wild gopher

iTrader: (39)

so today i was at my hobby shop, purchasing the V2 upgrade kit when a guy walks in with a factory team kit in hand. I recognized him from the local track so i asked what he was doing with it. He told me he brought it there to sell it for a friend who couldnt drive nitros. I asked how much, he said $150. It had only been run 5 times and basically looked brand new. so I said to hell with the upgrade and took it off his hands. Was this a good deal?

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Not bad of a deal. I got mine for $125 off a fluke in Ebay. I wasn't planning to run 1/10 Nitro since my goal was to run 1/8 on road. I was supposed to buy the seller's JR Xr3 radio but I'm left handed and explained to him my dilemma. He understood and I bought the ntc3 off him. He wasn't able to run the ntc3 since his engine kept dying oh him and it's been collecting dust ever since. Basically it was new and I'm in the process of converting the chassis to a BMI. I think NTC3s are the best bang for the buck nitro racers. Parts are plenty and cheap. There are tons of hop ups! Finally, they're race proven. With the V2 upgraded suspension, I should be able to hang with those expensive snakes and Hondas.

wild gopher

iTrader: (39)

was it the latest edition with the blue pipe and all that Barry Baker stuff?

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Mine was the Factory #2030 kit.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

The Barry Baker version is the Factory Team edition. As opposed to a team kit. The kit number for a factory team edition is #2033. This inclused the V2 rear end. The Team kit #'s are 2034 and 2035(pull start and non pull start) and I think there is another number for the RTR V2 kit.

Have a look at the website to confirm what you have (www.rc10.com).

Cheers,

Z00M.

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

hey guys, im setting up for my first track run on satuday. itll be my first time driving at a track instead of just spectating! If you have been reading my posts ive got pretty much the factory team v1 kit and it seems to be holding together quite nicely.

first off, what would general maintenance be to you guys?

secondly, i will be buying a servo today at the LHS, but my price range will be around 30USD, 40max. im looking for a good speed, relatively high torque servo that will give me a bit more of a kick than standard servos i am used to.

lastly, i was wondering if you had any protection tips, to prevent breakage on the car during running, as i have heard bad things and good about durability on the ntc3.

thanks guys, its now 133am and im off to bed.

RcRacerX

Well as far as breakage goes I would recomend to stay orr the wall/pipes

The Black Kat

I believe its #2042...I got one

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

General maintenance to me is:

Ensure the crown and pinion in the diff cases are lubed before you run the car at the track. Use either the AE stealth lube, or you can use the Tamiya Anti Wear grease. I use this and I find it works well.

If you have a V1 car, check to see what colour the gears are. If they're black then you'll need to upgrade to the white/cream colour delrin gears. This will save on some breakages.

Cheack all wheel bearings and clean replace if needed.

After each heat/race, check your setup including the ride height. I have found that having consistent ride height is probably the biggest influence on the cars handling if the setup is pretty close to good.

Apart from that, just pull the car apart when you're done for a good clean and it helps to discover any parts that may be dodgy by cleaning the car properly. After run oil in the motor afterwards as well.

Old Skool

I just retrofitted my older NTC3 with the new V2 rear end. Is the suspension geometry identical to the older settings, or are they different?

intimidator

i dont have the version two yet,but i dont think theres much of a change in geometry.if you got setup tools put them on with v-1,and check for camber changes when the suspensions compressed and not.same with the toe.then do the same with v-2.heard a some people say that they are way different in geometry.that reminds me i gotta call see if rc-boyz got them back in stock.i am curious too see ,so if someone feels like checking please post it here.better yet if some ones got v-2,and set up stuff ,set your car to 2 degrees camber ,2 degrees toe and write down the changes.ill check my v-1 and we can compare.

intimidator

oh yeah give me ride height with setup stuff on the car and how many degrees you compress the suspension.maybe no one feels like doin all that,really not all that complicated.anyhow,i found the v-2 at superior,and ordered it so if no one gives me any info ill post the low down on the v-2 rear end geometry compared to v-1.

blitz jon

hey guys this may be a little OT and im sorry if it is but im thinking about picking up a mugen mtx3 and getting rid of my rtr ntc3.Dont get me wrong i love my ntc3 but i think it would be more expensive to upgrade from all my rtr stuff(i already have a one way and 2 speed). Basically its the mugen plus top engine and pipe for 175 well taken care of. So basically im looking for you guys to talk me into keeping my tc3..lol..sorry if it sounds confusing.

Jon

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

Personaly I would stick with the NTC3, I hate changing belts all the time. The MTX3 seems to get great results on the track so they are a good car. I have not driven one so I couldnt comment on any differences in handling etc. But if you have the NTC3 & like it why change. If you spend the $175.00 on your car it will go along way to upgrading it.

elmar66

Having just done what you have, I can't talk you into keeping that car. Sell it...

You can get a Mugen for about $300 on eBay.

You'll spend more in parts fixing the NTC3 than the kit will cost you in a short period of time. No question the Mugen is MUCH better built.