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Old 07-12-2004, 07:29 PM
  #6661  
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REVOlution:
pick up a 5cell receiver pack and dump that "run away car waiting to happen" 4cell alkaline pack. Youll get longer run times and more steering power/speed. Not to mention a stronger more reliable pack.

Your RPM bumper should be below the foam not on top.
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Old 07-12-2004, 07:39 PM
  #6662  
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to make it more quiet, add one of those silicone exhaust deflectors that have a 90 degree bend in them. they help a lot.
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:23 PM
  #6663  
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It looks like a Picco Collari. A piece of silicone tube over your stinger will lessen the noise. Looks like you picked up a good deal
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Old 07-12-2004, 10:30 PM
  #6664  
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Joel, yes i know that hehe thats a pic the guy sent me before i bought it, ive put the rpm on the bottom since then, and after 5 hrs of cleaning it, it looks a hell of a lot better.

"A piece of silicone tube over your stinger will lessen the noise" by silicone tube are you talking about fuel tubing or a similar tubing that has bigger diameter to fit over the pipe? and how long should i make it? and by stinger i assume u mean the exhaust tip on the pipe?

yea im happy with this deal as well, but my dad aint too happy bout the noise.
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Old 07-12-2004, 10:35 PM
  #6665  
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A peice of tube a similar diameter to the stinger about 10-15mm past the end will help quieten it down. Yes the stinger is the exhaust outlet. Hope it keeps your Dad happy
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Old 07-12-2004, 11:31 PM
  #6666  
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Whats the exact gearing on the Factory Team kit?
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Old 07-12-2004, 11:33 PM
  #6667  
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Originally posted by The Black Kat
Whats the exact gearing on the Factory Team kit?
21/27 pinions and 54/48 spurs.
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:51 AM
  #6668  
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Thanks
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:11 PM
  #6669  
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Originally posted by Z00M
I ran my FT NTC3 for the first time last weekend (first meet since the titles) and was 2 laps faster over 5mins than I was with the same engine! Needless to say I'm very happy with the NTC3

And I am running the one way that comes with the FT car.

Cheers,

Z.
Hey read your earlier thread on your set up as well. with using 50oil and the further shock hole on the front (purple springs) don't you find entering a corner a little to understeer? R u running diff at the back? if yes, what is your diff set up like? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn or 1/8 turn or totally lock it so that its like a solid back?

I tried to set up the car to run one-way but can't get very far with it. Your brakes, do you set it up so that it drags when you off throttle (neutral position with little brakes) and when you hit the brakes it only slows down the car, right? Coz if you set the brakes just like if you have diff then the whole rear would throw.

Your comments most appreciated - Guru Zoom
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:28 PM
  #6670  
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With the brake setup when running the one way, I don't have any drag brakes at all. Only braking is when I press the trigger for the brakes. Even then I have it set to not lock up the rears. As close as possible without locking. While it is unual feeling after running with 2 diffs and a lot of brake, it works really well on the track. If you're out bashing or you have a much tighter track then I would suggest running with more toe out in the front and a softer spring to get the car into the corner quicker. You just have to learn to back off sufficiently and only use the brake when you are going to overshoot a corner.

As for steering with my setup, I have found the Mazda 6 body to have a very agressive initial turn in. So in conjunction with an understeer setup, this body works really well. With the Stratus body I would go to a softer spring than the purple spring.

I run the ball diff in the back and I have it set at about 1/8th of a turn out so there is lots of on power steering as the rear rotates really well.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-13-2004, 08:12 PM
  #6671  
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Originally posted by cow buster
Hey read your earlier thread on your set up as well. with using 50oil and the further shock hole on the front (purple springs) don't you find entering a corner a little to understeer?
With a oneway, you could afford to run harder springs and thicker shock oil. The oneway already would give you enough on power and off power steering.

Originally posted by cow buster
R u running diff at the back? if yes, what is your diff set up like? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn or 1/8 turn or totally lock it so that its like a solid back?
With a front oneway, a tighter rear diff is usually nice.

Originally posted by cow buster
I tried to set up the car to run one-way but can't get very far with it. Your brakes, do you set it up so that it drags when you off throttle (neutral position with little brakes) and when you hit the brakes it only slows down the car, right? Coz if you set the brakes just like if you have diff then the whole rear would throw.
There are many styles of braking with the oneway. You could tap a few times to simulate like ABS to slow down the car. This is to avoid the rear wheels fully locking and loose traction.

You could also set the brakes of the car so that at "full brakes", the car will slow down enough for you to take the corner. The brakes must be set so that it does not lock the rear wheels. When the rear locks, the tendency of the rear to swap ends is high.

The last method is to use drag brakes. Don't confuse drag brakes with effectively putting drag and hence lowering drive train efficiency of the car. The drag brakes only come in when you let your throttle off. When you're on throttle, the drive train should be free and not binded by the brakes. Only when you let the throttle off that the brakes bind and slows the car down. Play around with the brake linkage and set it just enough and you'll find you'll be faster on technical tracks too with a oneway front.

Driving sytle must also change. Let go of the throttle a little further away from the apex (and start braking) that you would normally do with a front diff with late braking. If you're in advance mode of learning to drive with a oneway, you could tap the brakes and at the same time steer the car to take the corners very sharpy and FAST ! It's dangerous and it needs precision to do that. But once you are able to execute it, you'll be very fast around the corners !

Also, you should not have too much rear droop. Limit it. On the AE droop gauge, the numbers should be on the high side. If you are at +4 for example, set it to +5 or +6. Too much rear droop (lower droop gauge numbers) allow too much weight transfer to happen in the front of the car when you slow down or brake and hence makes the rear end of the car unstable. Thicker shock oils also helps to make the weight transfer happen at a slower rate and therefore makes the car more driveable with a oneway front.

Using a tighter rear diff also helps to brake more stable. With a loose rear diff, braking when the tires or track are uneven will make one of the either sides of the rear wheels to rotate in reverse direction during braking and hence your rear end swaps ends.

And yes lastly, make sure your car and shocks are not tweaked ! Else, whatever you do your car will not slow down in a straight line.
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Old 07-13-2004, 08:15 PM
  #6672  
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Zoom, thanks for the reply. Basically its throwing the car into the corners instead of the clean heavy braking into corners when driving the one way. thanks, will try the set up today.
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Old 07-13-2004, 08:18 PM
  #6673  
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Thanks D, u racing this sunday?
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Old 07-13-2004, 08:38 PM
  #6674  
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Originally posted by cow buster
Thanks D, u racing this sunday?
Don't think so. Not enough time for preparation and I think I will be busy this weekend ! Besides, I think my engine is acting up. I still have not had the time to check it yet.
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:18 PM
  #6675  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Don't think so. Not enough time for preparation and I think I will be busy this weekend ! Besides, I think my engine is acting up. I still have not had the time to check it yet.
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