rene

running os 12cv-r(p) this is a side exhaust, infield i have no problems there, i am shifting into second gear because after the turn into the straight that is where it shifts/jumps a little. i was thinking that my gear mesh could be the problem so i did it all over again and still nothing. going to try the gearing maybe that will do something. this really has stumped though. but that is racing

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

I think the problem is your engine, it is probably rich as someone else stated. It is not a very powerful engine so your top speed isnt going to be very spectacular. If you want the speed I think you want you will need something that revs a little higher, changing the gearing wont help that much.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I don't think my V2 suspension can go UP enough to reach the shock tower...make sure your turnbuckle are install on the rigth side...chassis will bottom out first before the turnbuckle go all the way up...

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Hi Guys,

I'll be running an NTC3 at our next race meeting for the first time. The one I have is a factory team edition with all the goodies.

Having previously only run belt cars, I was wondering if it was normal for the drive line to make a little bit of gear noise?

When the car came it had previously been assembled (a little heavy handedly I must say), but never run. I stripped it down and checked the shims as it was a little noisy and one of the front shims had more than it should have.

Is there anything else that I need to know about this little bit of noise in the drive line? Car moves freely and rolls a lot more freely than my belt cars ever did!

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Michael.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

Just follow the manual on the shims, give it a couple of runs to break in the gear and walla, you have one of the smoothest car around.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

you MUST follow what the manuel said....especially the number of shims...too many shims will overheat (melt) the gears, too little shims will have too much space and strip the gears........AE designed the # of shims with engineering support, so there is no reason for you (and me) to alter the specific spec of the shims.

#2 things you have to know is..........FT NTC3 (with front 1-way) will required some drag brakes (or using ABS).......since you are belt driven owner before, you probably know that....but for me, I prefer to use front ball diff and using a lot of BRAKING....that is the beauty of NTC3............my car ran much faster and turn much better by using brake and front diff then how I drove on Serpent 705....totally different way to drive but my lap time is much faster.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Thanks very much for the advice! Much appreciated.

I actually got the car finished last night and drove it for the first time today!

Talk about a snappy performer. It has a lot more acceleration than my previous car. I'm only running a Picco Omega XT .12 (1hp) motor in it at the moment and it rips.

The handling is quite good, but I just need to work on the setup to get that sorted out (too much power on steering at the moment).

I hit a couple of kerbs and it didn't fall apart like I thought it would according to all the hype you read about the NTC3 being fragile. lol.

I did notice that the rear toe setting (V2 suspension) had changed by about 1.5 degrees so this could account for why it ended up having too much steering on power.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for the tips. I'm very happy with the car and can't wait for the next race meeting now.

Cheers,

Mike.

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

hey guys, im breaking in a ntc3 rtr plus with a friend, its running pretty good, but it glitches like mad, after 20-30 feet it goes all apeshit and full throts, it has a throt return spring, and its on am ch 6 right now. also, do any of you know how to get the rpm front bumper on? ive been trying and ive gotten no luck.

thanks

Punkynutt

I can help you with the bumper issue

Associated in all their glory has produced a different bumper for the NTC3 RTR vs NTC3 Kit. Some bright spark thort this was a cool idea. Note that I own the old RTR and not the plus

You would need items:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBLY1
sadly you'll only need the three pads
and this
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBLX5

Make sure though that this is still the case with the PLUS
The rest is RC 101. Good luck

jrabbito

Zoom,

The change in the rear toe could be attributed to the pvot balls. Have you checked them since hitting the curb? I mean actually unscrewing them to see if the are bent.

NTC3 is fine but the pivot balls are sensative. Better the pivot balls than something else.

John

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Clutch Set

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Let say CENTAX on NTC3 (again, only on NTC3) is a very luxury option.....a option that NTC3 does not need...

2 shoes or 3 shoes clutch respond much better and lighter, not to mention way cheaper....

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

im pending on a deal with a guy for his used ntc3, what parts do i need to upgrade the entire rear to version 2? please post links,

and is the collari xs .12 engine any good? would the os a3 plug work for it?

what do u guys use to clean ur nitro cars, this one has like grease and grime and nitro residue on it, whats the best way to get it off?

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

The V2 rear suspension part numbers are on the www.rc10.com website (just surf through to the NTC3 section).

For cleaning cars, take the electrics out of the car and then douse the whole lot with either denatured alcohol, nitro cleaner in a spray can, or buy a squirt bottle and a gallon of methylated spirits and clean away. I find the metho to be the most economical solution.

As for my posted issue the other day about extra rear steering, well, ol' fat fingers Z00M strikes again - I misread Barry Bakers setup (or didn't know how to use the droop guage ) and set the rear end to only 2mm of droop.

I adjusted that, changed the front blade to full verticle and the car is now sweet!

bbntc3

I've used the K-factory and the Kawara centax, I think they're over rated. The adjustability is sweet but to me the clutches are too small and over heat, causing disc and thrust brg. failure. The 3 shoe K factory clutch is all we use now.
It's a better clutch than the AE because of the clutch shoe material and it comes with a hardened flywheel. No more clutch shoes digging into the flywheel!