morpwr

moving the camber link down does raise the rollcenter but it doesnt increase traction this causes less roll,my guess is the increased traction you feel is due to the increased camber gain the sharper angle causes.

morpwr

check out rc boyz on ebay they take paypal,good prices,fast shipping.

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Just curious what setups you guys running:

1. Type of motor like JP, Novarossi, Mugen, etc.?

2. Pipe?

3. Car Bodies; do you use more than one?

4. Brand of tires; rubber and/or foam?

5. Hop up parts that you find useful for your ntc3 like suspension ver2.

6. Radios and servos?

7. What works and what doesn't?

Thanks.

rpmmaxxed

awesome pipe

RDLogics pipe

thomasf

iTrader: (8)

checkout ebay, put in a search under sellers for rcboyz. Or just go to there web site rcboyz.com, or call them 801-252-0244. They take paypal. They have the best prices when it comes to AE parts., way cheap.

jasoncsc

Rockdude: Thanks for the heads up on the K-Factory tank!

Actually I am also looking for a part to strengthen the shock tower/gear box cover. Over here "the fix" is not available, and the nearest thing I see is the carbon shock tower with metal bracket from K-Factory. Anyone tried that, and does it work on V2 suspension?

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

I have also have been really happy with the RD Logics pipe!

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Jason........I saw you from HONG KONG.........have you visit the Rcmodel.com.hk forum....? If you go there, they have a 50 cent modification of the shock tower mod exactly like the fix..........and you can get the material in HK...PM me if you want more info.

No...the K-Factory tower does not work with the V2, and the K-factory tower does not prevent the tower popped out from the diff case........THE FIX is still the only solution and it DOES NOT work with V2 (rear)....you just need that for the front.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I just found out my dual chambered pipe was bottomed out at the JOIN area and cause leaking............now, that is a good excuse for me to get the RD pipe...

Does any one beside EBAY....where else can I get that pipe for a good price...? Thanks.

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Try this:

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/188.html

rpmmaxxed

Ok guys, I have been hearing of "The Fix" for awhile now, what is this fix that everyone is talking about and what does it do?

I will be getting my new tc3 next week and I want to do as many positive things to it before i run it.

Thanks on the input, and any responses in advance.

speedydave

For those of you with the RD pipe, which tank are you running, and do you have any problems with how close the header comes to the tank/fuel nipple? I've heard quite a bit about that, but everyone seems to love the RD pipe...

morpwr

the trinity tower works just fine and does solve the problem of stripped holes in the diff case.it has seven bolts holding it on ,if you pull those out you just plain hit something to hard.after one whole season i have never replaced a diff case.also make sure when using longer screws in the upper outer holes make sure they do not make contact with the bearing race .tighten the shock twer on the first time with it off to make sure it doesnt.

Number 11

The header does touch the tank where the fuel line goes I used a stronger spring to hold the header and I haven't run into that problem anymore. It did melt a little bit of the corner but I have been running it like this for several races now and everything has been fine.

DMACK

I made several adjustments to fix this.

With the original setup, the header of the RD pipe actually melted the ring of plastic arounf the fuel tank nipple. First I cut off the outer plastic ring, and then the actual plastic nipple it self then slightly enlarged the hole and installed a metal fuel nipple with some plastic epoxy around the base to secure it.

This gave a much more secure connection to the fuel tank, where I have had the fual tubing actually fall off during a race.

Second I repositioned the fuel tank it self. I removed the carry handle to give a little more room, then I redrilled a new hole for the left front gas tank mount a little to the left of the original hole. Put a screw into the tank through it, and then rotated the tank touards the center of the car as far as I could without interfering with the drive shaft or the steering rack.

This gave me plenty of room between the gas tank and the header. No more worries about melting or over heating the fuel in the tank.

Finaly I cut small square pieces out of some old treaded street tires I had and put them tread up in between the chassis and the fuel tank with the orange o-rings sanwiched between the tank and the tire pieces. This has almost completely eliminated the tank foaming, washing machine effect vibration from the enging caused. Now there is only the slightest vibration foaming at idle, and none at all throughout the rest of the rpm range.

Just remember to use slightly longer screws to secure the fuel tank, to be sure to get enough threads into the plastic of the tank so they won't fall out. This does slightly raise the heigth of the tank, somewhere between a 1/16 and 1/8 but the benefits are worth it.