bbntc3

Danny: I don't think I got the gears anymore, I think I shit canned them. But I'll look and see, if I do, you got em bro!
Hell I don't need em back. If memory serves me right seems like the pinion teeth were just bent in and melted, and the ring gears had no teeth on it at all just indensions of where the teeth were. I figured the ring gear lost a few teeth then stripped the rest of the teeth, the melted looking pinion was from where he kept revving it to get it to move after it stripped. But.. I dunno, I quit trying to figure it out just replaced and went on.
I got your tires boxed buddy just can't seem to get them to the P.O. I'll try and get them out to ya this week. Works been crazy lately!! Since racing is over been working alot to make money for next season! LOL
So you got some ideas on the gears?? Email me buddy we'll work on it.

Maybe it was just some bad material in the gears. But all the gears that stripped were bought at different times and at different LHS. So who knows???

Good HP and more than a 4 or 5 tooth split and at some point in time you will strip something! Been there, done that!

So what about all the guys using the .08 module gearing?? Do they see any problems? Hell with those modules you can get alot higher gearing.

bhambrent

iTrader: (11)

Need a little help.

I'v lost my manual,and I need ball bearing sizes, and how many are in a set.

Thanks,

KMac

How 'bout this:

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...tc3_manual.pdf

I hate to see a car with no balls!

spawn

iTrader: (6)

nope rebuilt the night before. I think it was the high powered engine, 6tooth split and twisty, slippery, dirty car park track. If I have used a hyper CV I would have been creamed in my last race. Everyone is either using a 5port turbo std or modified, JP FX, Max.... Even with my NSR5port turbo I could hardly keep up with the rest of the guys.

bbntc3

If you guys don't know theres a few ways to shim the gears if you have trouble.

1. add 1 shim to the back of the rear pinion brg, (which will put the pinion deeper in the ring gear) I have also seen times where the pinions were alittle smaller and you can add 2 shims. This would help either ball diffs or oneways, but seems better on ball diffs.
2. add one shim to the outdrive brg on the ring gear side. this will move the ring gear over into the pinion alittle. This seems to work good for oneway and spools.

3. use the fix or get 2 longs screws through the case and use lock nuts on them. this cuts the flex down some in the cases.

I've always added the 1 shim deal to the pinion, this moves the teeth deeper into the ring gear.

The other method just sets more preload on the ring and pinion, why this works better with a oneway or spool, I dunno? Either method helps its just preference really.

These are just alternatives if anybody feels the need

spawn

iTrader: (6)

yup bbntc3, I have now move 1 shim to the left of the front diff. So it will move deeper into the pinion. I will try it out this weekend to see how it runs.

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

i havent stripped any diff gears. i guess im just lucky i run a puny 1.4hp engine i rebuilt the car, i found a bent hinge pin, bent pivot ball, and my bearing broke in 3 when i pulled it out of the front hub, im pretty sure all those contributed to the pulling to the right when i gun it. it seemed like after i fixed all of this, it still pulls a bit? maybe its just me though, ill have to wait till the ground dries to test it properly.

HELLION

One thing I cant understand is why the heck they cross cut the gears And I'm not to sure about just putting a shim in Is a great idea. (not saying it's wrong but the size of the shim can eather help it or destroy it IE setting the lash up to tight (knowing that metal expands when it gets heat) Thus making the gear back lash even tighter = more friction and more heat. Add the fact that it's a cross cut gear that has a smaller contact point to it's sister gear which also adds to the presser build up in the diff. bla bla Are you asleep yet LOL Shimming may very well help it. knowing what size shim to put in it is the question. Different tolerances require different size shims. Any way I'm going to tear the diffs down on the TC3 with the 21 in it and carefully mic. every thing and set it up the best I can and see if they can take that kind of power and I'll let you know what I come up with! I guess I should bring a broom just in case huh?

bbntc3

I just use the stock shims that come in the dif shim kits from AE. The extra shim does tighten it up abit, but after a few runs it loosens up ok. The pinion method is what Dennis told me some guys were doing with the old gray gears, when that was all you could get. Shimming the ring gear with a ball diff does seem to heat the ring gear up more, I;ve seen this cause the center of the diff to melt,(and the diff was set right, not loose). That's why I shim the pinion. So yes Dan it does make more heat.
The shimming deal will also work if you by chance had a diff apart and had alot of wear and you have no replacement parts. Just shim it one way or both ways and race!!!!!!!!!

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

How about siming it tighter than ususal and using polishing paste, or even toothpast to break them in? This would make the gears mesh better with begger contact points. A friend of mine used to that to his car, and it was the smoothes drivetrain, with just the right amount of backlash.

mxs

I gues it should be really here, so I am moving it from the main page.

Hi guys,

I would welcome anybody's opinion who has an experince with the below hop up parts I am thinking of getting before next season will kick in. I am strictly looking to improve performance, no beauty contest here ........

Here are three things I am inclining to (order means importance in my view):

1) K-factory low CG tank

I need a new tank since the old one was penetrated by RD Logics header. It's just sits too close (I am running MT12 engine) to the tank. The header moved and it was enough to melt rear end of my tank. But I was looking into this one for a while anyways

2) Clutch

I've been using three shoe clutch with hard springs. It's been all right, but I hear from people who use push type one (centex; is Centex a brand or system used by many manufacturers) that it makes a world of difference. I am aware of the adjustability advantage, but what else, because to me it doesn't justify the money spent especially if I race on pretty much two tracks during a season. So not much variety. So far I found following clutch systems:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=5926691445

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=5925624948

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=5926691380

3) Chassis

My current stock chassis is pretty beat up, scratched after two seasons of racing. It's not tweaked though and it works fine. So I am wondering whether one of those aftermarket ones which tend to be lighter and from higher quality alu would improve a handling of my car. I am not willing to spend more than 40USD on this, so the one from BMI is out of question. The one below is in my range:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=5925750827


I greatly appreciate anybody's qualified opinion.

Thanks

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

im currently running a gh aluminum chassis, those are pretty good, and cheap. they used to be around $30 usd on tower, but now they're at i think $50.

my friend got a hardcore racing titianium ntc3, with xs3, etc etc for under $600 cdn... look around maybe you'll get lucky

bbntc3

K-tank is good I think ,but that's me. That's all we'll use. The draw back is the lid leaks some fuel and the chassis gets sorta wet. As far as clearance goes , the fuel lines are routed different which is a +, but the tank top back rubs some header and engine combos if you use lower cg engine mounts, but the rub is'nt that bad. I use BMI chassis and all these problems were addressed with the Signature series BMI Chasssis.

Centax clutch- Not good for short tracks. it's the best tuning tool, yes, but, I think it over heats because of its smaller size. Long tracks, yes they are the ticket. But... alot of maintance

The best over all clutch for the average racer I think is the 3 shoe K- factory clutch, with a couple 1/16th holes drilled in them to lighten them for higher revs. For long track use, you may not want to cut them at all.
Hardened flywheel, 3 shoe clutch and springs, lower cg engine mounts, less than $25 from Hk, you can't beat it!!!]

BMI Chassis is the ticket!! No matter what the cost!. But... If it's not in the budget. The GH chassis is good for the price, but, you'll have to spend about $10 more than you budget. They're around $50
Theres a Hardcore racing Ti chassis and upperdeck on ebay . Its the $170 racing chassis and the $70 upper Ti deck. Last bid was $26 , it's used but..?? Do a NTC3 parts search.

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

BB
With the 3 shoe clutch, do I have to use k factory gears, or can we use ae gears as well. Really getting tired of the soft flywheel.

Tks

bbntc3

Chuck how's it going?? The clutch setup works with the AE stockclutchbell, so you use the Ae gears. the material of the shoes is much better than what ever AE uses so they don't melt or wear as bad. Also we use the lightened clutchbells and the extra dirt and grit does''nt seem to effect the shoes as bad, Hell all i do is spray breakclean into the cut outs in the bell and blow it out, hardly ever take the bell off to clean. I sometimes when they are available use the hardened K gears for the factory bell, they last longer but at $8 to $12 a piece is pricey!