R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Like Tree6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-21-2011, 12:22 AM   #5836
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 116
Default

ordred the last wc in australia to day
rufazz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2011, 05:15 AM   #5837
Tech Adept
 
NikoRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 139
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-nicest View Post
When using the opt 20t alu pulley be sure to rotate your diff so that the guiding side walls are on opposite sides. That will keep the belt from wondering off and damaging the teeth...
Are you sure for what you said? I've already tried to rotate the diff but doing that the brake pulley and the diff pulley are no more aligned.

If you see the rear differential pulley is left-position by approximately 1mm or more and so, rotating it will move too much to the right...

However the belt should not come out because the composite right-bulkhead will stop it (the belts will bump to the rear downward multiflex connection)
__________________
NICOLA PEZZOTTI - italian F1 cat. driver - Serpent 747 - HIPEX exhaust system - HOTRACE tyres - SANWA M11X
NikoRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2011, 07:04 PM   #5838
Tech Fanatic
 
D-nicest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NY, New York
Posts: 872
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NikoRacing View Post
Are you sure for what you said? I've already tried to rotate the diff but doing that the brake pulley and the diff pulley are no more aligned.

If you see the rear differential pulley is left-position by approximately 1mm or more and so, rotating it will move too much to the right...

However the belt should not come out because the composite right-bulkhead will stop it (the belts will bump to the rear downward multiflex connection)
Yes I'm positive, I've tried it and been running it ever since like that without having belt issues. U have to mount the pulley as close to the 2 speed as you can while still being in the groove on the shaft. Also I promise they sit in line with each other, I wouldn't recommend it unless I knew it worked
__________________
Diatta Collymore [email protected]([email protected])(www.fordhamhobbies.com) (Wallacemotorsports.net) Fordham Hobbies, Wallace Motorsports, WRC Racing, Hot Race Tyres, Ielasi Tuned Engines, VP Power Master fuel, KO Propo America, Paint By Mikey Mike
D-nicest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 10:47 AM   #5839
Tech Elite
 
JLock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,453
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NikoRacing View Post
What you say it's true but there are some parts that xray doesn't make. I'm talking about composite differential gears for example or different brake pads. Or if you see many of the xray (but also other brands) drivers use Sirio clutches because them are simply better or for they prefer them to the original one.

I'm looking for some titanium parts and I'm obliged to look at non-xray parts because the factory does not work on this material.
I've already heard about the low quality of the 3Racing titanium but as Riketsu said the shoe older hasn't a particular wear and so I think it's worth to try it.

Yesterday I tried out the new aluminium 2-speed belt pulley 20t (335910) and the best tip I can give you it's not to use it with soft-belts as them will trend to work all moved to the right. And finally you will race with a belt that run only for the half of his width on the diff pulley and the same on the brake pulley. Mounting a standard 5,5x177 reinforced belt will solve you all the problems.
I already wanted to revert to the standard belts due to the non-rielability of the soft ones (talking about the rear) and this is good for me

(sorry for my bad english...but I want to help you guys despite the "difficulty" of writing in another language)

bye
I hear you. I run many of my cars pretty much stock and when my driving head is right, am pretty competitive with the racers in my area. I have tried some 3racing stuff in the past with 50/50 results. This is why I try to stay with OEM parts for the cars that I run as much as I can. Good luck to you with your mods.
__________________
Texas 5
It's not what you know; it's what you can prove.
The only thing that is for sure is that nothing is for sure!!!
The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one.
There are 2 things in life that are infinite: the universe and stupidity.
JLock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 11:17 AM   #5840
GEO
Tech Initiate
 
GEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 48
Send a message via MSN to GEO
Default

Hi, i want some help for the High Dynamic centax.
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
__________________
Xray NT1 | RB modified NDS TECH | Hot Race | ORCAN | FUTABA
FANATIX MODELS - TEAM XRAY GREECE - RB PRODUCTS
GEO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 11:46 AM   #5841
Tech Master
 
Drew Ellis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The LOU
Posts: 1,935
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GEO View Post
Hi, i want some help for the High Dynamic centax.
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
Your gap is to much. On Ralph's car we run .4 to .5 gap. The spring is RCAmerica spring and I start it out at .5mm preload. We run the new red pad, and I put the 4mm set screws in the flyweights.

Hope that helps.

Thanks Drew
__________________
RCAMERICA-Xray-Hudy-GravityRC-Kopropo-PROLEVELRC-Team EAM-ORCA-P1Brand-AVID-ProlevelRC Raceway-MOTIV-Max Power America-SRC America
Drew Ellis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 12:02 PM   #5842
Tech Elite
 
Riketsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Riketsu
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GEO View Post
Hi, i want some help for the High Dynamic centax.
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
Like Drew says...

0.4-0.5mm gap

I always start with around 0.75mm preload and adjust until the clutch starts slipping. Then I back out 1/4th of a full turn and that should be the spot.

I also use the small set screws in the shoe and have found that this produces a more aggressive clutch. Also, the red shoe is a great improvement over the white or yellow.

You should also take a look at the XRAY hard spring for the clutch. I have had trouble helping others with their clutches and always have found the problem to be in the spring being too soft.

Check these springs:
-RCAmerica Spring
-Xray HARD Spring
-Shepherd VCC Spring
-Mugen MSR Hard Spring

All of them are very good springs. Careful with the MSR spring, a friend of mine bought one recently and found it was too long to fit the clutch... But I believe this was just a bad batch or something went wrong with it.
__________________
eBay user id: riketsukirai
Riketsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 02:28 PM   #5843
GEO
Tech Initiate
 
GEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 48
Send a message via MSN to GEO
Default

Thank you for the answers. I will try all of this...
__________________
Xray NT1 | RB modified NDS TECH | Hot Race | ORCAN | FUTABA
FANATIX MODELS - TEAM XRAY GREECE - RB PRODUCTS
GEO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 02:38 PM   #5844
Tech Master
 
Troy Mckune's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 1,690
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default 2010 WCE or 2011

Drew or others,

I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?

Thanks,

Troy
__________________
Mckune Design / facebook page / RC America / XRAY / Lunsford Racing
Mckune Design is a custom manufacturer of CNC machined carbon fiber, G10, & composite laminate parts for RC, Aerospace, medical, and high tech industries.
Troy Mckune is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 03:40 PM   #5845
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 116
Default

Troy i was in the same delima here in australia i cold only track down one wc left so i bit the bullett just in case the 11 was a long way of arriving on inspection the chassis is the only diffrence so id say grab the wc and later buy the chassis
i dont think it would make dick all diffrence unless you are are tq now any ways and i gather not since you wont to switch camps
rufazz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 04:20 PM   #5846
Tech Addict
 
bfong13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 611
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
Drew or others,

I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?

Thanks,

Troy
I could be wrong, and maybe others who know will chime in, but I think the only difference between the NT1'10 and the NT1'11 is the chassis. I don't believe that the NT1'11 comes with all of the light weight WC parts, so, IMO, I would get the NT1 WC edition.
bfong13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2011, 06:08 AM   #5847
GEO
Tech Initiate
 
GEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 48
Send a message via MSN to GEO
Default New RB T11 RS

Drew thaks again for your informations,I would like thow to ask you what is your opinion about the new RB engine T11 rs,and what kind of sedax you would build for this kind of engine in order to get the maximum performance.

consider that in greece the tracks have low to medium grip,and the temperature at this period is up to 18-20 degrees...

Thank you in advance.
__________________
Xray NT1 | RB modified NDS TECH | Hot Race | ORCAN | FUTABA
FANATIX MODELS - TEAM XRAY GREECE - RB PRODUCTS
GEO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2011, 07:28 AM   #5848
Tech Master
 
Drew Ellis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The LOU
Posts: 1,935
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
Drew or others,

I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?

Thanks,

Troy
We have some in stock at RCAmerica (WE). I would go with that. The 11 only has a new chassis compared to the 10. I think the WE is the best buy as it comes with everything you will need. A few guys have just bought the WE car and are just going to buy the chassis when we have it in stock.

Thanks Drew
__________________
RCAMERICA-Xray-Hudy-GravityRC-Kopropo-PROLEVELRC-Team EAM-ORCA-P1Brand-AVID-ProlevelRC Raceway-MOTIV-Max Power America-SRC America
Drew Ellis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2011, 07:30 AM   #5849
Tech Master
 
Drew Ellis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The LOU
Posts: 1,935
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GEO View Post
Drew thaks again for your informations,I would like thow to ask you what is your opinion about the new RB engine T11 rs,and what kind of sedax you would build for this kind of engine in order to get the maximum performance.

consider that in greece the tracks have low to medium grip,and the temperature at this period is up to 18-20 degrees...

Thank you in advance.
I would build it just like I said, but the only thing you may want to play with is the pad with low bite the yellow may work better. But I would try the red for sure and see.

The engine seems to be OK. I think the best RB's are done by Murnan.

Thanks Drew
__________________
RCAMERICA-Xray-Hudy-GravityRC-Kopropo-PROLEVELRC-Team EAM-ORCA-P1Brand-AVID-ProlevelRC Raceway-MOTIV-Max Power America-SRC America
Drew Ellis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2011, 08:48 AM   #5850
Tech Fanatic
 
Osiris 75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Converse, TX
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
We have some in stock at RCAmerica (WE). I would go with that. The 11 only has a new chassis compared to the 10. I think the WE is the best buy as it comes with everything you will need. A few guys have just bought the WE car and are just going to buy the chassis when we have it in stock.

Thanks Drew
Will they be making a 4mm chassis as well? Thanks...
__________________
SPONSORS: AWESOMATIX USA / HOBBYWING USA / AVID CONCEPTS / R1 WURKS / POWERMASTER FUELS (VP RACING) / 2MM DESIGNS
RC TARGET/CAPRICORN USA / REFLEX RACING / ULTI TIRES

Chris Kemper
Osiris 75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS - NEW !!!! XRAY NT18T and XRAY NT18 plus HUDY micro truck starter box w/ battery Omarko Australia For Sale/Trade 2 06-25-2008 08:47 PM
Xray T2, Brushed Motor Combo, Setup Tools, Xray Springs, Bodies etc... GroffBall R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 13 09-23-2007 08:53 PM
WTB: NIB Xray T1FK05 & Xray Teflon coated aluminum Shock Body Adam.A Australia Wanted to Buy 4 01-02-2007 03:30 PM
WTB: Xray T1FK05 & Xray Teflon coated aluminum Shock Body Adam.A R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 12-30-2006 03:26 PM
XRAY sedan spring kit / XRAY multi-diff / PRS 114t spur / RR 64p pinions / Stratus evostyle R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 6 12-19-2006 09:33 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:44 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net