Rc10ntc3
#6664
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
Joel, yes i know that hehe thats a pic the guy sent me before i bought it, ive put the rpm on the bottom since then, and after 5 hrs of cleaning it, it looks a hell of a lot better.
"A piece of silicone tube over your stinger will lessen the noise" by silicone tube are you talking about fuel tubing or a similar tubing that has bigger diameter to fit over the pipe? and how long should i make it? and by stinger i assume u mean the exhaust tip on the pipe?
yea im happy with this deal as well, but my dad aint too happy bout the noise.
"A piece of silicone tube over your stinger will lessen the noise" by silicone tube are you talking about fuel tubing or a similar tubing that has bigger diameter to fit over the pipe? and how long should i make it? and by stinger i assume u mean the exhaust tip on the pipe?
yea im happy with this deal as well, but my dad aint too happy bout the noise.
#6666
Tech Master
Whats the exact gearing on the Factory Team kit?
#6667
Originally posted by The Black Kat
Whats the exact gearing on the Factory Team kit?
Whats the exact gearing on the Factory Team kit?
#6668
Tech Master
Thanks
#6669
Tech Master
Originally posted by Z00M
I ran my FT NTC3 for the first time last weekend (first meet since the titles) and was 2 laps faster over 5mins than I was with the same engine! Needless to say I'm very happy with the NTC3
And I am running the one way that comes with the FT car.
Cheers,
Z.
I ran my FT NTC3 for the first time last weekend (first meet since the titles) and was 2 laps faster over 5mins than I was with the same engine! Needless to say I'm very happy with the NTC3
And I am running the one way that comes with the FT car.
Cheers,
Z.
I tried to set up the car to run one-way but can't get very far with it. Your brakes, do you set it up so that it drags when you off throttle (neutral position with little brakes) and when you hit the brakes it only slows down the car, right? Coz if you set the brakes just like if you have diff then the whole rear would throw.
Your comments most appreciated - Guru Zoom
#6670
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
With the brake setup when running the one way, I don't have any drag brakes at all. Only braking is when I press the trigger for the brakes. Even then I have it set to not lock up the rears. As close as possible without locking. While it is unual feeling after running with 2 diffs and a lot of brake, it works really well on the track. If you're out bashing or you have a much tighter track then I would suggest running with more toe out in the front and a softer spring to get the car into the corner quicker. You just have to learn to back off sufficiently and only use the brake when you are going to overshoot a corner.
As for steering with my setup, I have found the Mazda 6 body to have a very agressive initial turn in. So in conjunction with an understeer setup, this body works really well. With the Stratus body I would go to a softer spring than the purple spring.
I run the ball diff in the back and I have it set at about 1/8th of a turn out so there is lots of on power steering as the rear rotates really well.
Hope this helps.
As for steering with my setup, I have found the Mazda 6 body to have a very agressive initial turn in. So in conjunction with an understeer setup, this body works really well. With the Stratus body I would go to a softer spring than the purple spring.
I run the ball diff in the back and I have it set at about 1/8th of a turn out so there is lots of on power steering as the rear rotates really well.
Hope this helps.
#6671
Originally posted by cow buster
Hey read your earlier thread on your set up as well. with using 50oil and the further shock hole on the front (purple springs) don't you find entering a corner a little to understeer?
Hey read your earlier thread on your set up as well. with using 50oil and the further shock hole on the front (purple springs) don't you find entering a corner a little to understeer?
Originally posted by cow buster
R u running diff at the back? if yes, what is your diff set up like? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn or 1/8 turn or totally lock it so that its like a solid back?
R u running diff at the back? if yes, what is your diff set up like? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn or 1/8 turn or totally lock it so that its like a solid back?
Originally posted by cow buster
I tried to set up the car to run one-way but can't get very far with it. Your brakes, do you set it up so that it drags when you off throttle (neutral position with little brakes) and when you hit the brakes it only slows down the car, right? Coz if you set the brakes just like if you have diff then the whole rear would throw.
I tried to set up the car to run one-way but can't get very far with it. Your brakes, do you set it up so that it drags when you off throttle (neutral position with little brakes) and when you hit the brakes it only slows down the car, right? Coz if you set the brakes just like if you have diff then the whole rear would throw.
You could also set the brakes of the car so that at "full brakes", the car will slow down enough for you to take the corner. The brakes must be set so that it does not lock the rear wheels. When the rear locks, the tendency of the rear to swap ends is high.
The last method is to use drag brakes. Don't confuse drag brakes with effectively putting drag and hence lowering drive train efficiency of the car. The drag brakes only come in when you let your throttle off. When you're on throttle, the drive train should be free and not binded by the brakes. Only when you let the throttle off that the brakes bind and slows the car down. Play around with the brake linkage and set it just enough and you'll find you'll be faster on technical tracks too with a oneway front.
Driving sytle must also change. Let go of the throttle a little further away from the apex (and start braking) that you would normally do with a front diff with late braking. If you're in advance mode of learning to drive with a oneway, you could tap the brakes and at the same time steer the car to take the corners very sharpy and FAST ! It's dangerous and it needs precision to do that. But once you are able to execute it, you'll be very fast around the corners !
Also, you should not have too much rear droop. Limit it. On the AE droop gauge, the numbers should be on the high side. If you are at +4 for example, set it to +5 or +6. Too much rear droop (lower droop gauge numbers) allow too much weight transfer to happen in the front of the car when you slow down or brake and hence makes the rear end of the car unstable. Thicker shock oils also helps to make the weight transfer happen at a slower rate and therefore makes the car more driveable with a oneway front.
Using a tighter rear diff also helps to brake more stable. With a loose rear diff, braking when the tires or track are uneven will make one of the either sides of the rear wheels to rotate in reverse direction during braking and hence your rear end swaps ends.
And yes lastly, make sure your car and shocks are not tweaked ! Else, whatever you do your car will not slow down in a straight line.
#6672
Tech Master
Zoom, thanks for the reply. Basically its throwing the car into the corners instead of the clean heavy braking into corners when driving the one way. thanks, will try the set up today.
#6673
Tech Master
Thanks D, u racing this sunday?
#6674
Originally posted by cow buster
Thanks D, u racing this sunday?
Thanks D, u racing this sunday?