bbntc3

I use the RD pipe with the K- tank, does'nt hit nipple but does rub tank alittle on top back. Also have melted it alittle. But for the performance gains and modded engines, that now stay tuned, it's well worth it!

roddude65

Servos

I run a 94357 from Airtronics on the steering and a stock 94102 on the throttle / brake ... never had an issue with not having enough brake ...

The Fix

I have never tried "The Fix" but I have done a mod that will work on both old and new towers and it has worked for me no problem .. what you do is get some Assc # 9644 screws .. enough to do both front and rear ( 6 screws total I think two packages ) then you have to drill out the towers a little for the bigger screw heads to go through .. but this screw is a little thicker than the stco screw and about a quarter of an inch longer so it grips in better ... and its lots cheaper and lighter than "the Fix" and it will work on both towers new and old ... the center screw comes close to the gears inside but I have never had an interference issue using them .... also havent had a shock tower pull out since if anyone is interested I will post some photos of what to do ...

revzalot

mugen MT12, assc dual chamber, stratus 2.1, Airtronics 94357 st 94102 tb Xxtra rcvr, just put on the V.2 and loving it so far ... still gotta run a parking lot with it tho, tires are normally Jaco Nitro Shoes in 40 sh, just got some Speedminds the other day have to run em yet and a set of Orions ( the store was out of Jacos ) I'll letcha know how the speedminds and the orions do after I run em ...

Jasoncsc

any time ... and its roddude .. as in hot rods ...

have fun racing everyone

E

thefuzzclub

can you show some pictures

morpwr

the fuzzclub,
sorry no digital camera,if you put a screw in the hole above the diff bearings for the shock tower(stock one or not)it will come right through where the bearing sits.longer screw will help even with the stock towers.usually what i do is just use a screw that is to long screw it in and cut it off with a dremel.this way you get the longest screw possible without causing the bearing to wear prematurely.doing this alone will solve most stripping problems.the trinity one is still the strongest by far as it uses seven screws,the stock three plus one under the upper hinge pin and the one that hold on the deck and side brace.hope this helps.

morpwr

has anybody tried this?the mtx guys are doing it with great reasults.real cars dont have rear toe so why do we need it?ive said this before and i think with the version 2 setup it should be able to work.no toe ,little starting camber(more tire on the ground)and use washers under the outer camber link to get the camber gain needed.let me know what you think?

roddude65

ahh ... I dunno if that sounds like a good idea ... maybe for really high bite tracks it might work ... but on most parking lot tracks .. I would be it would just lead to a very uncontrolable car ... the toe in on the rear helps to settle the rear of the car ... keep it from sliding around too much ... if you were to research most full on race cars do actually have some rear toe in not much but some .. indy cars for one ... most tube chassis road race cars ... lots of em .. yes street cars I dont think do ... but do you expect your street car to go pace alongside an indy car? I think not .. but hey .. give it a shot it might just work ... I know I came close to it once on an electric TC3 and the car wasnt easy to drive at all .. and lap times suffered severly ... along with the parts that I broke that was approximately 3/4* toe in rubber tires on a parking lot track .. running stock ... running the f block in place of the r , the r+3+0 rear toe block and running losi 1* hubs reversed .. comes out to about 3/4* toe in ... but hey give it a try if you think it will work .. then give us a heads up on what it does for you .. maybe it just doesnt suit my driving style

have fun racing

E

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Any successful experienced racer have race proven setups that they would like to share? Any sites?

ade

iTrader: (22)

There seems to be a lot of binding with the new v2 suspension. Has anyone found a fix for this? I just installed it last night so I have not had a chance to drive the vehicle.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tony

ZipZap

iTrader: (1)

Binding where?

I'm running 2 degrees toe-in, 2 degrees camber and it's pretty smooth.

ade

iTrader: (22)

Zip,

it appears to be in the area of the pivot balls. I dont even have the caps that tight. I check the arms and hinge pins and they are nice and smooth but the pivot balls and caps seem to be my problem.

Any idea?

Thanks

Tony

roddude65

ade

watch the camber link ends ... I had to loosen the screws about 1/8th of a turn to get the suspension to be free ... just tighten the bolt into the tower to bottom it out .. then when puting on the locknut just snug it down .. dont gurilla wrench it thats how I had to set mine .. I also put a little bit of penetrating oil on the camberlink balls ... just to help free them up some .. other than that mine went on fine and is working great ... going to start tomorrow with 3* of toe in in practice .. then maybe go to 2* of toe in ... see how that feels ... some complain about pushing with the 3* of rear toe in ... I like it at 3* toe in and 3* camber ... might try 2* toe 2* camber tomorrow for a qualifier I'll post how it feels ...

revzalot

I use Pavidis's worlds set up where I run pretty much .. I went up to 5.5 mm front ride height and lost the sway bar ... and went to 6mm rear ride height and lost the rear sway bar .. set up like that the car handles pretty good ... thats on a decent sized parking lot track Id say medium grip and med smoothness about 120 to 140 ft straight with usually sweepers and short shoots on and off .. little wider going off than on ... maybe 12X14 going on .. and 14X20 going off with a cut cornerof about 6x6 diagonal also this track is preped with a very high powre blower and a good sugar water solution

have fun racing

E

roddude65

ok .. just saw what you posted ade ... pull off all of your pivot balls chuck them up one at a time in a drill and pick the straightest 4 for the rear suspension .. the tolerances are a little tight and AE has put out some pivot balls that were supposedly out of round ... you might have one in the rear some where ... or maybe two of em .. but check that ... failing that try another set of arms and make sure they are threaded in very straight ... when I built mine I prethreaded the arms without the hub on to ensure I got them in perfectly straight ... also check for any flashing in the pivotball socket .. might be something in there .. never know ... failing all of that if your going to try to make the Lansing season opener I will be there ... look for the super slow guy with the neon green stratus with flame job putzing around the nitro class ... should be under a green and white canopy too ... I usually pit on the back straight .. hope to see you there .. its supposed to be in front of the store this year if you have ever been to the Lansing Hobby Hub .. I hope they move the track a little to get it off of the whoop section in the sweeper off like the summer classic two years ago .. that was interesting... but I digress .. any questions or need a hand thats where I will be tomorrow if the rain gods let us race ...

have fun racing

E

thefuzzclub

what binding are you pertaining to? pls be specific. i converted mine to v2 and i did not encounter any problems.

ade

iTrader: (22)

roddude65,

Thanks for the information. Sorry I wont be able to make it up to Lansing. I've never been up there to race. I usually race with the DRCCC in Sterling Hts.

I'll check and try the things you suggested. I hope you do well tomorrow.

Good Luck!

Tony

ade

iTrader: (22)

I'm not able to tighten down my pivot ball caps. If I tighten them the whole assembly is very tight and hard to move. I put a little oil on it and things are barely free.

I'm currently using the titanium balls. I'm going to go back to the steel balls and see if that makes a difference.

any thoughts?

Thanks,

Tony