CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

I have the ft tc3 since it came out. Granted I do not go plowing into things, but mine only has a slight bend and I do drive every chance I get. The RPM is better, but no need to change unless reck the stock one. Oh, I do not use the foam bumper either l

Zootcapri

iTrader: (6)

I used a heat gun and was able to get it back to the right shape. I heated it on the right and left sides and moved it until I had it where I wanted it. I used cold water to cool it quickly so it wouldn't sag into an unwanted shape.

hooked_on

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if the AE NTC3 V2 Pull start kit (2034) still comes with front & rear ball diffs?

hooked_on

iTrader: (1)

Also,

What is the 5/64" allen key driver used on? Pivot balls?

H-O

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Pivot balls are 2mm. Not sure what it is in standard measurement.

fathead

Yep 5/64" are used on the pivot balls and the motor mount screws and 2-speed adjustment.

AJC13B

I dont go driving into things on purpose either

What bumper do you use?

I dont have a heat gun, might try a hair dryer instead!

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

I am still using the FT bumper. I do have the rpm bumper from my orgional tc3, but I am waiting till I destoy the FT one first.

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

Hairdryer doesnt get hot enough. When I find that RPM bumper you will be fine. You can slam that puppy into anything & it wont bend

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

I am truing to put the mugan centax straight onto the tc3 with the tc3 ft mounts. It is not lining up correctly. Was there any moding needed for those of you who tried?
Tks

mgreen

Here are some pictures of the Ofna Power Clutch. 4 shoe.

No modification need. And it will use Mugen parts.

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

HMMM, I got the clutch on, but it is going too far toward the back of the car and not meshing right. I did put a shim behind the collet. I will try and remove it tonight and see what happens.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Chuckmando....

(1) Remove the shim before the collet, it is no Serpent, you don't want to add more shim in front and push the clutch further back toward the back of the car....

(2) Gether some of the little shims from #2321, use the small shim, and place it in between the 1st spur gear and the housing (see NTC3 manual page 6 step #16), the idea is placing those 3 shims will increase the clearence of the 1st/2nd gear of the 2-speed, the clearence will prevent the 2nd gear of the pinion rubbing against the 1st spur gear when the centax is engaging.

(3) Fromt the #2293 shim kit, place 1 or 2 or even 3 silver large shims (check the clearence yourself, no car are the same) in between the 2nd spur and 1st spur gear........again, the idea is to increase the clearence between that 2 spur gears.

At the end, it should clear all the clearence problem.....it won't line up PERFECTLY (it never will cause these are MUGEN clutch for MUGEN car)...but it will work.

One more then, you have to shave off some plastic from the rear suspension mount in order to fit the Mugen clutch thrust bearing spacer....I am talking about item #2275.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Since we are talking about Centax on NTC3, I want to ask some opinion....I have the Mugen one with 21/28 along with 54/48......I did not play with the car enough to fine tune it, but I have rear traction problem since the first day I have the centax one....the thing is, we have a parking lot track and have several 180 turns (or close to 180)....everytime after the turn and ready to step on the gas, the car spun out...EVERYTIME at the same spot.

That spot does not have grease or oil on the surface...the track is spray, other cars has no problem except me.....
At first, I was using the 18TZ......and thought the engine is too big and too powerfull on the NTC3....so I replaced it with the roar legal Mugen X12.....now, exact the same problem....

I fixed the problem that day by running 30 shore rear.........totally a cheating fix, but at least I can do my 15 minutes race..........my setting has nothing wrong before (when using 2 shoes or MIP clutch)..........

My guess.....the CENTAX.

My feeling is....there are too much torque generated by the centax when the first gear engaged....that caused the spin out...........I replaced the clutch to the typical 2 shoes for this weekend, so I will see is that the centax problem for the spun out....but for those who used centax or anytype of centax, what is your thought..? Or anyway I can fix my problem?

I have set my clutch spring collet to the far outside area...that is = engage sooner and smoother with the LEAST punch, I cannot not lossen it up more.....if I turn in the collet more, engage later with higher RPM, I am afraid that will only get worst....

AndyT ©

I`d guess by the way youve described it, that the centax clutch has ben set too heavy....as a result its carrying a heap of RPM when it engages and this is resulting in the spin/traction prob.
Other than setting it lighter thru less spring tension (going by your post it looks like you already have it set as soft as possible?), you could possibly try a lighter spring to give you more leeway to have it engage earlier in the RPM.