straight and true, harder when the arms are in the car like the instruction show you to do first.
I actually had to wind one out a couple of times cause it does not like to go in true, no chance of even tapping that one, which is a shame, be nice to see that pre threaded.

My observations on the front end in general, it's seriously small in clearances, everything comes within mm of each other, compact and complicated in design, I'm not about to say that is bad, just it is what it is, very intricate complex in comparison to anything else I have seen.

Oh yeah, and my lower bumper lip thing has/had a reverse bow in it, edges curve downwards, and molding marks on lower arms required filing to not foul and bind the suspension.

But I'm still finding it a beautiful car in general, everything about the design screams both complex yet almost overly thought out design, to copy this from another makers point of view would be amusingly hard, will be interesting to see what happens there.

Also I got an email back from Mugen today, that error in the setup sheet final drive ratio I noticed a few pages back, apparently they are aware of it and are soon to fix it, which is good cause I thought I was imagining it when I saw the mistake/misprint...

true my front bumper is the same. also don't do what i did and put the sway bar holders on the arm the wrong way lol. also the rear cvd hits the edge of the diff outdrive on full compression...but i doubt the shock will have this much movement.

also, i don't know if it was clear in the instructions but am i correct in assuming we need to use button head screws to hold the front lay shaft mount onto the chassis??? they stick out and subsequently you can't lay the chassis flat on a board, you need to use blocks.

have i used the right screws or are there special screws to hold the front layshaft bracket to the chassis???

Yeah there are some random left over short screws that had flatter heads, but they seem too short for strength there, the button heats could be flatter for sure there.

Also just found the rear shock tower lower screws seem way shorter than they should be, tops are 12 bottoms are 8, but surely 10 would work better, as the 8's barely bite in much.

And a quick tip from me, though it may or may not hold weight, I love the 'real' brake design on the 5, what looks like proper/rear brake pads, and a very real/proper surface on the brake disk, however both have light oil residue on them out of the packs, and in real cars this is the same, but on a real car you 'need' to clean brake parts like that with meths, as oils will badly contaminate the friction surfaces in use, so I cleaned mine with meths before final fitting, likely a good tip for better brakes?.

1685 so the small batteries will affect the race weight

Holly tank inserts batman, looks like a great way to get an extra min runtime... :batman:

But seriously, it's like the size of my thumb tip, I pulled the tank out of the bag and though it looked kind of large, opened the cap and there is the big black insert.
I do wonder if it serves a purpose though given the shape, I know too many cars vibrate so much fuel out the tanks during a fast fill, kind of hoping the new 5 is cleaner to fuel, but that for me just comes to not liking drowning my cars in fuel. :lol:

And did anyone else get tank mount posts not drilled through?, one of mine is drilled all the through for the clips, the other two have a hole in one side, and not on the other, strange sort of flaw.


I'm just about done building mine, apart from like shocks, and stuff I need to finish it, no hurry on those till I do get the final bits.
Few more notes from me, pipe mount top deck screw does not sit flush, meaning the brace that sits on top of it does not sit flush, spoils some of the finish of the car, sway bar links at the front need setting like 1mm higher from what I can see, at the manual recommended length it looks like the CV shafts may touch the sway bar during some normal movement.

Stuff I really like, the two back cases for the RX box are great, I'll use the large now, but when I get a spare micro RX it will be nice to use the small.
Also this car seems to have crazy amounts of suspension travel, you really notice it before you have the shocks in, and with a set of tyres on, where your lifting it up and it just seems huge, in general the suspension angles looks like this car was designed to run higher ride heights than previous cars, maybe I'm imagining that.

Edit: Oh yeah, and for those wanting more pics, I actually stopped building at various points during the build to take multiple pics with my cannon, so high quality images, the camera pics everywhere don't do the car justice.

[QUOTE=Bishop;9655516]Holly tank inserts batman, looks like a great way to get an extra min runtime... :batman:

But seriously, it's like the size of my thumb tip, I pulled the tank out of the bag and though it looked kind of large, opened the cap and there is the big black insert.

The MTX4s came with an insert similar to what you've described, but it needs to be removed to get 75ml of fuel into the tank. I've been told that the max. allowed fuel tank volume is less in somewhere, and that's why they have a removable insert.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

Had one of my mounts not drilled as well. Not a biggie and car is ready for it's maiden run tomorrow:)

keep us updated on how it handles compared to your last ride. i'm guessing it will steer like a demon because the top deck is very open on the front half:D

MUGEN SEIKI Some Option Parts Released !

My MTX5

i gotta say, i'm having a pain of a time trting to get the wires routed on the car. i'm trying to use a low profile steering servo and had a hell of a time fitting it in...now the wires are giving me pains:flaming:

What and where you got them weights?

My MTX-5
 

The car looks too good to get dirty :nod::(

When I saw the servo placement in the flesh, I'm almost glad I did not buy the low profile Savox yet, it looks a pain to fit the wires in there, not sure I want that grief when I fit some servos, maybe.

Pics of my build, though I'm still going with the clutch on an engine to see how it all fits on and in.
http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/?page_id=190


Actually, got to say I like the clutch, some hand fitting was required, my shoe needed some filing to fit in the back plate for it, diameter is a little off, but as a design it's a nice thing, no play where you don't want it, very easy to setup compared to older versions.

And, after finally test fitting an engine, the one thing I love that has played out in final design, engine looked easy to fit and remove on the CAD, and sure enough it's soooooo easy to fit and remove an engine, like crazy easy, access to front and back is beyond good, I really like this part of the car.

i had to do some dremeling to get my ko propo low profile servo to fit.
It also didn't help that i shortened the wires when i had the NT1 and the servo wire was half a centre metre too short. it fit but only just.

i'm using a regulator for my lipo and i really had some issues squishing the regulator (novak) and all the wires and crap into the box. :o

the build is almost done now.

Chook, from the picture it looks like it says Nova "Jese" :D